SNIPE

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woods ported usually = ported work saw for the woods.

Madsen's used to offer (or still does? ) "Power Tuned by Madsen's".
 
Lots of info on google. Mild port and polish, muffler mod, maybe some extra compression. Few threads here in the house also
 
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  • #56
oh man........i am dumb.............i was googling for a muffler port. no one had a woods port...............
 
The way that saw in the vid sounds at high rpm is like it is getting a higher revs count than just a muffler ported. Idles a bit in the attack mode too, to my ears. Lightened piston?
 
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  • #60
Question about setting up a block face........How do you create the height of the block at the apex? Do you bore in the height of the bar, or do you just come in lower (when using a humboldt) with the sloping cut and pound out the undercut?
 
Bust it out with an axe. Or bore the face in half (in front) and knock wedges in the cut, breaks it in half.

I've seen some guys bore the back of the block, but I don't think that is tradition.
 
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  • #62
yep.........so you're saying, don't meet the gunning cut with the sloping cut in the back, come in lower with the sloping cut, below the guning cut to create whatever height you need for the gap, then bust it out?
 
As FW said. Traditionally splitting it out is the way to go. As it leaves true and contiguous grain at the hinge for the tree to pull. Boring the corners to get the block out can interrupt the continuity of the grain and present a host of problems.

With that said I will add that in particularly twisty and knotty stumps I'll bore the corners sometimes, or render the block into finer slabs with one, two or more cross cuts. Then chip and split it out.

When ever I do elect to bore the corners I'll set a file or similar flat straight object into the curf of the undercut butted right up against the edge of it. Clean chips out first. Then leave enough sticking out that I can use as a guide to align the bar to,,, for the bore cut. When done with care a person can get the bore cut right on the money with the gun of the undercut an eliminate a lot of splitting, chipping and cleaning that it would normally take to finish the job. That's the one sure advantage of boring the corners.

And with that said, I'll hold off on cleaning out the insides until after I snipe the stump. Which after the fact makes it a lot easier to reach in and do the final cleaning.

Block out face cuts take more time, but better accuracy is achieved. As for one, it eliminates 99.9 percent of dutchman errors. for another it allows the hinge wood to guide the tree better. Well that is if the wood grain is vertical at the hinge. And that is where splitting the block out has a better advantage. Because it presents a better picture of how the grain runs at the hinge over the boring method. And when we can seen how the grain runs, vertical or twisted, it is a valuable clue to what we should do to follow through.
 
I bore in the height of the bar.
If I don't want the face that open, I just let part of the vertical cut go below the bottom of the face.
That way it acts like a vertical cut or as we call it here, a German.

I haven't had much use for busting the block out, since our trees are somewhat smaller.
But I can certainly see the advantage in being able to observe the fiber run that way.

Precise felling is mostly about reading and knowing wood fibers.
And of course having the proper tecnique and the precision to deal with them.
 
With gnarly, twisted and defect stumps I face the tree higher up to avoid all the problems those things present. Then cut the stump down after the fall. The foresters will get on your case if you don't.

Stump height polices here dictate that no stump shall be greater than 12 inches when measured from the high side of the slope. I abide when and where I can. However I have learned to follow my instincts more.
 
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  • #67
well, while we're talking about the German ( verticle kerf left below the sloping cut on a humboldt), what effect does the German have on the fall?
 
Not much on a block face, on an ordinary face it does somewhat the same as a block face does: allow the fibers to bend further before they break.
I use it habitually on trees where I want a little more directional control than i normally can get away with.

I don't much use the Humboldt, but the effect is the same on a conventional face.
It is such an easy extra insurance to put in, takes almost no efffort to make.
 
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  • #69
so is it meant to hold the tree in the lead, longer? does it bring a possible barber into play?
 
Not as long as you make your face open enough that it won't close untill the hinge has broken.
Since the hinge will be more flexible with a German cut in place, you might want to make the face a little more open than usual if the tree is of a kind that is prone to barberchair.
 
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  • #71
does the german run all the way accross the stump / part way / on the side away from the direction of fall, etc?
 
I used it the other day to swing a small, leaning ash away from a pond, guys were scratching their head a bit but it went off perfectly. Just one side in this case
 
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  • #73
right............my question is which side to you use it on? the side you want to swing away from, or on the side you want to swing the lean to?
 
More holding wood or any method that keeps a part of the tree attached to the stump longer, will want to swing the tree to that side's direction, say one side as opposed to the other. If you are working falling trees, gaining a basic understanding of how hinge dynamics work, will greatly benefit you. Many of the basic questions become self answarable after that, why techniques work as they do. Knowing why adds a safety element as well, matters can be convoluted by irregular grain or unsound wood.
 
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