rfwoody
Treehouser
haha, I haven't done a lot of it, so I haven't had my fill of fun hand splitting yet!
Labor-Saving Techniques and Tools
- Thread starter SouthSoundTree
- Start date
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woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Hand splitting is especially good if you're in a softball league. I started hitting home runs and I wasn't a power hitter.
flushcut
TreeHouser
I'll hand split a few rounds a year just to know that I still can swing a maul with some accuracy.
I still hand split most of my 30 cubic meters of hardwood a year..
I use a system based on the California penal code thing: " 3 strikes and you are out".
Those that don't split by the 3rd stroke gets put aside for the 25 ton hydraulic splitter.
I use a system based on the California penal code thing: " 3 strikes and you are out".
Those that don't split by the 3rd stroke gets put aside for the 25 ton hydraulic splitter.
flushcut
TreeHouser
I think that qualifies as, working hard but hardly working. lol
ruel
TreeHouser
How I pine for the metric system. Cubic meters not cord, how civilized
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Neither can a lot of Americans. People look shocked when I tell them that its is a standard volume measurement, now what fits in some guys truck. That's a type of a truck load.
rfwoody
Treehouser
I plan to sell by the 4' x 8' x (18 to 20" avg)
-- and advertise it as a "face cord" of 18-20" pieces... (or maybe a "load" of 4'x8'x(18 to 20)")
(a pretty full load in my full size PU bed).
This is approx. 2/5 of a TRUE full cord and 5/6 of a TRUE half cord.
Planning to deliver and stack a load for $125 within 10 miles and $150 for up to 40 miles or so.
A little unsure about the lengths.
Seems most people cut to 16", but I believe that is mainly for wood stoves... and my initial assumption is that most of my customers would be for fireplaces.
So far I've only sold one load, last season.
-- and advertise it as a "face cord" of 18-20" pieces... (or maybe a "load" of 4'x8'x(18 to 20)")
(a pretty full load in my full size PU bed).
This is approx. 2/5 of a TRUE full cord and 5/6 of a TRUE half cord.
Planning to deliver and stack a load for $125 within 10 miles and $150 for up to 40 miles or so.
A little unsure about the lengths.
Seems most people cut to 16", but I believe that is mainly for wood stoves... and my initial assumption is that most of my customers would be for fireplaces.
So far I've only sold one load, last season.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
We always cut to 20".
rfwoody
Treehouser
Butch, is that for a fireplace?
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Yes.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
16" fits in a 20" box...
Know your market.
What is advertised locally?
If you're hauling wood, a quick way to go broke is a small pick-up load. At least your earning money as unskilled labor to stack wood. What is your hourly stacking rate? How far from the truck? How many stairs included in the price?
Know your market.
What is advertised locally?
If you're hauling wood, a quick way to go broke is a small pick-up load. At least your earning money as unskilled labor to stack wood. What is your hourly stacking rate? How far from the truck? How many stairs included in the price?
rfwoody
Treehouser
Good point and questions, Sean.
I was depending on trial and error to know my market along with browsing the ad's (e.g. on craigslist) which usually don't say lengths.
I have about 8 stacks ready to go, all 18-20" avg., so these were going to be my trial widths and see how it went, factoring in any feedback for future lengths.
Yeah, 16" would work for all... unless somebody with a wide fireplace liked filling it with wider logs.
I was depending on trial and error to know my market along with browsing the ad's (e.g. on craigslist) which usually don't say lengths.
I have about 8 stacks ready to go, all 18-20" avg., so these were going to be my trial widths and see how it went, factoring in any feedback for future lengths.
Yeah, 16" would work for all... unless somebody with a wide fireplace liked filling it with wider logs.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Up here, most have wood stoves.
Email the Craigslist ads from an ordinary email ( not business) and ask about lengths and species. Stacking fees. Payment options. Sales tax.
I sometimes have a firewood seller pick up my wood for free, in big pieces that he loads with a mini-excavator.
I get paid for disposal. I don't lift a finger.
On to the next job.
Another small time firewood seller loads by hand.
Now
Email the Craigslist ads from an ordinary email ( not business) and ask about lengths and species. Stacking fees. Payment options. Sales tax.
I sometimes have a firewood seller pick up my wood for free, in big pieces that he loads with a mini-excavator.
I get paid for disposal. I don't lift a finger.
On to the next job.
Another small time firewood seller loads by hand.
Now
Mick!
TreeHouser
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Smart!
A log pivoting trick...when you have a log that need to be rotated, either due to the conical shape causing them to roll to one side, needing to turn the corner of the house 90*, need to load the log with the 'other' end first so spin it 180*...
You will want to set up a teeter-totter/ lever, basically.
Figure out the balance point of the log.
Find/ make a piece of wood/ limb that is the right shape (varies, based on terrain and log) and put it down at the balance point, next to the log. This will be a fulcrum/ pivot point.
Roll the log up onto this pivot-wood (usually 2-4" tall, just enough to get the log clear).
You are now balancing off the ground (with a little manual help, possibly more than a little if you want to rotate off of the COG, rather than at the COG).
Rotate the log.
Roll off the pivot-point.
This is a good way to be able to roll logs, rather than skid them on nice turf. You roll and adjust the direction of heavy straight logs this way with a Peavy and /or momentum.
A log pivoting trick...when you have a log that need to be rotated, either due to the conical shape causing them to roll to one side, needing to turn the corner of the house 90*, need to load the log with the 'other' end first so spin it 180*...
You will want to set up a teeter-totter/ lever, basically.
Figure out the balance point of the log.
Find/ make a piece of wood/ limb that is the right shape (varies, based on terrain and log) and put it down at the balance point, next to the log. This will be a fulcrum/ pivot point.
Roll the log up onto this pivot-wood (usually 2-4" tall, just enough to get the log clear).
You are now balancing off the ground (with a little manual help, possibly more than a little if you want to rotate off of the COG, rather than at the COG).
Rotate the log.
Roll off the pivot-point.
This is a good way to be able to roll logs, rather than skid them on nice turf. You roll and adjust the direction of heavy straight logs this way with a Peavy and /or momentum.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Yep. Done that many a time!
Mick!
TreeHouser
I still use the reading glasses!
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
I hate that I have to...
Mick!
TreeHouser
Meh, other aspects of ageing bother me more.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Being able to see is a high priority for me.
I'm practically blind in my right eye from a cataract... gonna get the ball rolling at my VA to have it removed.
I'm practically blind in my right eye from a cataract... gonna get the ball rolling at my VA to have it removed.
Mick!
TreeHouser
I can understand that.
I've never had an issue, so take it for granted
I've never had an issue, so take it for granted
