Sweating the little things. Penny saved is a penny earned.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mick!
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Actually, Glyphosate is a very good treekiller, when applied right.
Just ask the guy who cut down the two last linden in an alley by a church, gave both stumps a liberal dose and killed half the alley because he hadn't thought of root grafting!

Linden is VERY sensitive to Roundup.
I got too near some with a tractor sprayer once, that is how I know.
 
Good way of generating more work!

I had a similar scenario a couple of years ago, except on white poplar. The trees were all protected, we felled two in the middle of the row, and ground the stumps. Being poplar, they there up lots of shoots from the surface roots. The consultant didn't want them treated in case of root grafts. In the end I treated the roots that I thought were lest likely to be interconnected, as far as I know the other trees in the row are still alive. Being poplar all the roots I treated are probably still alive too!
 
He actually ended up with a lawsuit and had to pay for killing those trees.
Bad deal.
 
Jed said:
.....Dave: I'm not trying to be an ass. The truth is that I actually have a quite vested interest in knowing whether the saw-gas will consistently work on large diameter Cottonwoods and such; but for a peculiar reason....
Click to expand...

No worries, Jed. That never entered my mind. Obviously the use of chainsaw fuel as a stump treatment is not a condoned practice. My wife even asked a department of agriculture person about this and the response was, there are somethings I don't need to know. This verified that chainsaw fuel is not sanctioned.
So really all I can tell you is that I may have used this a time or two and it did work. Even on poplars and willows.
 
Nope, this was a few years ago in the southern part of the country.
I met the guy when I took my "How to spray poison and kill everything without polluting our drinking water or making myself sterile at the same time" certificate.
We got to discussing Roundup as a stump killer and he told his tale.
I can't remember how much that ended up costing him, but it was a LOT.
 
No customer or Tree co. could EVER pay me enough to " "treat" stumps. Cut them low , cut the sprouts next year or two w mowing detail or even a re-cut ... Eventually you will win. F'n hate Roundup , if you need a license to apply commercially then why the hell is it on hardware store shelves for homeowners and unlicensed contractors ?????... Death to Monsanto !!!
 
Altissimus said:
No customer or Tree co. could EVER pay me enough to " "treat" stumps. Cut them low , cut the sprouts next year or two w mowing detail or even a re-cut ... Eventually you will win.
Click to expand...

Not if it's hazelnut, hawthorne, or sumac. Our property line is choked with those species, along with a mix of vinca, Oregon grape, english ivy, himalayan blackberry, and a plethora of other invasives. Roundup, Crossbow, or Speedzone wouldn't even phase that stuff. This year (after a 12 year fight) I discovered Garlon. Mixed it in a small spray bottle, made my cut, and immediately sprayed a little bit on the cambium. So far it has not re-sprouted on the hazelnut and sumac, but we'll see what happens next season.
 
I hear covering them with plastic, blocking sunlight, helps. I suggest to people to cover with black plastic, and bury in mulch for a year or two. If it doesn't work, they're out very little. Haven't gotten a verdict.
 
If you grind a stump will they sprout?

The spray pilot man misjudged the drift once and killed a stand of my cottonwoods. Tall healthy trees. Did not kill the grass or anything underneath. That was just drift, not a direct spraying at only 3 gallons per acre rate. That was dicamba and 2,4D.

Could it be better to kill the trees first and then remove them?
 
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FireFighterZero said:
If you grind a stump will they sprout?

The spray pilot man misjudged the drift once and killed a stand of my cottonwoods. Tall healthy trees. Did not kill the grass or anything underneath. That was just drift, not a direct spraying at only 3 gallons per acre rate. That was dicamba and 2,4D.

Could it be better to kill the trees first and then remove them?
Click to expand...

Some species can resprout, poplar, willow etc.
 
Standard on a removal with the stump being left was to checkerboard the stump with the saw, plunge cutting a good few inches or more on a big one and cutting a groove around the whole cambium layer. Than I would tell the homeowner to go at it with their poison of choice. I never once applied anything myself. Not licensed or insured for it. I don't do poison.

I always recommended more than one treatment with whatever they were going to use. First immediately afterwards and then two more times once their 'poison' had soaked in.
 
Same here. Just did some cottonwood removals. Final stump cuts last, letting the HO in immediately after the cut to apply whatever they did.
 
In the days before a lot of poison, I always used to see the guys 'crosscut' their stumps when culling invasives, like making an x's and o's board. On some trees it seems to work just on its own.
To be super sure, like my cliff tree removal job, we use Garlon. Way better than Roundup. The conservation guys use it mixed with diesel...way overkill IMO, just mix it with water, a bit stronger if you need to, but then there is no nasty greasy smelly residue left.
Lots of people use Tordon RTU (ready to use) blue stuff in a dripper bottle, but most of them never read the label, it's phytotoxic in the soil for up to a year, it is excreted in root exudates...its also available over the counter!!! Then they wonder why plants meters away look ropey after they use it.

Lots of people forget about volatilization on hot days too...even Roundup can evaporate on a hot day and affect off target stuff as it wafts around!

When trying to stump treat Mexican/Brazil Pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius) our #1 invasive in Bermuda, you had to get the chemical on the stump ASAP...wait even an hr and the results were patchy, probably that's why they started using diesel to cut the Garlon, something to get it soaked right into the wood and bark, just is so messy and stinky...hate it.
 
Altissimus said:
...if you need a license to apply commercially then why the hell is it on hardware store shelves for homeowners and unlicensed contractors ?
Click to expand...

Ours is the commercially concentrated stuff. The stuff for the homeowners is like one fiftht the strength.

Stig: I thought that God was paying you back for overcharging the Church folk. :lol:
 
Bermy, the diesel added to the diluted garlon acts as a fixidant. Otherwise after being mixed with just water it denatures, loosing about 70% of it's potency every 24 hours.
 
My experience with Garlon3 and Garlon4a was a while back. There was an colored oil-based something that it was mixed with. Was that just diesel, possibly? Diluted diesel?
 
Well there you go, I learned something today!
I only ever mixed and applied on the day though for my big casuarina job.

pete mctree said:
Bermy, the diesel added to the diluted garlon acts as a fixidant. Otherwise after being mixed with just water it denatures, loosing about 70% of it's potency every 24 hours.
Click to expand...
 
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