Preferred notch for a suspected barber chair tree?

[Marc-Antoine]

Pete, a deep gob, on a hard leaner?

Maybe cut a notch deeper and deeper, until the trunk folds on its own, no back cut. I tried that only on a small hornbeamnk (about 8") heavily folded by a wind blown beech. It's difficult to keep cutting / nipping the notch's apex and not getting the chain pinched though. That takes more time, but you have to be careful anyway for this sort of spring loaded mouse trap.

 

[lxskllr]

I think I've heard of a reverse triangle, one maybe being dubbed Golden Triangle...

Like a Coos Bay, no directional control. No face cut.

The triangle points to the lean/ layout. The farther into the backcut, the narrower the width, so cut speed accelerates as you cut deeper.

Sound familiar to anyone?




Pete, a deep gob, on a hard leaner?

Barber chair

Had a situation come up today, where a relatively large pine was off it's stump and leaning against a Chestnut. The only way i could flop it was to cut the chestnut, whose limb was badly bowed from the weight. I knew the Chestnut was going to barber chair, and it seemed like no matter how I cut...

www.masterblasterhome.com

There's also this, which may be in the linked thread; backward...

The reason I know is I recently looked to find the definition of a coos bay cut. Honestly, I'm still not sure what a coos bay is. There's at least two accepted variants, which I'll call the Burnham and the Beranek. Are coos bays also triangle things? The first pic is the Stig Scandi cut, the second I haven't tracked the origin, but it appears to be a coos variant?

 

[biggun]

In the Uk a Dog tooth cut is recommended and taught on potential barber chair fells.

Pretty much a bore and release cut only the severing cut is on a 45 degree angle and resembles a dogs tooth.

 

[SeanKroll]

How is that supposed to help, compared to a lower-than-bore-cut backstrap release? I haven't tried it.

 

[stig]

It lets you stand up while doing the release cut.
Makes for a quicker getaway.
Bermy taught it to me, and I always use it on leaners now.
If you look at my last picture in the work picture thread where we were felling trees in high wind, you can see I tripped the tree that way.

 

[biggun]

As Stig stated... the mechanics of it are the same, it just allows you to stand and hotfoot it out of there quicker.

 

[Bermy]

What they said...it's what we are taught in the UK...and it works.
Some folks seem to think it will snatch your saw, it doesn't.

For smaller trees where there isn't enough room to get a bore cut in, you cut two small face cuts that meet in the point of a triangle facing the lay...then back cut. So the triangle of uncut wood in the middle gets smaller as you progress the cut towards the point.

 

[rbtree]

Barber chair

Had a situation come up today, where a relatively large pine was off it's stump and leaning against a Chestnut. The only way i could flop it was to cut the chestnut, whose limb was badly bowed from the weight. I knew the Chestnut was going to barber chair, and it seemed like no matter how I cut...

www.masterblasterhome.com

There's also this, which may be in the linked thread; backward...

The reason I know is I recently looked to find the definition of a coos bay cut. Honestly, I'm still not sure what a coos bay is. There's at least two accepted variants, which I'll call the Burnham and the Beranek. Are coos bays also triangle things? The first pic is the Stig Scandi cut, the second I haven't tracked the origin, but it appears to be a coos variant?

That's what I've used for years. Bermy's method with the apex of the triangle facing toward the lay gives essentially the same effect.

 

[SeanKroll]

What's up, @rbtree?

 

[stig]

That is actually a drawing I made years ago.

 

[rbtree]

What's up, @rbtree?

Basking in the glow of a great football day. Hawks, as of now, are the #1 seed! Working a little now and then, getting closer to being moved back in...and, spent Wednesday on the Nooksack. See Nooksack River Eagles - https://flic.kr/s/aHsmJYtWvW Click TV icon w/arrow upper right for slideshow

 

[Burnham]

Barber chair

Had a situation come up today, where a relatively large pine was off it's stump and leaning against a Chestnut. The only way i could flop it was to cut the chestnut, whose limb was badly bowed from the weight. I knew the Chestnut was going to barber chair, and it seemed like no matter how I cut...

www.masterblasterhome.com

There's also this, which may be in the linked thread; backward...

The reason I know is I recently looked to find the definition of a coos bay cut. Honestly, I'm still not sure what a coos bay is. There's at least two accepted variants, which I'll call the Burnham and the Beranek. Are coos bays also triangle things? The first pic is the Stig Scandi cut, the second I haven't tracked the origin, but it appears to be a coos variant?

A Coos Bay is not a triangle cut. The center strip is parallel with the head lean and of equal thickness fore to aft. The only difference between Jer's version and mine is I slip in as much face cut as I can manage, then bore in behind the hinge with the bar tip on either side to leave the central strip with a hinge...a T shape if viewed from above, if you will, then as fast a back cut down the strip as you can manage. Jerry just slaps in the side cuts to form the strip, then has at it from the rear.

You can easily see whose goes in faster, and that can prove a real advantage with heavy head leaners that want to 'chair badly. And my version always gives you the better chance at getting pinched in the cutting the face. I use Jerry's version more often than my own, any more. And it's not really "my" Coos Bay at all...I learned it direct from Doug Dent.

 

[davidwyby]

My $.02 since I've been doing and studying them. I prefer not to have a chain under tension by my head, so strap or even long rope wrapped many times. Open face, whatever style you like or fits the situ. I like block faces, they bend the hinge. *The face must not close before the hinge breaks*. Bore cut for a thin hinge, and or gut it. *The hinge must not be strong enough to resist the forward motion of the tree.* Pop that trigger and skedaddle.



*Don't pull too hard....