grinding chipper knives

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #27
Sean, couldn't find anything on the Bandit grinder. Only thing I found was a video showing Bandit's in house grinding service.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/665Bap9aSO8" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also found a few videos on youtube showing variations on my hand held disc sander method and an overpriced Dremel type setup called 'Bevel Buddy'.
 
http://www.morbark.com/wp-content/uploads/Bevel-Buddy-Brochure-web.pdf

Lists bandit 200 or 250, so its not just giant whole tree chippers.

3 times of touch-ups between grinding.


I just use a hand-held accusharp one, periodically, like a chainsaw, before it is noticeably dull. Keep it sharp more than get it sharp.
I guess I change blades every 6-8 months, chipping less than the average full-time tree company. Fair bit of pruning, and occasional Put On Ground Only.


Whatever the timeframe, its under $15 well spent. I've considered some woven metal, safety gloves like some butchers use. Usually just leather gloves, and pinch the handle between finger tips and thumb, keeping my fingers farther back. I sharpen through the feed tray, so its a little awkward. Only a little.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #29
Yes, I have the accusharp deal but my issue is that on my drum chipper I can only use it a few times and then it changes the bevel enough that the brush bounces off the face of the blade instead of catching the edge. Then it won't feed into the chipper and everything becomes a major ordeal to get it to chip. This is why I quit using the accusharp and just use the flap disc on my grinder. I need to hit the entire edge, not just the last 1/16".

And the Bevel Buddy you linked is an overpriced Dremel. It's only $50 less than the Neary blade grinder and won't do as good of a job. It's basically a powered Accusharp tool.
 
We found the same thing with our smaller chipper Brian. So for a long time we just touched those blades up with emory until we got a wet grinder. If they got too buggered from metal or something, then we would send them out. Or in my case, run them over to my guy down the hwy. But those blades were small, not enough table on the grinder for an 8" blade and be able to keep it somewhat true.
I think my guy here is still cheaper in the long run than me doing it myself. And I don't have a lot of time these days for shop time. Kids run me ragged with activities these days. Plus running my show. Sometimes I wonder if I whiped my ass enough as I run out the door again.
Point being, how much money is your time worth and what could you use that time for.
I guess you need to get a price first. :)
 
The shop where we had ours sharpened had a huge machine, maybe 8' long. It went real slow squirting lubricant the entire time and he'd grind all the blades to perfect matching angles that would last a surprisingly long time. I always wondered how much that machine cost.
 
I gave up on sending them out for sharpening many years ago. Just put new ones in every 6 months or so. Never have to reset the cutter bar since the new knives are always the same size.
 
Seems wasteful in my frugal opinion , I bought a few extras and send them when dull. All the while I never touch the Anvil clearance , just makes a slightly bigger chip. I'll feel better tossing them after they don't measure for a grind.
 
Altissimus said:
Seems wasteful in my frugal opinion , I bought a few extras and send them when dull. All the while I never touch the Anvil clearance , just makes a slightly bigger chip. I'll feel better tossing them after they don't measure for a grind.
Click to expand...



The way I’m thinking, not keeping an anvil tight would cost more in fuel, and possibly more wear and year on a machine.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #42
After messing around with my chipper and changing the bed knife, I discovered it isn't hard at all to adjust it. Takes less than 5 minutes with an impact and two wrenches.
 
Fuel plus wear and tear are not increased as far as I can tell , just the chip size. Tossing knives would be like tossing chains to me. Invest , use , file , use again ...repeat
 
MasterBlaster said:
Why don't you have them sharpened, Brett?
Click to expand...

A few years back, I had a Morbark 15 self-destruct when a knife broke while chipping. A scary experience with sharp metal flying in all directions. It was a knife that had been sharpened at least once or twice. I don't know if the knife was defective from the start or if it was compromised by the sharpening process. After that, I decided to just put new knives in whenever they got dull or damaged. We're careful about what goes into the chipper; no rakings and we leave the trap door under the feed wheels open.
 
And THAT made you give up on sharpening them? Really???

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Brian. I don't understand Brian.

Because I've never owned an expensive piece of equipment I have no idea what I'm talking/asking about.
 
Gotta do what it takes to set your mind at ease. I often think about extra precautions I take and steps I go through to have me feel comfortable with a situation. I know some people wouldn't do it and would save a few extra moments per job that way. I purposely choose to waste X, because, that's what it takes for me.

Conversely when I was in my 20's I rebuilt a 16 inch chuck and duck that had metal go through it and tear up a bunch of things including the knife beds. I used a fabulous metal epoxy product called Devcon to make the surfaces flat again and installed the existing bolts back in with new knives once all was cured. Knowing what I do today I would trash that machine.
 
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