Is there something special about this saw.

[Ax-Man]

I would snag on it. Like Al stated earlier , lots of chainsaws around but a cut-of saw doesn't come around too often and is always good trading stock.

 

[Al Smith]

I've got two electric abrasive saws ,14" I picked up on the cheap at an auction .For some things they are fine .However on thick carbon steel they can heat the metal so much it gets hard as a rock almost impossible to machine .Stuff like that a bandsaw is better . Nice to have around though even for occasional stuff .

 

[Marc-Antoine]

found this "rail saw" for a cutting demo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoYBFrJDrlI&feature=related

But I'm pretty sure that the ones I saw on the rail-road in my town hadn't any clamp. Longer body for the blade too. Only free handling. Not obvious to cut those thick steel bars without jamming the abrasive blade.

 

[Ax-Man]

Wow, I never seen a saw do that. Pretty cool. I didn't think he was going to make it all the way to the end because of the guard.

I gave the old Homelite a try on the some thick wall tubing . Didn't really flinch at all. Acuraccy wasn't too bad either , not perfectly square but close enough for what I do. Having a way to hold the saw like the rail cutting saw would solve that problem.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Sure would come in handy for a fence I have in mind.. Rail made of well casing and steel pipe. I need to learn to weld and buy a welder though.

 

[Al Smith]

Rail is some tough stuff ,manganese alloy steel .The reason they where moving that saw about so much is two fold .First with that hard of steel it will glaze the wheel up so much it otherwise would quite cutting and two manganese steel "wear hardens " rapidly .It can get nearly as hard as carbide .

Not to drift off too much but people think they can weld this stuff with mild steel rod .Not so it takes a special rod and must be heated to black heat prior which is 900 to 1000 degrees then post heated for slow cool down afterwards .--hillbilly metalurgy 101 ---