Engine help, Cat 3126 turbo diesel

Will do, it definetly is running cooler with the rad blown out, I'd left it to long. Lots of dust and bits floating around at times.
 
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  • #27
Mine was plugged on the inside. I kept blowing and washing out the fins but it would overheat at the drop of a hat. 3-4 red lights then accelerating to 50 would put me in the hot zone. Tow, new radiator plus a new fuel injector pump put my repair total at about $3600. That was last November I think. Looks like this year's big repair is going to be a new turbo. :(
 
Mine is running one tick shy of 210. But it's been pretty hot air temp wise. Im changing oil. New air filters tomorrow and washing out the radiator as well. Made up a little 90 degree nozzle to slide between the intercooler and the radiator.
 
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  • #30
Scott, mine ran at 210 for a couple years as well. With the new radiator it runs much cooler, right at 195 and never gets any hotter no matter what I do.

Stephen, I'm planning on it. I need to get the numbers off the turbo tomorrow and begin searching.
 
Should be an easy performance upgrade to a point and then you might have to chip up... I wanna see that truck lay down some rubber :lol:
You probably already know about the compression requirements for the pressures you might get into as you shop. Could be some fun bro :D
 
I wouldn't be sold on a new turbo just yet, it may still be the injectors as mentioned earlier! There will be some slop in the bearings, more than you and I think they need, but this is due to the extreme heat they have to contend with, these parts have to expand, and have room to do so, a LOT!!
 
Skwerl also rebuilding the turbo is very easy. I got a rebuild kit for my chipper turbo for $60 and it takes about a n hour to. Do
 
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  • #36
Thanks Andy. I drove the truck about 80 miles today and now the turbo is covered in oil. I guess that answers that! I asked two mechanics about rebuilding the turbo and both of them recommended against it, saying a rebuilt unit was the way to go. I just got back from the yard where I tried to get the numbers off the tag but I couldn't read them. I took 4 pictures with my phone but they all came out blurry. Now I'm heading back again and will attempt taking pictures of the tag with my digital camera so I can hopefully get the numbers and start searching for a replacement.
 
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  • #38
I found some old online discussions from 3-4 years ago and in three different cases I found that about $550 was the going rate for a rebuilt turbo. Even with some inflation added that's an easy pill to swallow. I just need to get the numbers and find one. Heck, I'll probably swap it out myself.
 
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  • #39
Success! Got the numbers, along with plenty of oily evidence that the turbo is shot. This was completely dry yesterday, although I had noted a tiny bit of oil seepage around the back side looking at it with a mirror.

IMG_2182Copy.jpg

IMG_2185Copy.jpg

IMG_2186Copy.jpg


I'm going to start Googling and I have the name of a local place, but if anybody can recommend a good supply house for this unit please speak up.

Got a bunch of hits on Google but they all lead to identical looking websites with identical prices, $895 plus $200 core (or $1095 for a "new" one).
 
Skwerl, not to doubt you but I don't necessarily see why oil seepage from the turbo means its bad?? Basically you have a shaft with 2 bushings on it that is bathed in a constant flow of engine oil, oil is pumped in the top and flows by gravity out the bottom. Even if the turbo is bad and seized it will not make the unit leak, just like the unit leaking won't make the turbo bad... I know you need to fix the problem but don't want you to throw money away. Just thinking aloud really.
 
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  • #41
How about the horrible noises it's making, the lack of power and the smell of burning oil? I have two good mechanics and neither one of them is willing to rebuild this turbo. Both recommend replacement. The oil leakage today is just more evidence that the unit is shot. It wasn't leaking before today but it was still acting badly enough that I knew I had a problem.
 
Never picked up on bad noises it was making. Stop driving the truck else you could suck in some vanes and fillings and trash the motor.....
 
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  • #44
 
Yah I wouldn't be driving it around Brian, espescially if lots of oil is leaking around the turbo. I remember from my air-course up here oil around the turbo is a big red-flag during a pre-trip inspection. Supposedly one of the leading causes of underhood fires.
 
I'd be more concerned with scattering it and running it through the intake like Paul said
 
For sure, but checking your pressure or supply line for the turbo and in general all around the turbo for oil is something that should be done everytime the hood is opened or it can light you up. Just pointing that out as well for those who may not know.
 
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