Cut stump treatments?


Jan 15, 2011
Delavan, WI
Howdy, so the title says it all for the most part. What do all y’all like for cut stump treatments?
In general we will just tear out the offending vegetation and haven’t used any chemicals in a long time but have a job that we can’t do that. For what ever reason is beyond my understanding of the HO mind but alas there it is.
Few years back a New Hampshire Tree company working for the State was looking for climbers to rappel down highway rock cuts (the Granite State , has some really good ones) to manage tree growth , sounded good but ... after cutting they required a chemical application on the cut stump ... not appealing aloft or on the ground
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What's the objective, Rajan? Get the stump to rot fast, or to stop resprouting. Something else?
It is for buckthorn and a few smaller trees. The guy wants a better view of the lake mostly understory growth nothing over 4”. He wants to avoid run off sediment. So not resprouting and rotting fast would be a win win.
Well, for what it's worth...a few times over the years, I've removed willow trees that were either not attractive or where I wanted to plant some red cedar in my riparian area. As we all know, willow is a prolific resprouter. So I ALOPed the tree, then put down some black plastic sheeting over the stump. Maybe a 3x3 foot piece for a 10 inch stump. Covered it with several inches of a mix of soil, leaves, moss. Wood chips would have worked.

Never resprouted. After several years I retrieved the plastic. The stump was not rotted away, but it was getting there. Gone now, after many more years. Of course, willow rots easily, once dead.

Might be something to consider. It would help with surface erosion too, I think.
Stump grinder, no chimical, no resprout and rots quick.
If it isn't a rock clif that is.
And it may not work for poplars and black locust (root sprouting)
Copper kills things including fungus, so the stump may not rot if treated with copper. Can you cut any major roots with a chainsaw? Making an ALAP cut and leaving the top of the stump on with a thin layer of sawdust in between (usually enough sawdust is left in the kerf from the stump cut), that lets fungus quickly rot the stump. It might help to lift off the top of the stump you cut off and put a bunch of plant food fertilizer grains down, then put the top of the stump back on. The high chemical content might kill the stump, and the nitrogen will feed decomposers. I don't know if phosphorus and potassium help decomposition, so lawn fertilizer, which is mostly just concentrated nitrogen might be best. There have been some stump rotting products that work this way. You might still need something to keep it from resprouting.
Obviously depends on how far from the lake, his view is not worth harming it, but make sure it is a non-mobile agent. Triclopyr(garlon) is common in stump treatments but it can be an amine or ester with the latter iirc being mobile and long half-life. Roundup custom is listed for aquatic zones and has a short half-life. Timing of year matters with the application, some invasive mgmt docs recommend cutting a couple times in a growing season then cut-stump in fall when energy is headed to roots. Read msds(!!!) of whatever you decide on regardless of what the label or professional applicator says, it's the horses mouth on toxicity. My go to is cooperative extension publications for the specific target.
Basic Tordon and garlon 4 (ester) are both no go for ground water and aquatic, garlon 3 (amine) is listed. Half-life can be long with both too.
I heard from a friend, not me, no no no, but my friend who is real sometimes puts brake fluid, not much, just on the cambium all the way around the stump. That's what I heard. From a friend. Not me.
Few years back a New Hampshire Tree company working for the State was looking for climbers to rappel down highway rock cuts (the Granite State , has some really good ones) to manage tree growth , sounded good but ... after cutting they required a chemical application on the cut stump ... not appealing aloft or on the ground
I did exactly this for a whioe week around a World Heritage listed national park island. Rappell down, cut trees treat stumps with Garlon. They were Casuarina, massively invasive and destructive in Bermuda and known to prolifically resprout. None of the stumps resprouted. spray bottle in a pouch, waterproof gloves. Had to be done.
Did two more quicker visits over the years for seedlings.
I bought my 150t for that job, Gary sourced it for me, it's still going strong.
A picture of me doing it made it into the Wesspur catalogue 😁
Was shown to make tic-tac-toe grid in stump with saw to promote rot.
>> i look at as running Doc Shigo model for clean cut and seal backwards
>> Purposely leaving nooks and crannies of open AND larger surface area usually prescribed against to extrude opposite effect than usual target
>> Inviting rather than preventing infestation, sometimes even drilling these ports to hold more rain over time and hide/protect nasties.
Been also taught to use Buttermilk as active inoculation and food start, into drilled holes or other ruffed area.
Covering with tarp to also light starve stump as incubate and protect nasties .
Roundup made for foliar feed to spray weedy treeline killing weeds but not absorb thru tree bark clearing only weeds/leaving trees. Sometimes fresh cut stump and paint roundup into exposed vascular before seals as going into warming of day to speed absorption, just for kill.
Roundup like that + tarp alone over time for eradicating bamboo, a very, very tuff weed like competitor that some loose pieces sprout even after grinding. 3years seems to do it, pushed past point of no return.
In tropical Florida have seen in many woods with such healthy mycorrhizal network that connects to feed downed branches occasionally translocating resources from others to it so well that branch lives. The mycorrhizal system strategies are studied for computer networking improvements. Life struggles to persist as can.
We use eco plugs - plugs filled with glyphosate that are put into predrilled holes in the stump. We use them near waterways and sites where runoff would be unacceptable