t540 xp

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Looks like flippy caps for the T540 ( work like stihls) or do they unscrew with tool less flip up?


t540xp.jpg
 
Hope so. Stihl's caps are for the birds.

Reg, now on Vancouver Island, heard that some have the 540 up there, and that it is vastly better than the 201, and an improvement over the 338!

Time for Husky to take the lead from Stihl, perhaps. The 562 clearly is the best of all the new breed saws.
 
For some reason the flippy caps on this let me down some. I sure hope they are much improved over the Stihl design. Can they realy be that much faster to open? I keep asking my dealer when but he knew less than me.:banghead:
 
Relax, guys. You may be jumping the gun. The pic makes it look like it's just a flip up lever to get a better grip on the cap, not a complex doodad like Stihl's crappy designed caps.
 
Relax, guys. You may be jumping the gun. The pic makes it look like it's just a flip up lever to get a better grip on the cap, not a complex doodad like Stihl's crappy designed caps.

I am betting on it being a flip up to help unscrew the cap tool less. I just watched a video in March 2012 and it still had the husky screw in new style caps.

Also T540 will be at the KY Expo in Oct.
 
I was at my Husqvarna dealer this morning and had a T540XP in my hands. Looks really nice but gonna wait a bit to buy one.
I have to say that what I said here last year may not have been a 540 but one of those rebadged RedMaxs. Funny I would screw up on this seeing I'm really into detail:D
I guess I was a little rushed that morning and my dealer doesn't know his product fully, only the big ticket items like pontoon boats , bikes and snowmachines.
 
Never thought I'd be leaning this way, but if the 201T continues to display generally doggish tendencies, I'd try one.
 
I'd be interested as well, but at $639 projected full retail, I'd think twice. Especially since Bob (spike60 on AS) can still get me the 2139T for $400. They cost him $50 less than the orange version, which retails at $500. He probably sells them for $450. (the 338) And, IMO, as most know, I love the saws. They have no lingering problems from the early saws, save for still needing to be choked when hot--just a fair bit sooner than other saws. A minor problem not worth killing the deal. With a ported muffler they have quite a bit more torque than the 200T's, and at least as fast a cutting speed, if not better.

The new saw also has that bulky rear carb area, which results in a small handle space....and means the saw, like the 200's, has less reach than the e-lux saws. Granted, this will give it better balance, similar to the 200's.
 
My dealer has one of those huskys we are speaking of. I was looking at it last week. My jonsered 2139 I bought last year has proven to be an excellent investment so far. I have absolutely nothing negative to say. If I muffler mod it, I know it will trump the 200t by a bit.
 
By all means, open up that muffler! Braze in a 9/16" i.d. port, placed just below the framework surrounding the existing port, facing downward at a good angle. Make hole in plastic cover to accommodate tube, which is best left quite short, so as not to stick out, which can get rather hot on the leg!
 
By all means, open up that muffler! Braze in a 9/16" i.d. port, placed just below the framework surrounding the existing port, facing downward at a good angle. Make hole in plastic cover to accommodate tube, which is best left quite short, so as not to stick out, which can get rather hot on the leg!

I've never brazed before. Otherwise is do it in a jiffy.
 
I've never brazed before. Otherwise is do it in a jiffy.

It is not that hard use a torch and heat the area to be brazed to a dull red glow and apply a fluxed brazing rod. It's very similar to soldering but at a much higher temp and for the best results make sure the parts fit tightly together with little or no gaps.
 
I must of got a good one. Once I figured out how to run it, it beats any 020/200 I've ever had in the cut.
 
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