gf beranek
Old Schooler
Flipline, lanyard, buckstrap, safety. Oh, yeah.
Lanyards?
- Thread starter squisher
- Start date
- Replies 112
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MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Gimme a rope, snap, and a Gibbs ascender. It ain't chinese algebra!
M
Mike Maas
Guest
The Gibbs is OK, but it doesn't let slack out with pressure on the line.
You are about to make a cut and find you need an inch or two of slack, with a Gibbs, you have to put on the chain brake, shut off the saw, hang it back on your belt, pull the weight off your rope, use both hands to adjust the Gibbs, re-weight your rope, remove your saw, pull and pull and pull on the saw because it's a Stihl, and at some point finally get back to work.
With a friction hitch, you just reach up and adjust it with one hand.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Say what? I don't go through all that rigamore! I just pull the tail, easy peasy.
B
BostonBull
Guest
Pull th tail to let slack out? I have never used a gibbs but this sems odd?
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
No, pulling cinches it.
Wait, I see my misunderstanding of Frans' post. Yes, loosing it can be a PITA. I usually just hunch forward to take my weight off it so I can work the gizmo.
Wait, I see my misunderstanding of Frans' post. Yes, loosing it can be a PITA. I usually just hunch forward to take my weight off it so I can work the gizmo.
I have a little trouble accepting the definition of "lanyards" and "flip lines" as being one and the same. In my mind (and that's a thought!) they have always been separated.
The flip line, for me, is always heavy and designed for, yep, flipping. Primarily used in removals. On many removals, I will often use two flip lines; as I have found this is the fastest and safest way to cross obstacles, if necessary. I have used 3/4" three strand, tended with a VT. And just recently tried one of the "new" style of wire core flip lines and like it alot. (See pic)
Lanyard, on the other hand, primary use as a secondary tie in point is usually light weight and long so that it can be useful in various situations on trim jobs.
Dave
The flip line, for me, is always heavy and designed for, yep, flipping. Primarily used in removals. On many removals, I will often use two flip lines; as I have found this is the fastest and safest way to cross obstacles, if necessary. I have used 3/4" three strand, tended with a VT. And just recently tried one of the "new" style of wire core flip lines and like it alot. (See pic)
Lanyard, on the other hand, primary use as a secondary tie in point is usually light weight and long so that it can be useful in various situations on trim jobs.
Dave
Attachments
sotc
Dormant hero!!
mines light weight and short, and i was just razzing squishy for using a term i dont.
my micro grab is adjustable one handed most of the time. do like butch said or stand up and in, when your weight comes off a little just thumb the cam open till it whereyou want and let go. piece of cookie
my micro grab is adjustable one handed most of the time. do like butch said or stand up and in, when your weight comes off a little just thumb the cam open till it whereyou want and let go. piece of cookie
brendonv
Tree Hugger
Lightweight here. 3/8" Static line, with a VT and a dog leash snap for advancing. All tied directly to the D, less jingle.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
W
Wagnaw
Guest
Take another look at what Burnham uses. He's using static rope, which is nice and stiff for flipping but also soft enough to use all the time. I'll never go back to regular climbing line as a lanyard rope. Right now I use 11mm PMI static line, an alum snap, and a gibbs.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #37
I prefer a wire core flipline for going straight up a excurrent evergreen around here. Everything is metal in my set-up for that, attachments and adjuster. I may not follow all of the same rules as most here if I just have to go up a straight spar knocking off the limbs. 
W
Wagnaw
Guest
Call me out if I'm wrong, but I don't really understand the greatness in a steel core flipline other than the "flippiness." They're heavy, and you can still cut through em'. I'd much rather have a stiff piece of static line, which is lighter and flips just as nice. Then you just have to follow the "2nd rule of tree work." Don't cut yer rope.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
I don't care for them, myself.
Bodean
Cali dreamer
A Lanyard goes on your saw or a pocket knife.
A flipline is a flipline.
I call a nonwirecore/rope a flipline too.
Anything from side D to Side D is a flipline.
That's just me though,
Tomato Potato
With a big flip wirecore I use a gibbs, I have no problem letting slack out of it loaded,
I like a 1/2 inch spliced eye with a caribiner and VT too, if I'm pruning.
A flipline is a flipline.
I call a nonwirecore/rope a flipline too.
Anything from side D to Side D is a flipline.
That's just me though,
Tomato Potato
With a big flip wirecore I use a gibbs, I have no problem letting slack out of it loaded,
I like a 1/2 inch spliced eye with a caribiner and VT too, if I'm pruning.
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Wagnaw, I don't think there is a right or wrong here. It is just whatever works for you. On steel cores, for me, it is all about the stiffness and the "flippiness".
I never rely on it as cutproofing. I have never had a light weight line, even a stiff one, that will do a roll flip as well as a cable core. When the flip lines start getting long because the trees are getting big, there is no comparison. It is much harder to notice the difference on the medium and small trees. And for me the extra weight is not noticeable when on my saddle...I have suspenders!
Dave
F
Frans
Guest
I don't have that trouble. lean slightly forward, squeeze the Gibbs and slack out the flip line as much as needed. To take up slack I just pull on the end while taking my weight off a bit.
But then again, I one hand chainsaws, so I am an out of control dangerous mutant according to the latest P.C. rant about one handed chain saw use...
sotc
Dormant hero!!
one handing your flip line is taxable also
M
Mike Maas
Guest
If it is so easy to slack, why not use it for your climbing line too? LOL!
Back in the day I used a Gibbs for a couple years, but once I figured out a nicely tuned VT, I switched over and didn't look back.
Then I got a wild hair up my ass and tried a Gillion for a while, and back to the VT.
Then when ART came out with the positioner, I gave that a run for a few months, but again, back to the VT.
If I was climbing big, fat, sappy, trees out west, I'd probably be on a Gibbs.
sotc
Dormant hero!!
F
Frans
Guest
You answered the question to your entire point of why not to use that system. But to say that a Gibbs will not adjust is not accurate. Better to say, for you, the gibbs does not adjust under load.
As for using a gibbs for a climbing system, have you ever used variations on a doubled whipped tackle to ascend using DRT? Robert Phillips has come up with some effective and easy ways of doing this.
It just takes alot of climb line to do it.
I respect you alot Mike, you know a hell of alot, and you are very smart as well. I respect that in you.
It is just when someone says something doesn't work, and it actually does, well, maybe it is more accurate to say it doesn't work FOR YOU.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #50
Just to clarify my point. I climbed for five years rigging spars with a belt and one wirecore flipline, no climbline. Have you tried to cut through one? Basically anything is cuttable but a wirecore flipline is gonna take a hell of alot more to accidentaly cut through then a non wirecore. Now I know this isn't an issue for all y'all who are always tied in twice everytime that saw is fired up.
And beleive you me climbing with one flipline and nothing else you follow the rule of not cutting it.
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