The MS150 Has Arrived

Hey yall,

I have been running my 150 for awhile now and i love it. I only did the muffler mod, it ran really well for awhile but now its running crappy.

I did not tune the carb at all after the muffler mod, it seems to be flooding it self out, i am running 40:1 which might not be helping i guess??? but its non ethanol fuel and wasnt that old. Just thought i would ask you all.

Thanks!!




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No not at all, if it idles then I go to make a cut it bogs before I can throttle it up. Sometimes just stalls out too and its horrible to start again.

Late to the party here. Sounds like the low end screw is set a tad rich. I'd turn the L screw in (clockwise) about 1/8-1/4 turn and see how that works.

I have three of these saws. They are my primary weapon of choice. On removals I'll take a 150 and a 200 up with me to start. I hang my 200 on the side of the bucket and run the 150 until I start getting into bigger wood or it runs out of gas. Then I'll run the 200 until I stop for fuel.

Two of mine have had the oiling issue mentioned by some here. I've taken the bar off and run the saw, no oil coming out of the case. I'll use the air hose to blow a little air into the oiler hole and it starts oiling again. Looks like I will need to try Fiona's trick of washing the tank out with gas.

For those of you who need to run the chain loose, I think this oiler issue is what causes that. My chain gets super tight when the oiler acts up.

I also have had one saw start with the kill switch issue. I already took it apart once and didn't find the problem. Can somebody tell me which screw exactly is the one you tightened to fix the kill switch? (mentioned several pages back in this thread)

The first MS150 I bought I fired it up and it wouldn't cut a 4" limb in stock form. I immediately turned it off, took off the side cover and removed the muffler screen. Then I stuck the screwdriver end of my scrench into the muffler exhaust hole and twisted it back and forth a few times. Reassembled the saw and went back to work. The saw ran much better and would cut 8" limbs with ease. My next two saws I did the same mod before putting fuel in them the first time.
 
A shout out to Fi for compelling me to do what I've needed to do for a long time. Yesterday I was trimming 22 small oaks at an industrial park and my oiler stopped working again. I opened the oil cap and dumped it out right there (nasty industrial waste everywhere, not like I was polluting sacred ground) and poured a little mix gas into the tank. Swished it around and dumped it, then refilled with oil. Cross my fingers, it worked perfectly the rest of the day. Hopefully that's the last of that foolishness.

Since it happened from the first tank of fuel when I bought the saw, and it has happened to so many, I imagine manufacturing trash left in the tank. Maybe now I can replace that burned up bar with a new one.
 
I've always been very careful about not getting crud into the tanks in the first place, so in 40 years I've never had to flush out a gas or oil tank on any piece of equipment. Always figured only people who screw up in the first place need to do that. Silly thought process but then we all have our quirks. But I finally broke through my resistance although you might notice I blamed it on the manufacturer.
;)

And I don't think I would ever rinse out an oil tank before storage. Oil prevents corrosion. Clean, unprotected metal will end up pitted and corroded whereas oily metal is just oily.
 
Some bar/chain oils have a shelf life. I've heard of bar oil subject to repeated extreme cold getting stringy. Cleaning a tank isn't without some merit in some cases. The book mentioning pre-storage draining was an old repair manual, so maybe in days past oil going bad was much more prevalent. It also said to wrap the bar in oiled paper (who does that?), so pretty thorough.
 
Some of the cheaper versions of canola oil, have a tandency to harden/gum up.

I try to keep Canola oil out of the saws that don't see much use, such as the MS 880 for that reason.
 
Glad it worked Brian :)

I fixed an MS250 oiler problem by a squirt of compressed air back through the oil tank breather (while it was empty!) ...and yes one does wonder with some saws if it isn't manufacturing debris, particularly when it happens not long after purchase.
 
Well it was a temporary fix. :cry:

Took the saw apart again this morning. Broke it all the way down to remove the oiler pump. While I was in there I found the screw holding the ground wire tab and it was completely loose and stripped out. Found a slightly larger screw to replace it so now my kill switch will work at least. Removed the oil pump and cleaned it all out, then reassembled. It works for now, but a squirt of air will also make it work for a little while. I'll need to run it a day or two to see if it's fixed for good. Next step will be replacing the cheap plastic oil pump I guess.
 
The gumming of the canola oil is it's biggest downside, at least the one I use. It's more stable than some other bio oils like sunflower though.
If a chain (rocked) stays on the shelf for a good time, it becomes completely rigid. Same with a chainsaw, the oil pump can't work anymore, its piston is literally glued inside.
I have 5 chainsaws waiting for some repair. If I can't find a way to free them, that will cost me a lot.
 
Funny thing about biodegradable vegetable chain oil. The 16 liter cans used to be cheaper than petroleum stuff by about 30% where I buy, then the government regulated mandatory using it on public lands. Up there went the price of the vegetable by about 60%. Some kind of funny business.
 
Yes.
You can add that the fungi can very well deal with that if there is some wood to eat as the main menu. It isn't like there is no more wood at all left after a cut:/:

But I agree to avoid the mineral oil next to the water, ponds, rivers ... We can clearly see the spots spreading on the water from all the oil droplets. A lot of small organisms living near and on the water surface depend of the hydrophilic/ hydrophobic properties. Adding some oil there sure make a mess and put them in big trouble.
Small amount of bio oil doesn't seem to act like that, from what I have seen.
 
Bio is mandatory here if one wants to log on state forest land.

That is the only reason we use it.
 
My 201 has had oiler issues from day one. Part of the problem is that the oiler hose in the tanks gets hung up and won't lay in the bottom. I never think about it when it's not being used so it hasn't been fixed yet...
 
Canola is about the price of petroleum, and way cheaper than a lung. I use it in my climbing saws as I'm routinely not burying the saw and cutting right near the air intake system (mouth and nose) to take in the spray.

I haven't had problems with it. As Marc-Antoine said, it doesn't store well. If things are used regularly, I've had no problem.


I've had long-hung chains rust, even with petro oil. I did a petro oil dip in a bin, and rehung.
 
Well, I got myself another 150tc the other day. My old one had an issue with the coil lead so it missed the bus bringing all my stuff out to Norway. As I was without for the first couple of weeks I splashed out. I thought the first day to run it stock.

Sod that, the minute I got home out came the drill again. This time mine had a similar setup to the US saws, in that I could remove the deflector with a screw. There was no spark arrester in there though. I just drill a pilot hole in the side and then enlarged it with a standard drill bit. Exhaust was off the saw BTW.

This thing rips now. BUT we already knew that. It has amazed a couple of the guys who were taking the piss out of the size of it.
 
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