Stihl 088 carb problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Raj
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Is some kind of *metering thing dirty, or sticking?

*sorry for the technical jargon. Let me know, and I'll try to simplify it for you :^P


If you couldn't tell, I have little idea how small engines work aside from the broad overview, but if it's dumping fuel, it sounds like a stuck choke, or something that regulates fuel delivery.
 
That’s a nice saw vise but a tad on the pricey side ... $300 or $350 iirc ... I’m sure those handles contribute to the cost as they are quite expensive ... The Ol’folded burlap bag works for me
 
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  • #29
Is some kind of *metering thing dirty, or sticking?

*sorry for the technical jargon. Let me know, and I'll try to simplify it for you :^P


If you couldn't tell, I have little idea how small engines work aside from the broad overview, but if it's dumping fuel, it sounds like a stuck choke, or something that regulates fuel delivery.


I was really hoping it would fix itself. It didn't.
 
I don’t service/build any chainsaws on a washing machine @Nutball that’s just silly ... You must have gotten that misinformation from someone on the “other” forum ... let me guess ...OPE ?
 
I was really hoping it would fix itself. It didn't.
Have you tried screwing both needles in all the way and starting, then retune from there? I had a saw recently that was dumping fuel into the carb after running lean of all things. 5 minutes later on the bench and it had the intake tract overflowing out the carb. I had to go dump it all out.
 
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  • #36
Took the carb off, cleaned it all up, checked it over, I rebuilt it not long ago, still floods, am I missing something?
 
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  • #38
Going to try one off my other saw. It was a strong running saw till the crank broke. I did pressure test the carb, held 7psi no problems, I'm going to see what PSI it pops up at. Cylinder did make 100 PSI cold, but after pulling it so many times not sure if I had the strength to get it higher.
20200820_133532.jpg
 
I have gone to replacing carbs more than rebuild. I have found, more often than not, that things wear out, then you just cant seem to dial them in. Or like there is a little particle in just the wrong spot to screw with the flow of fuel. My time is worth money, carbs are cheap enough.
 
I have gone to replacing carbs more than rebuild. I have found, more often than not, that things wear out, then you just cant seem to dial them in. Or like there is a little particle in just the wrong spot to screw with the flow of fuel. My time is worth money, carbs are cheap enough.
The OEM STIHL 088 carbs ain’t cheep but I agree ... sometimes rebuild kits work , sometimes it’s a lot of time/aggravation messing around and all for naught! Any dealer is going to just slap on a new carb as the hourly rate they charge makes rebuilding a no go
 
By percentage to what that saw costs, they are cheap
My labor aint. I make more an hour than a saw shop charges. Except they take twice as long since the techs are often dumb as stumps. Cheaper for me to buy a carb and put it on in minutes, tune to my liking and move on and make money. Fuckin carb aint shit.
 
Going to try one off my other saw. It was a strong running saw till the crank broke. I did pressure test the carb, held 7psi no problems, I'm going to see what PSI it pops up at. Cylinder did make 100 PSI cold, but after pulling it so many times not sure if I had the strength to get it higher.
View attachment 103007
100 psi is too low ... Should have 140 psi + if bore / rings are good
 
I have gone to replacing carbs more than rebuild. I have found, more often than not, that things wear out, then you just cant seem to dial them in. Or like there is a little particle in just the wrong spot to screw with the flow of fuel. My time is worth money, carbs are cheap enough.
I also have surprisingly little luck rebuilding carbs. And if you pay a shop to rebuild the carb, the bill is more than the cost of a new carb in the box. So no more rebuild kits for me. If I can clean it out and it works, fine. If not then buy a new one.
 
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  • #46
I'll see what I can pump the cylinder up to tomorrow, when I get some strength back. The Stihl site says 110psi is the minimum.
 
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  • #49
Had a good rest, so the cold cylinder built up 130psi.

Carb pop off test at 14psi.

I did replace the pull cord, doesn't seem like I get a good pull length. Going to try a different one.
 
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  • #50
088 fired up today, adjusted the carb to keep it running, needs more adjustment.

Put on a new oil pump spur gear, assembled the rest of the drive side, topped off fuel and bar oil, saw fired to life, then floods out.

Yeah, I think I'll try another carb.

A little video of it actually running.

 
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