My new(ish) saw

I think you would have a better source of parts over there. There are a few still around over here, and as I understand it this model is still sold in Central America.
See Ya
Mike
 
James, Sooo.... If Andy ports the serial number will he get higher torque output?:P


Andy, The oils are better now---you can run anything on 32/1 even the old Macs that specified 10/1.


Any one can port a serial number - but you get the best results when you use a number cruncher CPA.
 
I have a old Mac 650 that I have ran Stihl oil at 50:1 in for over 12 years with no problems at all. know if you need
See Ya
Mike
I've got a thundering old 650 too but being somewhat like Stumper I prefer 32 to 1 also.It only smokes when you first start it up ,due to a bit of oil sucked in by the impulse oil pump,old ya know.

I imagine 40 or 50 to one would work fine but I tell you now old habits die hard.I used to wonder why in the world some of the old timers were so set in their ways.Now I am one and I still don't know.:)
 
With the additives they put in the oils these days, I don't see any problems running them in the older saws. I think it all comes down to what you are comfortable running. I know one fella that refuses to run anything but 16:1 in all his older saws.
See Ya
Mike
 
I agree Mike... I guess the day I actually do have an oil related failure, maybe I'll change my tune. Until then it's 50:1 Stihl synthetic in everything.

Gary
You run saws & "PLAY" with them long enough the chances are you will have such a failure. A lot of things happen as a saw ages.

I just believe a well seasoned ear & a little more oil gives an aged hand a little more time to shut things down before the carnage starts.
 
I would agree Jeff, you run anything long enough you will see ware. On the other hand I would equate the amount of ware to the quality of oil and not the amount. The oils today are Formulated for the higher RPM, and the higher temperatures of todays saw. The saw today run at around 13,000 RPMs and can have ringland temps reaching 300 to 400 degrees. Where the older saws tend to run 6,500 to 8,000 RPMs, and have much lower temps. The debate is still open, but for people that use their saws everyday to make their living, why take a chance. Until proven other wise, go with what is shown to work.
See Ya
Mike
 
What is diffrent in 070 and 090?

If I remember correct dissplacement or at very least bore needs to be messured to be sure... But again.. These are far from what I coulod call in my interest...

Could this not be a 070?


Oh, The 08 and S10 is much the same in the top handle version. 08 has HL and S10 has HS carb if I am not misstaken...
 
The most important thing when determining mix ratios is the level of lubrication. If you're going to mix 1970's era 40wt oil with your gas then you need to mix it at the ratios specified back then for that type of oil. If you're using modern synthetic mix oils then you will get superior lubrication by sticking with the current recommended ratios of 50-1 or even 40-1 for large displacement saws over 100cc.

That answer will still apply regardless of the saw in question. :D

I agree as well as Gary - I believe you both are right! :) ;)

The oil is the issue, not the age of the saw - at least when it has a Nikasil cylinder.
 
Here are some pics of a 090G, the G stands for gear drive.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #48
Haha the milling thing is gonna be a hobby/dem sorta thing, not an everyday thing. Hear what your sayig tho. Hats off to those who've worked a full day with one off these saws! Thanks for the pics of the G model, just wanted to clear that up.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #49
Ok after much delay and hassle finding the right bar,(Stihl sent out an 088 bar in error) here she is with a 36" lasertip. Run up and raring to go, got a Beech takedown tomorrow, where she'll be a back up for the 066 & then the Alaskan Mill is on order.
 

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