Hardnose/Duromatic Chainsaw Bars

[stehansen]

Bamboo is real good for holding a riverbank together.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Just bringing this thread back to life.....

I like using a bar with a narrow tip on a saw for limbing, it seems a bit faster and easier to manipulate in and around a limb crotch to get a close shave next to the trunk....also like the feel and balance of the small tip.
One problem though, is that the narrower bars with the smaller tip that I've found, are cheap one rivet laminated bars, probably made by Oregon, and on a saw with anything over 35ccs, or maybe it's the higher reving saw I'm using, but the sprocket tip blows out fast. They seem to burn up real quick. I'm using 3/8 pitch lo-profile chain on my limbing saw, don't much go for any gauge smaller, but it does occur that a smaller gauge might be easier on a smaller tip....

I modified a hardnose Stihl Duromatic bar to work on my Husky limbing saw, the tip is tapered nicely. It seems like a good use for a hardnose bar, and I'm not really noticing much of a drop in chain speed.

Any treehousers liking a more tapered tip bar on smaller displacement saws...I'm wondering what you're using?

 

[wiley_p]

I had to spit my oatmeal on the floor. Its funny for some reason that grown men were asking what brushing is. I'm glad the question was asked, it still made me smile.

 

[Al Smith]

. I'm using 3/8 pitch lo-profile chain on my limbing saw, don't much go for any gauge smaller, but it does occur that a smaller gauge might be easier on a smaller tip....

Well really there isn't anything other than 1/4" that is smaller than 3/8" lo pro /pico ,whatever . Unless it's that little itty bitty stuff for a pole saw .

 

[Stumper]

Jay, FWIW, I use those cheapies on a 40cc saw without problems. I suspect that you may be running the chain a little too tight or tend to pry with the barnose.

 

[Bodean]

I've split a few oregon tips with a 346.

I used the 88 with the 47" hardnose today, no problemo, sliced right through a euc stump.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Jay, FWIW, I use those cheapies on a 40cc saw without problems. I suspect that you may be running the chain a little too tight or tend to pry with the barnose.

I do a lot of bore cuts when doing crane aided removals. We have a system going at the stump that entails an initial bore cut. If it's a relatively small tree, I just use the limbing saw that has the cheapo laminated bar. That seems to be really hard on those sprocket noses, maybe a reason that they wear out so quick.

I like to run my chains on the tight side, but not so tight that you can't easily pull them around by hand. Could be a factor, as you mention. What pitch chain do you run, Stumper?

 

[Stumper]

3/8ths low profile 50 gauge. (though I do have one carving bar set up with 1/4) Bore cutting would stress the nose more-I seldom bore with my climbing saw.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Bore cutting would stress the nose more-I seldom bore with my climbing saw.

Especially in hard oak, which is what fried the nose the last time. I imagine a lot of heat gets generated, especially in a saw tuned to run at 13,500 revs.

 

[Husky D]

Hi
I was under the impression that the solid nose bars were better for really extreme conditions or heavy boring or nose work as others have said. Down side was the slightly slower cutting speed if your tension is wrong whereas the sprocket noses help keep this up while lessening friction. Also on the really long bars there is an alot of pressure being placed on that sprocket tip. Not sure if they are all stellite tipped the hard nosed bars but if they are you usally need a caborundum sharpening stone to take off the burrs rather than a normal flat file.

 

[Al Smith]

You just dress the bar with a belt sander ,works like a charm .

I don't know what the big deal is with a hardnose anyway . They were around long before a sprocket nose was ever even thought of . They just need more oil and a tad less tension .

 

[Raj]

How would a hardnose work with milling?

 

[Marc-Antoine]

I guess that you need all both the power and the oiling you can get for milling. The hard nose takes some out. The sprocket nose seems better suited.

 

[Raj]

I'm having a tough time finding a sprocket bar in my area, 42" or longer.

May be I'd install a helper handle with a roller.
What bearing goes in them?

 

[flushcut]

I would think milling with a hardnose bar would be bad. Have you tried ebay for bars? That's where I got both of my Cannons used and reconditioned.

 

[Raj]

Ebay Canada has none, Ebay rest of world has many, but won't ship to Canada or the shipping cost is extremely high.

 

[flushcut]

Bummer

 

[Merle Nelson]

Peter do you really want a 42" hardnose bar?

I/one of us, could have one shipped to us and re-ship to you.

 

[Raj]

I'd prefer a sprocket. I just have a couple hard nose I might be able to get up here, not the best prices.

Our Canadian dollar sucks, $1cad buys 77 cents US, plus brokerage for shipping.

Thanks for the offer! I think it would only make sence on a used or discounted bar.

 

[Merle Nelson]

Okay, let me know if you find one.

"Saw King" out of oregon has had used 090/088 bars. He is on youtube a lot - oh, Myrtle Creek Saw Shop. You could call them and see what's available.

Willie of SOTC fame was hunting up 090 bars about a year ago. He might have gotten one that doesn't really fit his needs anymore but would work just right for you.

 

[Raj]

Thanks!

A bit of a political rant from me, the world always seems down on the US, even from up here, but for crying out loud, if there is ever a place that has a widget, part or equipment the US has it, for a decent price, but our Canadian system puts it out of reach from the average guy (money wise). That does mean something, at least to me.

 

[Merle Nelson]

Thanks for the compliment to the USA. That does mean something, at least to me.