Is This Cool? - Rattle Wedge

lxskllr

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Jed's metal wedge caught my interest. I thought I saw something similar somewhere else, but an image search didn't give me anything. I did find this though...


Spendy, but looks interesting. Not sure if it's much better than beating plastic, but it should be easier to use in-tree. Thoughts?
 
I do not think most are too fond of metal wedges here at the house , or at least that’s the impression I got when I posted pics of mine ... they work for sure !
 
It's a stupid idea...the angle of attack is far too steep to work on anything heavy, but that's just my simple-minded opinion based only on 40+ years falling trees bigger than most ever see.
:D
 
Interesting but I’m not guinea pigging it.

If anyone makes a taller wedge, like 2 stacked wedges but just 1 piece, I’d buy a few.
 
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  • #6
Woke up early, and I've been looking for more on it. Not a whole lot around, and that probably says something. Found a couple videos, but they don't show much. If someone had a metal lathe, it would be pretty easy to make one minus the ratcheting as a proof of concept. That shop I linked has another screw wedge that's solid. It requires a ratchet or something else to turn it in.
 
It might come in handy tipping chunks but I can't see it working well tipping whole trees. The rattle wedge that is.
 
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  • #8
Yea, it looks like it's oriented towards climbers. That's what the 2 videos I saw showed. This is the better video of the two, but it doesn't show much...

 
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  • #10
I've toyed with the idea of a felling lever, but haven't been sure it was worth the cost. Nobody's said they're amazing or anything. Seems like "Yea, it's alright" kinda tool.
 
Looks like it would be good for about what he's using it for. Something that is just beyond being able to push by hand but not really worth setting a line for. Might come in handy sometimes.
 
i've played with wedges in tree and also using a prybar (semi-truck tire changing 'spoon') for trickier stuff, adding force etc.
Mostly best i think is serial use of 2 ropes, 1 pulling from ground at top, 1 catching.
Also, less operations at critical fold and tearoff, for climber.
Rope is more amicable to use in more ways and keep a hold of etc.
It is also soft if dropped, and easier to find.
.
This tool seems would need harder wood, for full benefit, as ran into with tire spoon prybar.
If screwing into softwood, and tears up wood etc. that is reduction in output lift.
.
In vid would try to get Half Hitch and pulley closer together,
even small notches to bed Half in and pulley support too.
Also, add high hand push for added force over and more immediate feel when she started going.
On this 'springy' type, tried to drop back hard as rope taking hit to other side, so that total force in moment , gets more direction down , than across spar as a column of support.
More run without escalating speed to ground, to snub out last 200# of force into ground and not rope(needs lots of ground control experience for that).
 
i've played with wedges in tree and also using a prybar (semi-truck tire changing 'spoon') for trickier stuff, adding force etc.
Mostly best i think is serial use of 2 ropes, 1 pulling from ground at top, 1 catching.
Also, less operations at critical fold and tearoff, for climber.
Rope is more amicable to use in more ways and keep a hold of etc.
It is also soft if dropped, and easier to find.
.
This tool seems would need harder wood, for full benefit, as ran into with tire spoon prybar.
If screwing into softwood, and tears up wood etc. that is reduction in output lift.
.
In vid would try to get Half Hitch and pulley closer together,
even small notches to bed Half in and pulley support too.
Also, add high hand push for added force over and more immediate feel when she started going.
On this 'springy' type, tried to drop back hard as rope taking hit to other side, so that total force in moment , gets more direction down , than across spar as a column of support.
More run without escalating speed to ground, to snub out last 200# of force into ground and not rope(needs lots of ground control experience for that).





I read somewhere Kenny that it doesn’t matter how close to the pulley the half hitch is as long as it’s at least half way up the chunk (I do know actually, it was Ian Flatters on AT the climber in that vid)
The weight is only taken when the COG of the log gets caught or something.
I can’t explain how he explained it, I’ll try and find the post.
 
Thanx Mick, sounds familiar, CoG displacement same; but would like to see again for other related factors in same action; lots of theories.
.
To me, closer feels like less play and run; it can't run away as far outward or downward, before catch impact and elastic buffering by rope etc.
.
Standing proud(before flex/fold) can pre-stretch that rope portion so tight even helps rotation as gets angle
(when super tight can also help is ground control pulls to start rotation)
Flexing over can move pulley and hitch closer together i think(slacken rope?), more exaggerated by farther spread?
Then, snatch out that slack on hit?
Can also allow more pitch away on 'early release'?
.
i tried to work it with just the needed face opening for less distance between points.
>>places Half Hitch more precariously close to edge..
>>so would cut small baby notches as rope beddings back of fall/most opposing the front pulls and usually at least 1 side while at it(easier than cutting face on opposite side) to bed rope in as safety(hitch and block positions).
Also capitalizing on any Natural deformities, to determine initial position of face then pulley and hitch perhaps at friendly deform/taper positions to help lock.
.
This forged puppy is super strong semi-truck tire changing spoon, very small and also smooth flat 'lip' fits in kerf
the larger versions of tire changing levers do look more like the red/orange felling lever above(spoon itself is like 2.5ft long):
>>this is single forge/non-weld by comparison, that also by contrast smooths out to 'bitt' for kerf where weld tries to assimilate to less squareness here on red felling bar,
>>but round so metal not maximized to axis force carried on/uniform around >> but super strong, single forge, smooth angle changes none the less
54406_2000x2000.jpg

Always afraid of dropping metal weight, even if no one underneath; can get glancing bounce their way, and not at brain bucket angle....
One with pre-dilled hole harder to find, to put in loop keeper
>>small keeper can also be keeper for leg/bodyweight powered 2/1 rope on bar , keeping hands free w/bar under armpit
>>that with knot or other stop can then catch bar >> but more pre-setting
In tree used mostly on short, wide blocks (no high rope leverage position like in film, but can get some reduced help from ground control, again favoring over the top position here especially)
>>to flex over slow (if close CoG so not much across pull for this ) into Humboldt slide or at least 'sniped' slider on end of conventional notch.
Would even try to slow down impact as it started going by grasping sides of target and leaning back to ease as much as possible to slide and down w/exaggerated clean, wide release of hands then(like circus showman), then grab top of stump etc.
.
Can push closer to hinge failure (pre-spooning)with sticks /bark in kerf that
>>breathe/move/speak as start to take load(stop cutting)
>>and then more guarantee keep back of kerf open(best leverage position from hinge/pivot)
.
Can't say if felling bar is red or orange.....
But can say if want to get out of picking something (so wife can counter choice, i must logically go first)
>>have learned to state color is involved and i will start by getting to be the one choosing that..
decision is then magically removed from my hands.....(sometimes literally).
(another "Nature, to be commanded, must be obeyed" theory usage! )
 
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Good discussion about felling bars (I do like that rounded forged one) and hilarious discussion of women, color and decisions... :lol:
 
A woman's bewitching beauty,
Can be all at once:
>> Heaven to the eyes,
>> Hell to the soul,
>> and Eternal raging Purgatory to the wallet !
said all in good fun of the richness of life of course...i claim..
.
Was doing phone computer support for Lady yesterday.
She just made an account minutes ago, forgot user name,
And he is catching hell for not knowing username, as he sits across the room...
i immediately liked him, cuz many days that poor suckah is me !
Claiming same poetic license of course..:big-no:
 
Don't place the half-hitch above the COG, unless you want to flip the piece (back to top, upwards) and increase forces.
 
Reverse pull of Half Hitch when past CoG; can pull open some from reversed direction of pull, then slide and jam into final hitch etc. with the inversion.
 
I keep a rising chisel in the truck. Takes less than a minute to tie on a scrap of throw line for a lanyard. Tips chunks, pries out stubborn face cuts, pulls nails, pries off junk people have nailed/screwed to their trees...real useful.

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