Tap and die thread

An alloy steel socket head in 5/8" 18 by 21/4" is about 2 bucks a pop McMaster -Carr . I don't see how you could break the head off of one .A soft grade like a grade 2 or maybe 5 but not on an 8 that size .That alloy is rated at 170.000 PSI.
 
I think the worse stuck I ever saw were the center turret bolts on a Hi-Ranger bucket truck we were changing the booms on ,I don't remember if they were 3/4 or 1"Had a big ratchet with a 10 foot length of pipe and three guys breaking those loose .
Damned oak sawdust will do a number on that stuff too .I had to weld a bunch of patches on the frame on that old GMC to keep it in service and about 3 engines over the years . He finally had enough money to buy a diesel from Davey tree service and as far as I know never had a problem with it .I got real tired of working on that 1974 Jimmey about every 2 or 3 months .
 
An alloy steel socket head in 5/8" 18 by 21/4" is about 2 bucks a pop McMaster -Carr . I don't see how you could break the head off of one .A soft grade like a grade 2 or maybe 5 but not on an 8 that size .That alloy is rated at 170.000 PSI.
Stump grinders love to break shit in spectacular fashion. Especially higher HP machines.
 
With oak it's most likely the tannic acid. I'd have to research to actually find out how it breaks down metals .The 48" bar on the avatar saw would turn black when used on oak which is about all it's been used on .You damned sure don't that big of a bar for normal use .
More times than not those bucket trucks start out life as being used by utility companies then as they age get replaced then tree companies,painters etc get them and run them until they are worn out .With a chip box those chips get blown every where ,rust out the spring shackles etc ..Hit a bump in the road with a load of chips and twang goes the spring . Then you've got a big problem .Nobody thinks to inspect things every so often and nip it in the bud .
 
I've read that too and it is confusing .Back to those stuck drum bolts .Another thing I've done it use a hand impact device to break them free .With a big hammer you can get a tremendous amount of impact torque with these things plus they don't cost that much .
 
Tannic acid forms a complex with the ferrous atoms and take them out. That's what gives the dark color. Chesnut is very good at it too.
 
They are brutally effective. I have an old school one where you hit the end too, it's a smaller one and works great for screws, so you don't strip the head out when removing them.
 
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  • #64
I tried to hit it with a chisel on the outer edge to turn it but no luck, not enough purchase, it too flush.
 
Maybe you could grind a slot in the end of the flush broken bolt and use a hand impact like Al and Kyle are talking about. With a small cutoff wheel or dremel.
 
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  • #66
The dremel is a good idea, I think I'll try that

Btw I don't capiche what tool they are taking about
 
I’m speaking from experience, I have a cheap one too. Was in a box of junk from an auction. Looking to get some good bits.

“Hit it with an O2 lever it'll come apart I promise.”

You spelled “gas axe” wrong...lol :D

Dad told me more than once experience is what you get when you don’t get what you wanted.
 
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Late to the thread. I think I spotted this but in case not - dremel a slot for a chisel/flat impact blade and use heat/oils to help. Impact means the hammer-it one. I've always had welded nubs/nuts just break off.

I once had bolt plenty yielded that matched no thread size anymore. Parts spec and new stuff at that point. Another time two sections of the same bolt had different thread pitches.
 
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