The MS150 Has Arrived

[Cut4fun]

Keeping it or selling it?

Might be selling the 340T with muffler mod and primer bulb bypass instead.

Little more time will tell.

 

[Cut4fun]

Was at 2 different dealers yesterday. Neither had a 150T on the shelf and looked at me weird when I ask about them.

1 did have the 1/8" file guide kit I wanted. But only the file it came with.
The other had sets of 3 1/8 " files but gouged on the price of them. Paid the extra so I hand them on hand till I get a dozen.

Dont seem they carry much for these little chains.
Going to compare my old stihl 1/4" chains I have from guessing 80's 90's to this new stuff.

 

[Bermy]

I had to work with the big line clearance outfit the other day. Chap about 6"2' got in the bucket...with a 150t. The council guy watching was sneering at the size of it, until the bloke happily cut off a 12' stub of elm...I smiled

 

[MasterBlaster]

Egg in their face!

 

[Cut4fun]

These things come set to lean IMHO. You can hear them hitting the rev limited coil. That isnt four stroking your hearing if you think you are.

If you did a muffler mod guaranteed your hitting limiter.

Much better. Drilled the pin out of the epa stop in the H side metal shroud. Was making it to lean and hitting rev limiter on the coil. Prefer my saws tuned fatter then their pinned epa stop allowed.

 

[Magnus]

Not familiar with this 150. Not sure what you mean with pin, can you show me better?

To hear difference in limiter or four-stroke is not so easy all times. Some saws its very hard some ears don't hear difference.
Its hard to explain other than the tone is different.

Most saws today run too lean to get thru the exoust demands. Once set right they perform better, last longer and use less gas.
If you get them in a box and test them when they run right, they will not meet the values set. Did this a couple times with 357's to test.

 

[Cut4fun]

Not my pics but here is where to drill for pin.

 

[DMc]

Cool, thanks for that!

 

[Magnus]

Is this one of those with a metal ring to push in? I don't think I have seen this carb limiter were you need to drill to get more.

 

[Cut4fun]

Is this one of those with a metal ring to push in? I don't think I have seen this carb limiter were you need to drill to get more.

Nope that would have been to easy if they would have used that style.

The pin stops the H from going any richer. Have to drill it out to allow full adjustment.
Guess it could stop you going any leaner too. But didnt go that way.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

The H screw is completely hidden inside the carb. What you see to put the screwdriver on is a false screw which engages the real screw deeper in the carb. This false screw has slots molded in it. The end of the little aluminum pin is inserted in one of the slots, so you can't turn the screw beyond that. After drilling the pin, take care to take out the false screw in order to remove the shavings and the residual bit. Put it back to set the screw and to keep the setting.

 

[Magnus]

Well explained! Even I understand it.
They are pretty inventive to try to get carbs to harder to adjust.
It must be a great deal of money in this as the costs are pretty great in changes.
Found this on guurgle

 

[SkwerI]

I just picked up another one of these today. List is $519 and my dealer charged me $478. Fortunately I picked it up dry, they had not fueled it or started it. I prefer it that way.

First thing I did was put it on my bench and open up the muffler. Then I addressed a few issues that have plagued every one of these saws that I've bought. I tightened up the screw that holds the ground wire for the kill switch, I tightened the bar stud, and I blew out the oil tank and oiler pump with compressed air before filling the tank.

Then I took the saw out to my wood pile and fired it up. After letting it run about 20 seconds I threw it full bore into a half dozen 10" cuts in an oak log. I think I got the rings seated ok. Hopefully this will be my strongest one yet, feels good so far.

 

[Bermy]

Sounds good Brian!

I had mine out for the big peppermint removal yesterday...it met its match finally. Anything over about 3"...the bark on that stuff just squeezes shut on your bar as soon as you start to cut it, and it's like an inch thick!
The 1/4 chain really struggled, 3/8 might have helped.
Had to switch to the 200, which finally got a workout after normally being sidelined for the 150.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

Indeed, the tinny kerf is a problem in the fibrous woods or in the compressed areas like the reaction wood in the conifers.
I have to found the little mass screw to tighten it, jerking the saw isn't no more enough to stop it. The choke works well for that but that sucks to fire it up again.

I just bought too a new one "just in case".

 

[Marc-Antoine]

Found it. Well, actually, it isn't a little screw but a big one holding the case. And it wasn't at fault. The culprit is the mass wire cut in two places, just at the bottom of the handle. The cover is softened and the copper wires oxidized. I wonder if that's an other side effect of the canola oil.

 

[Bermy]

'Mass wire?'

 

[Burnham]

I think that might translate to "ground wire" for us colonials, Fi.

 

[Bermy]

'Kay, thanks

 

[Marc-Antoine]

Yes, that's what I mean.
I think that "Ground" would be dedicated to the collect of undesired electricity, as in the lightening protection or a leak in a household appliance.
"Mass" is the main metallic structure of a machine (electrically-wise) or return part on an electric board.
At least for me... and in french

 

[forestkeepers]

As to the loudness issue...

Just saying you use hearing protection doesn't address the issue. Think of it this way...the very best pro offers db reduction of around 30, some a little better. Many are less, in the mid 20's. And that's for optimal conditions, which are often not really achievable in the field all the time. So if a stock saw produces 100 db, then your ears are getting around 70-80 db. Pretty good protection.

Now, if you tweak that puppy and in so doing it produces 25 more db, then your ears with ppe on are assaulted by the the same level of sound that you'd have without protection running the saw stock. That will damage you over time, I promise.

Our helmets have 3M Peltor X4P3 earmuffs integrated. They show as 33 dB SNR, especially blocking 37-40dB in the 1000-8000Hz ranges (lower frequency deep hums, not as much). I tremendously value my hearing and want to hear my children & grandchildren, so I'm taking hearing protection seriously!

 

[stig]

Best thing we have done when it comes to protecting our ears is buying custom molded plugs.
Not cheap, about $200 a pair, but since they are molded after one's ear canal, they firt perfectly, so after a minute one forgets all about them.
With a pair of helmet ear muffs on top, the world is silent!

We run saws all day during logging season, this really helps a lot.

Wish I had been able to get those when I started, then my hearing might not be shot.

 

[pantheraba]

Is that the Elacin RC?

I have been perusing their website. I assume we want the one for military and EMS?

They say "Our Elacin RC range of hearing protectors is ideal for workplace situations in which speech and alarm signals must be perfectly audible at all times."

 

[SkwerI]

And the MS150 is the quietest gas powered saw I have ever used. Seems this thread has wandered quite a ways off the path. I keep checking it expecting discussion about the MS150.

 

[forestkeepers]

Seems this thread has wandered quite a ways off the path..

I noticed we tend to do that around here
[Holds hand up as one guilty...]