Unusual straight face and particularly thick wave, quite deep water swells suddenly hitting a shallow reef. Emphasis on shallow, injuries are quite common there. In the very least, more people should be wearing head protection.
The wave looked like it could pummel you pretty good if you screwed up. Looked like on a couple runs, the guy just kicked back into the wave. Probably safer to just end the ride and try to get behind it again.
I watched an old man once doing the exact same thing, except he had his wife holding the ladder beneath him with one hand while she held their grandbaby in her other arm.
Things I get in my email....
It will work if you click on it.
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