Final ground level cut on stump video?

[Blinky]

God bless her soul.

 

[Al Smith]

I don't have any vids on a stump Bob .About the only thing I have is a pic of a close cut hickory that's about as low as possible and took me quite awhile to do as the root spread was 5 feet .

I've got pics of an oak that had over 9 feet of spread if you need them.

 

[MasterBlaster]

You all think I'm an asshole, and I think the same about you!

Not a single person here has called you that, Daniel. That earned you a two week ban. Enjoy.

 

[Bermy]

Wow, that's the first video I've been able to watch.
Face cut is boshed up, gut is off centre and low, and WHAT's with the stepped back cut to leave vertical fibres to tear?

Trunk like that, set a pull line, z rig if necessary, come along if really necessary, high lift wedge and DONE, no stress no strain.
Here's a photo...the cut on the side is to sever the cambium, stop it frim tearing up the side of the hinge...

To get the stump low, I'll quarter it and flush cut the quarters, especially if it's bigger than my bar.

 

[sawinredneck]

But what is cutting edge, new and daring with that? That's tried and true, not thinking outside the box!

 

[canadiantreeman]

I mean, tree cutting is a realatively new profession, and only a few masters exist. Luckily one of them is gracious enough to provide us with endless examples of his mastery and debating skills. One could say he's a master debater.

 

[sawinredneck]

I like to fish, and I can bait the hell out of a hook.

 

[Bermy]

But what is cutting edge, new and daring with that? That's tried and true, not thinking outside the box!

Oh, I forgot, only super different awesome almost kill you techniques count, sorry...:what:

 

[sawinredneck]

Now you are catching on, DUH!!

 

[SoonerFan]

Spoken like a true Baiting Master.

 

[sawinredneck]

I was waiting for a comment on that one!

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Wow, that's the first video I've been able to watch.
Face cut is boshed up, gut is off centre and low, and WHAT's with the stepped back cut to leave vertical fibres to tear?

Trunk like that, set a pull line, z rig if necessary, come along if really necessary, high lift wedge and DONE, no stress no strain.
Here's a photo...the cut on the side is to sever the cambium, stop it frim tearing up the side of the hinge...

To get the stump low, I'll quarter it and flush cut the quarters, especially if it's bigger than my bar.

How can you justify a huge cost if you don't bring in a ton of overhead. A set of wedges only costs a few $10s of dollars, and doesn't require a big truck and trailer to haul to the site, and you can't save the dump fee for the butt cut, that could easily be quartered (or more) and chipped.


If you aren't making the money to cover the skid steer overhead, you might not HAVE TO remove so many trees. You'd have a hammer, but not have nails to hit with it.

I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out what trees need my winch for their needs.

 

[SkwerI]

If your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Now I have "If I had a hammer" playing in my head.. Guess I will be stuck with that most the day

 

[sawinredneck]

If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer! It should work most times!

 

[Blinky]

...and if your only tool is a skid steer... everything looks like it needs pulling or pushing.




"Don't break that rope!"

 

[sawinredneck]

I found this jewel on youtube as well. Again, why not just lower the face cut and make a normal back cut? Seems like it makes a lot more work out of a simple fall?

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[Blinky]

...and look at how fast the spar is moving when it hits. I guarantee he makes bigger divots with the snap cut than he would with a simple felling cut.

... and that's all the hell it is... a snap cut with a face, I've done that at height a few times when we had to pull a top rather than pitching it... gee, I wonder if I invented it before he did?

The Arbtalk thread was amusing. At least now he openly admits he'll only answer questions at his pleasure regardless of whether they're pertinent or not. I think that means, if you ask him a question he can't legitimately answer, he considers you an enemy and tells everyone you called him names.

 

[sawinredneck]

I can see places, few and far between, where a cut like that MIGHT give more control to the direction of fall. It either has to go over or come back at you from what I see. But with the fiber pull all hinge control seems to be lost, it's pulling the hinge rather than using the fiber to control the fall. Or am I wrong?
Then the added force needed to pull the spar over must be tremendous! Once it's on it's way it can pitch and twist any way it wants because the hinge is gone and it has a lot of momentum behind it now.
Or am I wrong on this thought?

 

[Blinky]

I was thinking along those lines too. A snap cut is supposed to break instantly, no hinge no uncut fiber. That means the hinge he's leaving takes all the bending suddenly, it's not progressive. The fiber has less time to slip and bend which is how the hinge stays intact rather than just snapping. IMO he has less hinge control over direction but velocity and momentum make up for it... It's just the opposite of what I want from a live tree. I want them to go over nice and slow and lay down gracefully.

 

[Al Smith]

Dano use some very strange methods .

 

[bruce6670]

I can't believe he tried that shit so close to the house. I think he's running out of luck with his advanced methods. Hope nobody's watching these videos and trying this stuff thinking it's a safer way. You Tube is a bad place to learn.

 

[brendonv]

I'm all about trying new shit, but when trying something new takes longer than the tried and true, then whats to gain? A lower stump to grind? Cut it, sheesh.

 

[sotc]

One thing that crossed my mind is how that would react to a wedge. That low back cut actually wants to slide back rather than lift so a wedge would fight the hinge, actually try to lift the hinge

 

[Bermy]

I'd love to see him go for his medium tree felling assessment in the UK with those techniques...
I do not see how having a huge low backcut is of any advantage in controlling the fall, the force needed to pull and separate the fibres completely overcomes the safety margins. By all means use a skidsteer, or any vehicle, but it should only be for the initial, dare I say 'gentle' pull to commit the trunk...not a honkin' haul ass, 'don't break the rope' all or nothing yank!
'Finesse' is not out of place in tree work.