Light guide bars
- Thread starter SeanKroll
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Nutball
TreeHouser
Canola might gum up and basically seize the chain on the bar and the sprocket tip until heat is applied if let sit. It may contribute to accelerated rusting also. These may not be issues with frequent use. I know for certain vegetable oil is pretty bad.
The worst problem I've had with canola so far is chains I pack away for an extended time get tacky, and don't flex as readily. Might take a couple tries to get it properly tensioned, but after a few seconds in wood, they work as good as anything.
BeerGeek
Tree Numbnutz
The MS261 has the .325 sprocket. As I stated earlier, around here, they ship with .063 gauge bars, so if Sean has the same, and goes w/the Stihl light bar, only offered in .050 gauge for 20".
You can put a 3/8 sprocket on them. I did that with my 026, and promptly found a problem with it. I need to tear into it, and see if I can find the problem. Hoping it's the clutch. I should have thought about that in the first place, but not sure if I did. I got disgusted with the whole thing and packed it away. Got the clutch idea from the here with the video of a guy and his new Chinese saw. If not the clutch, time to take the p&c off, and see if it's good. Next best thing is new rings. Otherwise, it's shelve it til a donor saw comes cheap or free to get it going again.
Burnham
Woods walker
I also had to do something like this, Fi; for the same s&g
, a few years back...20 inch bar, full skip chisel, on my museum grade 064.As one might guess, it ripped azz like few saws will. Balanced really nice, too. That 064 under my standard dress pulls a 32 inch b&c. It surely is somewhat nose heavy in that configuration
.It wouldn't do so well when faced with a 40 inch log, bucking firewood, I have to note
. There, the long bar and chain make the weight and nose heavy balance worth it.
pete mctree
Treehouser
I usually run a 20” on my 461 - cutting the trees that we do (mainly hardwood) a ported 50cc saw maxes out on an 18”. Horses for courses
pete mctree
Treehouser
Edit.....
run it on an 18” when the chain tensioner on your small saw breaks 😁
run it on an 18” when the chain tensioner on your small saw breaks 😁
Magnus
TreeHouser
I run it more than 10 years on all saws I run and all customer saws I get in here. Most customers run it now too.
I have yet to see it gum up, get hard ot act up in a way I don't like.
Put oil pumps up on max and let the oil take the heat with it as it fly off.
Either the smell has changed with the additives, or I have simply gotten used to it.
In the beginning, every time I got some on a hot muffler while tanking, I'd get a craving for French fries.
We started using it, because it was a requirement when logging State forests, now it is all we use.
We go through a couple of 50 Gal. drums a year, normally.
In the beginning, every time I got some on a hot muffler while tanking, I'd get a craving for French fries.
We started using it, because it was a requirement when logging State forests, now it is all we use.
We go through a couple of 50 Gal. drums a year, normally.
Performance of canola seems ok in the heat? I run it in the winter, but due to people saying it can polymerize, and the lack of tackifiers, I run regular bar oil in the summer. If y'all think it's good any time, I might switch to it 100%.
Canola(rapeseed) probably. It has an industrial history in it's unpurified form. The low acid variant is what's sold as food, Dunno if it's just a convenient backronym, but I was told that canola is CanadaOilLowAcid. Makes sense. That's where most(all?) of it came from, at least back in the day.
Nutball
TreeHouser
Price? I will assume they are either made by Archer or Oregon.
The description is strikingly similar to WoodlandPro, Bailey's house brand, which I use. I haven't used them on my big saws, but they're my preferred bar on my little saws. They may come from the same factory. I don't think I have any sleeves left, but I believe they're made in Taiwan.
