hinge pics

I was enjoying a nice and quit forum with you on ignore, when you called me out to brag about your incredible treefalling skills.
Since then you have called the members here idiots........twice.

No wonder they love you so much at all the treeforums.

Or how is it with that, you still haven't told me of a treeforum where they don't laugh at you or down right despise you.
Not that I haven't asked you since forever.

Back on ignore.
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Daniel, don't bother to answer this, I have put you back on ignore.

Why do you think it is, that every time you post your grandstanding videos or pictures of your absolutely groundbreaking, out of the box, simply out of the reach of us mere mortals, work, either here or at the other forums, people lambast you for shoddy work or simply laugh at you.
Then, when you do one of your: " I am the greatest, I have done things you have never dreamed about, I taught Jerry Beranek about stump shot..........etc........etc........etc!!!!", they tell you to go see a psychiatrist.

Is it really because ALL the members of ALL the tree forums are , and I quote: " A bunch of idiots", or could it maybe be because your unlovely combination of lack of skills and Dunning-Kruger syndrome makes you the biggest tree falling joke in the World?

Think on it a bit.
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All you do is throw mud... that's low, but hard to beat. Fortunately, I don't care what you or your cronies think... I throw up a hinge pic, which could be a valuable topic for discussion, and you talk trash. PERIOD.
Since you don't care, and you get nothing but silence or ridicule when you post anything here regarding tree work...might it not perhaps register that you'd be happier if you refrained from posting?
Nothing hurt but my pride.....
Dropped a dead Ash spar today, top gone, 18" at the cut, 1 of 5 from a big ass stump. Other stems in the way on both sides. Not ideal conditions.
Should've notched it to swing about 30°, nope, 10° is fine, just enough to clear the fork oak 25' away.

Dumb ass.

Back cut was just heavy enough on the wrong side to drop the damn thing right into the crotch on the oak.

Another day ridin' the struggle bus....

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this fat hinge used a plate cut and sizwheel on white ash at about 45 feet height. my buddy made the cut. I explained it and demonstrated the sizwheel in about a minute just before he went up.

we agreed that he would move away from the cut and move over to the other side of the tree before we pulled with the loader 20211206_145827.jpg
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You have a lot of interestingly shaped trees down there. My yard would be full of "treasure" if I was cutting that stuff.
Leaning dead 90ft Euc, 30" dia.
used 660 with 36" 3/8 semi chisel.

went for a deeper face as I wanted the hinge to be as wide as possible, under cut the felling notch and worked up to it as i didnt want to have to then go deeper if I over shot, and i rarely get it first go anyway, also a thinner hinge, as there was decay not far above the cutting area.
Bore cut, sort hinge, and then cut towards the back and set 2 wedges, then continue till the holding wood let go.

treedown.jpg treedown660.jpg treedowncut.jpg treedownstump.jpg
Gap face on red oak. 80’ spar after the top was dropped. Very slight lean towards the drop zone. 395xp with 28” bar. Honestly, I did a gap face because I dutchmaned the face cut and I was already kinda deep so the gap was the solution. I do like the bored gap over the “smack it out with the axe” gap.


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The downside to the bored gap is that you almost always will be severing some of the fibers of the hinge. Depending on how the grain runs, it might be negligible, or it might be significant.

“smack it out with the axe” gap...I like it! That method usually avoids this risk.
The downside to the bored gap is that you almost always will be severing some of the fibers of the hinge. Depending on how the grain runs, it might be negligible, or it might be significant.

“smack it out with the axe” gap...I like it! That method usually avoids this risk.
I don’t follow? You know more than me, guaranteed, so I’d go back to the axe but I’m having trouble visualizing what you’re saying. Can you elaborate please?
If the vertical fibers where the hinge is located are perfectly in line with (by that I mean parallel to) the saw bar as you bore, then there are no fibers of the hinge that are cut by the chain, or not enough to matter at all. So, in that case the bore method works as well as the axe method. But trees seldom are so accommodating :).

Now, if those fibers run tilted towards the gap, then the bore will cut some of the hinge off, leaving a thinner functioning hinge than you think you have formed. If those fibers run tilted away from the gap, then you are leaving a thicker functioning hinge than you think you have made.

If those fibers tilt sideways to the gap, then you are likely to cut through more on one end of the hinge than the other, so it will function like the hinge is thicker on one end than the other...again not what you think you have formed up.

Any of these can throw off the direction of the fell from your gun.
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@Burnham thank you for the explanation. A more natural cleaving of the fibers is produced by the axe which leaves more holding wood on the front face of the hinge intact. The more “non vertical” the hinge fibers are, the more this would negatively affect the fell. The more fiber orientation variations over the front face, the worse the outcome.