non-pro top handle recommendations

Does anyone know what the current ballpark price for that Stihl MS 150TC saw is? Jeff, did you see that? Less than six pounds! I think that would be really noticeable.

Tim
 
Kevin: I think you need to come over to my house for a couple beers. I got a couple goats I could trade for that 200.
 
Not mine. Just pics I have saved of others posted for info. My 200T went up to the UP for $325. Guy said his other 200T's couldnt cut close to it either. I knew she was a runner when I out-cut a woods ported 200 with it.
 
I ordered a 150t last week that should arrive sometime this week. $499 Canadian.
Originally thought my 200T was plenty light enough, but I've already gone the carpal tunnel surgery route with one wrist, and the other one isn't great. Neither are elbows or right shoulder for that matter.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #58
Does anyone know what the current ballpark price for that Stihl MS 150TC saw is? Jeff, did you see that? Less than six pounds! I think that would be really noticeable.

List on the 150 is $489.99 which is pretty rich for a weekend warrior! I do like the ultralight idea, but the one in my price range is the Echo 271T at $299 and 6.6# PHO.

Just for size and balance comparison, here's a video of (L to R) an Echo 355T, Echo 271T, Stihl 201T, Stihl 150T, and Dolmar 3410.

355 looks very neutral, 271 a hair tip-down, 201 a bit more so, 150 a bit tip-up, and the poor Dolly is just a mess. (I'm sure this would change with different length bars.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taORZZ26V6M
 
I bought the earlier model Echo 271T, the CS2600. Used it a couple of times but after years with 020T's and 200's it was a bit of a letdown so it sat on the shelf for years until the MS150 thread started.

I took off the chain it came with, pulled the spark arrestor out and it's a great little saw. I use it quite often now.

I still haven't got around to putting the carving bar on it like Stig did with his 150, but I will. If you buy one see if you can get this bar with it.

IMG_7174.JPG
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #60
That looks sweet, Steve! Is that picture considered the carving bar? The only carver I've watched work was using a "dime tip" bar that was much smaller at the end...:?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #62
Steve, do some arbs prefer a carving bar on a climbing saw? What are the advantages?
 
I was only going to try it after Stig put one on his 150 Stihl, he liked it. But you might be better off with the standard bar to start with now I've thought about it.

Well, I fell in love with the little saw today.
I used it ½ day, lineclearing. Then Richard had it the rest of the day.
As soon as they put it on the market here, we'll buy one.

I was taking a thigh thick long leaning top off a beech today. They like to blow up in your face, so normally I'd use a triangle cut on one as top loaded as this one, but with the carving type bar on the 150, I could bore cut it and trip it from behind, no problem.

It doesn't cut fast, about like a somewhat dull T200, and since most arbos can't sharpen chains anyway, the difference will be negligible:lol:
 
It was born that way.
I didn't put it on.
That little saw impresses me everytime I take it up a tree.

On the rotten birch I cut into bite sized peices and dumped last week, I did everything up to 5" with the 150 then switched to the T200 with 16" bar.
It really was no slower and for getting around in the tree, so much easier.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #65
It was born that way.

Yup. Sold with a 12" bar with small radius tip.

ms150tce.png


I did everything up to 5" with the 150 then switched to the T200 with 16" bar.

This is my concern. Since I need a generalist saw, I'm wondering if the hyper-light models with 12" bars are too specialized?
The two key questions seem to be:
  • Would the 271 pull a 14" chain okay?
  • Should I just get a heavier 35cc saw and call it good?
 
I certainly wouldn't buy a hyper light saw as my only climbing saw. No way.

Especially since the T150 needs an experienced hand at chain filing in order to perform IMO.
 
Yeah, I'm really not sure about the reasoning behind a small bar-tip on a small engine (unless you are carving bears and salmon). The smaller sprocket-nose would increase chain speed while diminishing torque. Not sure why you would want to run that. :?
 
Because it works real well for pruning jobs.
You can get in anywhere with that carving tip, even places where the ol´trusty Silky can't reach.
I've used it on my fruit trees, to remove those branches that are too big for the pruners.
That tiny chain makes the cleanest cut, you can imagine.

As for increasing chain speed, I'd love to see the physics behind that................one part of the chain running faster than the rest.
 
Going from 7 to a 8 will increase chain speed. Nothing to do with the bar.

Can you explain your theory please. :? Willing to learn.

picco78.png
 
Back
Top