mardenm
TreeHouser
How chewed up does a chainsaw sprocket have to be before you want to replace it ?
Chainsaw Sprocket
- Thread starter mardenm
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HolmenTree
Banned
Today's rim sprockets have" wear marks" lasered onto the radial surface, when these marks are worn away it's time for a new sprocket.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Your's is a spur type sprocket. Rim and drum type sprockets (replaceable sprocket keeping the surrounding drum and spline) have lines incised in them near the slots. When the lines get worn away, time to replace the sprocket. Kind of hard to see, but it couldn't hurt to replace the one you have.
HolmenTree
Banned
Time for a new sprocket drum.....well past it's lifespan.
Looks like a 3/8" Lo Pro top handle saw setup.
Looks like a 3/8" Lo Pro top handle saw setup.
mardenm
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #6
Yes, exactly. You always amaze me. Is there anything you don't know ?
This is my first saw - a MAC3516. It's in need of a good cleaned up.
The Oregon Parts look up says is uses the Consumer Sprocket 29888. Is the same as the "106906X Oregon Consumer Spur Sprocket" on TreeStuff http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=368&item=5773 ?
This is my first saw - a MAC3516. It's in need of a good clean up and tuning.
The Oregon Parts look up says is uses the Consumer Sprocket 29888.
Is this the same as the "106906X Oregon Consumer Spur Sprocket" on TreeStuff:
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=368&item=5773 ?
-Michael
Actually, the Oregon site says the MAC3516 uses a "Oregon 90 series chain types (3/8" low profile)". This sounds more like the other consumer sprocket on Tree Stuff
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=368&item=408
They both look the same and have the same description. Can you tell me the difference between them ?
Thanks.
This is my first saw - a MAC3516. It's in need of a good cleaned up.
The Oregon Parts look up says is uses the Consumer Sprocket 29888. Is the same as the "106906X Oregon Consumer Spur Sprocket" on TreeStuff http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=368&item=5773 ?
This is my first saw - a MAC3516. It's in need of a good clean up and tuning.
The Oregon Parts look up says is uses the Consumer Sprocket 29888.
Is this the same as the "106906X Oregon Consumer Spur Sprocket" on TreeStuff:
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=368&item=5773 ?
-Michael
Actually, the Oregon site says the MAC3516 uses a "Oregon 90 series chain types (3/8" low profile)". This sounds more like the other consumer sprocket on Tree Stuff
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=368&item=408
They both look the same and have the same description. Can you tell me the difference between them ?
Thanks.
HolmenTree
Banned
Both sprocket drums are 3/8 Lo Pro. The last # you gave has no crank bearing specs so can't say for sure. Just go with Oregon's #.
Magnus
TreeHouser
X if there is no bearing.
The ones without X usually have a pressed bearing in drum or a loose in box.
The ones without X usually have a pressed bearing in drum or a loose in box.
Magnus
TreeHouser
106906X is for Echo 3000, 3400, 3450.
29888 is for Mac 110/130/140, MiniMac 25/30, PM310/320/330/340/364/374/&394/484/494/510, Titan 35/40/7.500
29888 is for Mac 110/130/140, MiniMac 25/30, PM310/320/330/340/364/374/&394/484/494/510, Titan 35/40/7.500
Szajer
alive with pleasure
I'll replace mine every two to three chains.
Mick!
TreeHouser
Every 2 chains! I can honestly say I hardly ever replace the sprocket. I never even look at them. Doesn't seem to be a problem. On my huskys or the stihls.
what are the consequences of using a worn sprocket?
what are the consequences of using a worn sprocket?
HolmenTree
Banned
A worn out drive sprocket [the bar's sprocket nose included] will damage a new chain where the side strap and drive inks peen over causing the chain to "kink" causing the links and cutters to stick in one position. The chain cuts poorly, takes more power to turn it on the bar and can eventually break.
The 2 to 3 chain rule per drive sprocket is based on a chain sharpened right down as far as possible under normally cutting conditions.
Having said that, some chainsaw owners may go through a dozen or more chains in a month due to hitting rocks etc and not bothering to take the time to sharpen the chain to get the maximum life out of the chain.
The 2 to 3 chain rule per drive sprocket is based on a chain sharpened right down as far as possible under normally cutting conditions.
Having said that, some chainsaw owners may go through a dozen or more chains in a month due to hitting rocks etc and not bothering to take the time to sharpen the chain to get the maximum life out of the chain.
Mick!
TreeHouser
Ok cheers Willard, I'll pay a bit more attention to them.
Szajer
alive with pleasure
Thanks Willard<?
I seen first hand that not changing those sprockets out, really screws with a chains performances. My employer has been reminded time again to have his replaced, he just won't do it.
It's such a quick and cheap fix. I just replaced my plug last week. Last one was about a year old, but this particular saw doesn't get a while lot of hours. Again, another cheap fix that gives longevity to my equipment— how could I afford not to....
I seen first hand that not changing those sprockets out, really screws with a chains performances. My employer has been reminded time again to have his replaced, he just won't do it.
It's such a quick and cheap fix. I just replaced my plug last week. Last one was about a year old, but this particular saw doesn't get a while lot of hours. Again, another cheap fix that gives longevity to my equipment— how could I afford not to....
HolmenTree
Banned
When I was production falling 40 hrs a week I changed my spark plug every week. Mind you we were using leaded gas back then too.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Rotating chains give more runtime and less wear on the stuff.
One bar, 5, 8 or 10 chains (depending on your bar, chain and skills), one rim and off you go. Wear them evenly and rotate the chains so they run the same amount of time, take care of the bar and run.
Solid bars with more surface for tiestrap will allow more runtime/chains.
Excessive wear on tiestraps, bar rails from low rakers (to compensate sharpness) ruin the rim. New chain in and rim ruin it fast as it wears in together.
Wearing leave traces that you can see how it was used and help you understand.
I call it chain diagnostic's. Fun and educating just as filing.
You don't change one sprocket on a motorcycle either...
One bar, 5, 8 or 10 chains (depending on your bar, chain and skills), one rim and off you go. Wear them evenly and rotate the chains so they run the same amount of time, take care of the bar and run.
Solid bars with more surface for tiestrap will allow more runtime/chains.
Excessive wear on tiestraps, bar rails from low rakers (to compensate sharpness) ruin the rim. New chain in and rim ruin it fast as it wears in together.
Wearing leave traces that you can see how it was used and help you understand.
I call it chain diagnostic's. Fun and educating just as filing.
You don't change one sprocket on a motorcycle either...
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Rotating chains? How is that done?
Magnus
TreeHouser
It is not so hard.
You have a number of chains, a bar ana a sprocket/rim.
When dull you replace dull chain with a sharp, flip bar and of you go. When dull again you change chain flip the bar and go again.
When chains are off you sharpen them or get them sharpened in what ever way you see fit fit, but most important is that they all run and wear evenly.
You have a number of chains, a bar ana a sprocket/rim.
When dull you replace dull chain with a sharp, flip bar and of you go. When dull again you change chain flip the bar and go again.
When chains are off you sharpen them or get them sharpened in what ever way you see fit fit, but most important is that they all run and wear evenly.
mardenm
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #20
This makes sense. After seeing the wear on my sprocket, it's easy to understand how this can cause wear/damage to the chain and bar.
The moral of this story I am hearing is, if you want to get good life out of your saws, sharpening the chain is not enough. You also need to check the bar and sprocket, and monitor them for wear too. Seems simple enough.
Would it be reasonable to guess the sprocket wear is a result of the chain becoming loose and slipping ?
The moral of this story I am hearing is, if you want to get good life out of your saws, sharpening the chain is not enough. You also need to check the bar and sprocket, and monitor them for wear too. Seems simple enough.
Would it be reasonable to guess the sprocket wear is a result of the chain becoming loose and slipping ?
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
I know about flipping the bar. I'd never hear of "rotating chains."
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Makes sense. I sharpen on the saw and just wear one out at a time. Might have to change. Amazing how long a chain lasts if you don't hit steel, rocks, the ground.
I cut through a nail or thick wire yesterday dropping a tree. Nice thing is the chain was on its last sharpening anyhow.
Never thought anything about the nose sprocket.
Never running a dull chain makes sprocket last a lot longer. I would think bigger, modified saws would wear out sprockets faster also.
I cut through a nail or thick wire yesterday dropping a tree. Nice thing is the chain was on its last sharpening anyhow.
Never thought anything about the nose sprocket.
Never running a dull chain makes sprocket last a lot longer. I would think bigger, modified saws would wear out sprockets faster also.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I've come across that recommendation somewhere, must have been in a book.
HolmenTree
Banned
Proper chain tension is at the top of the "to do list" to prevent wear.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Must be about half the people around here run their chains hanging off the bottom of the bar.
