Ok, lets look at the questions, and well done on the possibility of some cheap broken saws, amazing what you can come across sometimes.I found the case tools from Mattyo. Definitely seems like a handy kit. I do hope and plan on being able to get good at this where I can buy and fix up old saws in the area. My area doesn’t really have any skilled/known chainsaw techs and I would like to be that guy. So far my only projects are my 440 and 460 I got for free that need a good bit of work. My long term hope is to get to port my 440 and build a beast of a saw. Not sure what I’ll do with the 460 yet but definitely gonna fix it up and learn with both of them. I have a connection with a guy locally that receives all of the broken chainsaws from a big production company. I heard he has a whole container filled with chainsaws. Most of them are 201tc’s to my knowledge. After I get my saws going I’m hoping to get his info from my boss and go by his place and see how many saws I come back with lol. May get a bunch of broken top handles and get to build them and sell them. I ordered everything I need to start learning timing on the saws and doing the pressure/vacuum tests and compression tests. So that kit was for assembly. Gonna number my questions cause I have a lot of them lol, sorry.
1. What tools would you recommend for separating the casing as well as doing the crank seals?
2. Also when checking the squish, from watching tinman on YouTube he uses solder to check it. What is a normal diameter solder?
3. Is the squish checked at the smallest part of the solder where it got crimped or is it checked on the tip of the solder in the “squish bubble” area?
4. When torquing down the head bolts, what are an adequate torque standard for those or is that info available somewhere?
Oh and another disclaimer. There is virtually no husqvarna dealers in my area and no one runs there saws so all I ever work on is stihl