Left-handed triggering?

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Back chaining and left handed cutting is not how a saw was designed to be used. Both have uses it's knowing when and where it's necessary. The default setting should be right handed triggering and cutting with the bottom of the bar. One of the reasons/benefits of a wrap bar is so you don't have to back chain in order to be on the side of the tree you need to be.
 
McGuarantee said:
and i guess i should ask, what do you mean by 'side bind'? something under pressure, i would assume. but other than that i don't know. are you talking about obstacles in the way to where you can't make the cut except if you use your left hand to trigger?
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Sides going together in a cut is one thing. A wedge in back pocket inserted in cut prevent this.
In some situations and species the fiber rise and bind even though sides doesn't try to meet. When I notice this I keep throttle in, gently pull it out and let them rise, bore in again and repeat if needed.
Makes interesting artwork when you look at the surface cut after. Looks like a cross between turtle and hedgehog run over by a tank.
 
McGuarantee said:
and i guess i should ask, what do you mean by 'side bind'? something under pressure, i would assume. but other than that i don't know. are you talking about obstacles in the way to where you can't make the cut except if you use your left hand to trigger?
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Son, you need to do some research and get some proper training, I'm thinking.
 
I find side bind confusing sometimes, when it is compounded by more than one location putting force on a log, like the typical one where a fallen tree has landed between other trees and is in contact with them. I get a flash of a potential broken leg or something. No doubt that guys with more experience can approach it more forthright, but I will sometimes do some walking to get to a location where I feel more comfortable doing a cut to start the bucking process, and then maybe still quite a gingerly approach. No dout that about everyone here has seen some logs kick out that they wouldn't want to be in the way of, resulting from side bind. I think of it as a potentially highly dangerous phenomenon.

An explanation of side bind:

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm04232822/page14.htm
 
Stand on top of the log when you finally have to trip the last little bit of tension wood. Worst that can happen: you fall off the log, but it sure beats a busted shin or something. Or what Magnus said: just keep on reaming until you've formed a "face-cut," of sorts. Or just a full-on face and back cut if you can do it without putting the tip in the dirt.
 
I think the worst that can happen is getting launched. Any advantage to orbiting the planet with your chainsaw? :\:
 
Burnham said:
Son, you need to do some research and get some proper training, I'm thinking.
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I appreciate your concern, but I am competent and safe. I might not know all the specific terms, and I was just wanting an explanation, not someone to tell me I was not properly trained. I work hard, stay safe and provide for myself by working with trees. I am constantly researching new gear and techniques. I'm sorry to say it, but that hit home in a bad way. Try and be more considerate or offer some sort of help. Thanks you woodworkingboy for actually offering up an explanation. Why do you think I am on this forum in the first place if not because I am doing my best to stay informed?
 
okay, got it. now i know some new terms. if the pressure is in the top of the log, it's a top bind, bottom of the log, bottom bind, and side of the log, side bind. I have just had more experience with top and bottom binds and haven't run into a whole lot of side binding. I've never had a chainsaw course per se, just on the job training, so these terms aren't as familiar to me. I am ISA certified tree worker, and I'm not sure if side binds was covered in that book, and if so I have forgotten. I have Jeff Jepsons 'To Fell a Tree' so maybe I'll just dive more deeply into that book. Might help
 
It's good to take pride in what you have learned and build confidence, but don't interpret Burnham's reply the wrong way. It may have seemed a bit abrupt or critical, but take it as fact that his only concern is for your safety. He has many years of commitment teaching people to be safe when working trees. The thing with bottom or top bind excluding complications, is the potential risk of your saw getting stuck, but with side bind, there is the clear possibility of a log or a former part of one moving sideways towards the sawyer with tremendous force, and no time to get out of the way. Assessing every situation pertaining to side bind can't be adequately described in a book, great care is sometimes needed. I'd be worried myself, of someone going into the woods and having to deal with side bind without much previous experience. It's how you learn, but potentially risky.
 
Right, thanks. I read it and interpreted it too hastily. It just seemed like a abrupt judgement of my safety/skill level because I wasn't registering what the term meant that was being discussed. I know most people on here mean the best and are really great...as the Ents would have us know, being hasty is no way to be. I have dealt with 'side bind', just didn't know what it was called specifically at the time. It has been an issuer of knowing where the pressure was and how to safely release it and be out of the potential impact zone. And being a younger worker I don't do anything I feel uncomfortable with or judge as dangerous without being shown how. I also do residential tree work so I'm not really going off into the woods wielding a chainsaw anyhow. And if so, I'm not doing it by myself. :) Sorry about getting defensive, I just try and be an active learner and am always trying to be safer, and I guess I felt that come under attack. But having worked for a little over 2 years, I haven't seen everything, not even close. And that's also good to remember.
 
Side bind is really nice for spitting a saw into your legs. Works like a charm. Preferably with a little torsion in the limb. That really makes a super fast transition from the wood to the thighs.
 
squisher said:
Back chaining and left handed cutting is not how a saw was designed to be used. Both have uses it's knowing when and where it's necessary. The default setting should be right handed triggering and cutting with the bottom of the bar. One of the reasons/benefits of a wrap bar is so you don't have to back chain in order to be on the side of the tree you need to be.
Click to expand...

Yes... Full-wraps please.
 
Whatever, the result is the same.
I didn't set the standard for stumps here, so dont get on my case:lol:
 
I can switch back and forth no problem. My left arm is a little stronger, but the right works just fine.
 
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