Insect and bites

I think it was extremely hard because I use my legs to support my body for long periods of time, I use a short safety line without an adjustable rope grap. Well, I will no be making that again, will be using my 200' rope with a unicender. I am sure that will make a big difference . it took 3 days to recover.
 
867127a06792d1d4785d573d0e34ab90.jpg
 
My first two climbing tree removals were using a rock climbing harness (you know, weighs less than a pound), two rock climbing ropes adjusting the length with a clove hitch, screw lock biners on the waist belt, and a little Mac rear handle that I bought off a guy for $75. My water knot on my lanyard came untied, cyclic loading and unloading will do that. Nose diving saw... Watch out. Finished limbing and topping with tthe homeowners Electric chainsaw and a very long extension cord. my pride and joy at that point was my ms361. I learned about chunking down a tree that day and fire wood pieces. actually that was day two. now, I would probably do the same tree in three hours tops.
 
For the porpose of asking people with a idea of what the cost of equipment is. A New husqvama 450 rancher 20' blade, 475.00 with extended warranty of 4 years, I am resposable of tear and wear, they will fix mayor brakedown. I believe to be a great investment.
 
A good starting point.

There is a reason that pro's run pro saws.

Ranchers are for ranchers, and get the job done.
 
I remember when I went on a climbing course early in my career...I was black and blue and hurt in so many places I thought I'd fall apart.
But dammit, it was too much fun to give up.

Work smart, not hard...learn what labour and effort saving devices and techniques you can use, make your day go more smoothly, and less pain.
 
+1 - What she said

I have learned so much about that on this forum, it amazes me what I am able to do and how easily compared to when I first started. Technique is just as important as equipment, maybe more so, but Pro equipment does last longer and is more reliable.
 
Amen. Jose for another $250 you can get a saw that will outperform the rancher by leaps and bounds. Starting out I understand that money is tight but I would do whatever is necessary to buy a pro saw. You will thank yourself.
 
Ok, I hear you and it will make sence if I was growing my small business. The convention to regular at my day job, has reduce my time to a 1 long weekend per month, that reduce the income of the business. However still fostering the business from my paycheck. Just order some gear over $1200.00 ,Still willl be buying out pocket $750.00 on rope and pulleys and O rings... so the saw, cost$475.00 that is $120.00 per year insure, and full replacement if they can not fix it. Got . The recovery of investment will take longer. So now is the best for me to set the business.
 
Depends how big of stuff you have to rig. The biggest I have is 9/16 and I don't think I have ever pushed its limits rigging limbs or chunks, but I have not had to do negative rigging of a large trunk.
 
I think it was mentioned before that 1/2 will do a lot of work, rigging out large pieces will reqiure competent ground help.
 
My most used rigging line is actually smaller than 1/2, not sure what it is exactly and its but it has served me well and is super easy to work with. It will be replaced with a legit 1/2 rigging line soon as I have beat it up with some natural crotch rigging that it is not meant for.
 
Ok, so because I am trying to buy the most versatile 1st rigging rope, it will be nice to be avail to do this 4 things , 1. strong and flexible for lowering the entire trunk in a control manner. 2. perform well with the correct pulleys (pulleys, considering DMM SMALL) . 3dr work as a speed line for lowering branches. 4th function as a vertical speed line. There have to be a size and quality avail to handle the work. Eventually other ropes will assume some or those duties. For now, I need one that perform good on multiple conditions .

For the climbing and work on the tree , I set up the unisever with pulleys for use on a false crush set up.
20151205_173823.jpg
https://youtu.be/snrK8Fo--CA
 
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That looks to me like an overly complicated unicender setup. Is that so you can adjust the length from the unicender to your saddle?
 
1/2" Arbormaster is what I use (for rigging) about 90% of the time, Jose.
Have never tried vertical speed lining yet. Been doing this stuff for almost 30 years. Go figure.
 
If I's seeing that setup correctly, I recommend some adjustment. I made this sling for mine, it has a loop at the top to girth hitch to the unicender (about 5" from tip to the knot) am alpine butterfly to attach a carabiner to shorten your lead, and about 18" to the end of the lower loop to attach to your saddle. At first I girth hitched it to my saddle, but then I couldn't easily detach it to move around limbs in the tree so I started using a carabiner.

Here's the tether with no hardware
IMG_20151206_221808610.jpg

Now attached to the Unicender with the short position carabiner attached

IMG_20151206_221923024.jpg IMG_20151206_221923024.jpg

I leave it long to ascend using Drt

IMG_20151206_224031710.jpg

Then clip it short to work in the tree and to descend

IMG_20151206_224052622.jpg

Works well for Srt also

IMG_20151206_224132990.jpg
 
Have you thought about an adjustable tether cord system using a friction hitch, in place of a two position webbing system?
 
I had not thought of a friction hitch, that would probably work really well. I was thinking about an adjustable tether like I saw on youtube (Richard Mumford I think) but then I got a rope runner for the smoother let out while limb walking
 
Jose, 1/2" rigging line handles 90+ percent of rigging chores for us. TreeStuff has the Husky 1/2" bull rope pretty cheap, plus you get free shipping. It's plenty strong and a decent nylon core polyester cover rope that has a little stretch if that's what you're looking for. Just make sure to reverse the direction of the wraps on your lowering device every time until it's broken in.
 
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