The Official Work Pictures Thread

She’s worried her willow is getting too big. Wants it reduced. I have no exp with them. Not really a trimmer. Looks healthy and ok to me.

What say ye?

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It can take up to a year for carbohydrates to leave large wood, so kinda like temporaly wringing the towel.
Also large aspect ratio cuts like that have far less sap wood for wound closure.
After not too long the tree will begin showing a more defined branch collar and begin closing on its own, like deadwood in the forest.
Later can take the stubs off….

Or maybe they are intentional heading cuts to produce sprouts, or had to take the limbs for a new building…

I think of large stubs as a decay fuse……. Far from the trunk…. Cause big wood is more heart wood than sap wood and depending on sps can have a tough time closing.

Or maybe knot.

You're absolutely right—here's a clear example of #1, made 10 years ago (approximately; I can't label every tree anymore, but you can see the result). #2 is a cut made in March this year. I hope everyone understands that this will be #1 in the coming years. IMG_5685.jpeg
 
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View attachment 147160I have some questions about Biggun work on September 14th. Do you think this was the right decision? P.S. I think I was fired from my job as the Top-arborist in St. Petersburg right after that! )Or the next day, for sure!) P.S. After this, as a radical arborist, I must commit hara-kiri with a chainsaw and die in agony, thinking about the irreparable damage I caused to defenseless trees!) Of course, this is all fantasy, but I'm interested in any opinion...

Well it depends which school of thought you follow.

The cuts in the property side were live growth and very extended limbs. Those cuts are target pruning cuts aka Shigo et al.

The stubs at the back were what were called stag horned. Stone dead rock hard wood. I reduced them back to the stub left as there are laws in Norway regarding mature oaks. The removed deadwood should be stacked close to the tree for the biodiversity. I left them on in case a ‘do gooder’ complains. Eg I removed the wood that was in danger of taking out power lines or landing on the public footpath behind the tree. No need to take the stubs off as the tree will have already compartmentalised itself so why open it up to new pathogens?

Any more questions?

I will finish by saying the tree had multiple fungi present on the main leaders near the lower unions. Hence the cut back and weight reduction over the property.
 
You're absolutely right—here's a clear example of #1, made 10 years ago (approximately; I can't label every tree anymore, but you can see the result). #2 is a cut made in March this year. I hope everyone understands that this will be #1 in the coming years.View attachment 147173

Now I am confused.

So what is the official critique of the work in the Oak tree?

I am not quite sure what you are getting at.

Are you saying I should have used flush cuts on the oak tree?

Discussion is good.
 
Everything is different that how is was when last cut.


Use the past cuts as guidelines for current cuts IF they were good cuts to start.





Specify % crown removal (10'25%, 25-35%, 35-50%)

deadwood size (1/2"+, 1" +, 2", if longer than 6" long, 1', 2'.)
I have finessed a showpiece purple-leaf, lacy Japanese maple at a customer's front door, definitely spending more than 30 minutes on white/ gray deadwood noticeably smaller in diameter than a matchstick.
A backyard doug-fir is more of : all deadwood below 70' larger than 2"+ diameter and more than 5' long

Live pruning wound size,
~70% of crown removal will result from pruning cuts under 3" diameter, ~30% will be under 1" diameter.




Specify if asymmetrical (more reduction on house side)



Draw a sketch, marking reduction instead of hat-racking.

Indicate reduction cuts as as thinning (removal to origin) or reduction (partial removal to a lateral branch) or heading (stub/ pollard style inducing). When reducing to a lateral, you may need to prune the lateral to direct growth.



Have them make a sketch of their image, if helpful.


Give a ring if you like.
 
Flare depth is decent.

Small girdling roots in front? Small screen, here.


Small thinning cuts and light reduction, a bit heavier reduction on the house side.
Probably lots of small dead wood (a pole knocks lots loose, quickly).

Go back in 2-3 years to quickly groom and maintain it.





You're welcome up here for a climbing trip/ training...spare bedroom.
 
Everything is different that how is was when last cut.


Use the past cuts as guidelines for current cuts IF they were good cuts to start.





Specify % crown removal (10'25%, 25-35%, 35-50%)

deadwood size (1/2"+, 1" +, 2", if longer than 6" long, 1', 2'.)
I have finessed a showpiece purple-leaf, lacy Japanese maple at a customer's front door, definitely spending more than 30 minutes on white/ gray deadwood noticeably smaller in diameter than a matchstick.
A backyard doug-fir is more of : all deadwood below 70' larger than 2"+ diameter and more than 5' long

Live pruning wound size,
~70% of crown removal will result from pruning cuts under 3" diameter, ~30% will be under 1" diameter.




Specify if asymmetrical (more reduction on house side)



Draw a sketch, marking reduction instead of hat-racking.

Indicate reduction cuts as as thinning (removal to origin) or reduction (partial removal to a lateral branch) or heading (stub/ pollard style inducing). When reducing to a lateral, you may need to prune the lateral to direct growth.



Have them make a sketch of their image, if helpful.


Give a ring if you like.

Is this in relation to the willow in San Diego or the work we were discussing on the Oak tree?
 
Those are quite flush, no collar or branch bark ridge left.

I would think biology would supersede culture or tradition.

Are we again referring to the Oak?

I can assure you they were no where near flush cuts.

The camera may make them look but the collar was visible and pruning cut in accordance.
 
Eder powerwich
 
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Worked on this beast most of the week. I called the boss when I got there and told him the estimate was FUBAR and to clear out my week. The pics don’t show the true path of the wires. Also forgot to get a pic when we showed up. Almost two days of the dreaded cut and throw method till we had enough height to rig efficiently. Even then it was still small. To top it off it rained for three days. Finished the spar and clean up today. Company lost its ass on this job.
 
Good pics!

2 days of cut and chuck?!?!? Yikes!!

Who bid that monster?

How do you like the terex with one knuckle cylinder instead of the older 2 cylinder?
 
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