Full Wrap vs. 3/4 Wrap?

[Jonny]

Ordered an aftermarket 3/4 wrap. It's made for 044/ ms440 but lots of people make them fit smaller saws. I'm going to put it on my 036 pro and see how I like it.
Pretty sure it'll be the only one in town.

 

[cory]

Cory if you are doing this by switching hands. Remember every time you run a saw left handed it is not how the saw was designed. .

Ha, just saw this 1+ years later.

Na. I can switch hit too, no problem, but rarely need to. In the NE here, I've never felt the need to have full wrap. Doh, never tried one either.

 

[Stumpshot]

And what do Danish loggers use? If PNW is full wrap and ultra-long bars, I'd like to know what Patron Saints use with their short bars...

 

[cory]

Definitely half wrap

 

[Jonny]

I might really like this style handle for climbing.
This one was 28$ lol and looks the part.
See the big unnecessary plastic part?

 

[SeanKroll]

Steep hills sorta necessitate a full-wrap for ergonomics.

Denmark is mentioned to be flat-flat.

 

[squisher]

Ha, just saw this 1+ years later.

Na. I can switch hit too, no problem, but rarely need to. In the NE here, I've never felt the need to have full wrap. Doh, never tried one either.

My point being Cory that when you switch hit as you put it so adeptly. Don't forget that when your left hand is on the trigger and right hand on the handlebar kickback is much more likely to be directed towards you then away from you. Because chainsaws are designed as a right handed tool. That's all. I'm left handed. I can run a saw backwards no problem, I never chose to unless there's a good reason to. Because that's not how the tool was designed to be used.

3/4 wrap is handy for nearly always maintaining proper body position and avoiding backchaining no matter which side of the tree you're felling from. Some people don't care about backchaining which has been discussed on here a bunch too. But if memory serves backchaining on your bc fallers cert test results in a fail. Take that for what it's worth.

 

[cory]

My point being Cory that when you switch hit as you put it so adeptly.


..if memory serves backchaining on your bc fallers cert test results in a fail. Take that for what it's worth.

That was your term from earlier, give yourself some credit.

I did not know that re the BC faller cert. If true, that explains a lot.

Steep hills sorta necessitate a full-wrap for ergonomics.

Denmark is mentioned to be flat-flat.

+10

 

[stig]

No way you can make the low stumps we are required to with a full wrap.

 

[cory]

How low do the stumps need to be? Do they give a formula based on diameter?

 

[pete mctree]

Knuckles in the dirt low I bet. - same here on commercial felling sites

 

[cory]

That sucks!

 

[Jonny]

Sure looks funny laying on it's side when adding fuel and oil.

 

[Burnham]

We call that looking normal, Johnny .

 

[SeanKroll]

Stig, be that as it may about stump height, do you/ have you used full-wraps ever? Logging in Switzerland?

 

[stig]

Once in California.

How low do the stumps need to be? Do they give a formula based on diameter?

Half the height of the root flares.

On Beech there is a good reason to go low.
The logs tend to split after a short while.
That renders them useless for veneer peeling.
Keeping the low buttress on the log, with it's convoluted grain, helps hold the log together.

Once it has been in the cooker at the veneer plat, they cut it off.

So it is not just plain silliness and tradition.

 

[SeanKroll]

That's not that low, is it?




Would the full-wrap bump into the flares?

 

[Burnham]

Stig says it does, in more than one post to the subject in the past, both recent and old. I believe him.

Hereabouts, we get by with a 12 inch stump requirement for logging on USFS lands; one can get there with full wrap handles without problems for the vast proportion of hand felling. That's not as low as Denmark, but not all that high either . PNW conifers are apparently more forgiving regarding propensity to split if looked at sideways .

 

[Jonny]

A hair under 3" added width.
No biggie if you can just grab a different saw off the truck. Probably a biggie if you gotta trek through the woods with a single saw and get the stump low.

 

[Burnham]

The latter is of course the situation for loggers. And you have to appreciate the form that the primary valuable species Stig falls takes, the beeches...those very wide-spread multiple root flares are a special challenge.

If I had to fall western red cedar (a species with pronounced root flares, aka "knees" hereabouts) to the spec he does...eff me, I'd be wishing I could run a standard handle saw...while knowing the damned steep slopes would kill, if I made that choice.

 

[SeanKroll]

I may misunderstand.

I don't gather half the height of the flare. Is that saying if the buttress roots extend 6 inches away from the core of the stump, which may be 20" across, you need to cut 3" off the dirt?

 

[biggun]

Sounds about right Sean.

I have never even seen let alone held a full/3 quarter wrap handle in the flesh.

Only in pictures.

 

[stig]

Those flares are the reason I gave up on running big dogs on my felling saws.
They really got in the way when I was cutting low, so I gave them away to some Treehouser.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

Sounds about right Sean.

I have never even seen let alone held a full/3 quarter wrap handle in the flesh.

Only in pictures.

Same for me. But two or three times in 10 years, I could had appreciate this handle : right side access only to the tree with a felling cut both too high to be done backchaining and too low for regular chaining. Well, at least it's clear in my mind

 

[squisher]

Once you go wrap....there's no going back.

In the tree it's superior for all the same reasons it is on the ground. No backchaining and able to use the dogs properly no matter which side of the tree/cut you're on. You can always use the saw in the safest most efficient configuration no matter which side you're on.