ms660

  • Thread starter Thread starter brendonv
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You are part mistaken. Full skip will out cut comp on a "long" bar any day. The extra cutters on comp can't clear the cut so your cut speed drops when using long bars.8)

Ahhhh

You are correct sir! I should have clarified.
 
The MS361 is great in the tree! Limbing and bucking is good too, but for the stuff you had in your photo, I wouldn't use the MS361.

The 460 is great on the ground for bucking larger wood. And, I'm with Skwerl, I roll with a 28" bar too. And it is not too heavy while using it in the tree for a removal.

I use the 088 for the larger stuff. I never regret that purchase either.;)
 
So, now that I talked Brendon out of buying a 660, it seems I may be in the market for one. I'm curious what the prices are around the country. My new favorite local dealer quoted me $945 plus tax today for a 660 with 32". Sounded like a heck of a deal, especially considering what I paid for that ported Husky 395 that I ended up sending back to Ed. I need a stump cutter, not a cookie cutter.
 
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  • #85
I'm bumping this thread. I'm so glad I ended up going with the blower and the 361 instead of the 660. I find the saw I grab for pretty much everything is the 361. The thing is very light and cuts like a dream with the 20". As you know I put a 28" on the 460 and it pulled through some large Beech the other day like nothing.

I haven't raked a lawn since the purchase of the BR600 either!
 
But you're comparing apples to oranges. The 66 is for running a bigger bar and cutting larger stuff. If you only run a 20" bar then by all means go with the smaller saw.
 
And a 46 ain't gonna hold a candle to a 66 in the longer bar lengths.

I agree though the 361 is a amazingly smooth saw to run, almost seems effortless.
 
The 361? I dunno on the ground I still seem to grab a 46 first. Dangling or riding though I'll take the 361 always over a 46 now.
 
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  • #90
I'm just saying I'm happy with my decision. It seems as of late all the big tree's are being done for free anyway, or close there too (just bid $3800, they got a price of 600, just bid $3500, they got a price of 1800). For me big tree's aignt the ticket, hence my question about even getting the 660. It seems residential treework around here is like logging, cut the tree down for a little money, then sell the firewood.

The 361 is great for limbing trees on ground, I am small and the 460 gets heavy.
 
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  • #92
I try not to work to hard if I don't have too, got to keep energized for the afternoon activities... not all of us have bucket trucks :)
 

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I'm just fooling around. But hell yah thank god for my bucket truck, I'd be lost without it fo sure!:D
 
I hear you, Brendon. And I'm glad you are seeing the light. I see way too many younger tree guys go out and buy a 660 before they have a decent compliment of smaller saws. Most guys buy a 660 because they can't get their smaller saws to cut well. But buying a big saw won't improve your sharpening skills. The 660 isn't going to make you as much money as a couple midsize saws (or a midsize saw plus a blower). And the other benefit is that it will force you to become better at sharpening chains since your 460 has to do all your big work. ;)

After 20 years of doing treework and currently owning about a dozen saws, I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on a new 660 for myself. I've never needed to buy one before, but now subbing with the bucket truck I'm doing a lot more big removals and many of the guys I'm working for don't own a big saw for the stump cuts. My three ported 372's are getting beat up on the big stuff so I think it may be time.
 
:lol:Gotta have my pearly whites! Although I sure wish they came with some kind of a replacement guarantee, sure don't want to have to do it again.
 
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