CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
No.. Replace
Chainsaw Rebuilder?
- Thread starter Bodean
- Start date
- Replies 101
- Views 11K
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
They get soft and collapse. Or brittle and suck air.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Yup.
Bode you're gonna have break the fuel tank n rear handle apart, including the anti vibe, to get the entire airbox away from the cylinder intake, to replace that impulse line at the cylinder base. It'd be dumb not to put a new rubber carb boot on too.
It's a pain in the azz but quite doable. Get a gallon of gas and wash all that sclurge outta the nooks n crannies. Then reassemble it all nice n clean. You'll be surprised how much lighter the saw is minus all that sclurge n caked on crap.
Jomo
It's a pain in the azz but quite doable. Get a gallon of gas and wash all that sclurge outta the nooks n crannies. Then reassemble it all nice n clean. You'll be surprised how much lighter the saw is minus all that sclurge n caked on crap.
Jomo
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
See if this works..... might come in handy
The work shop Manuel is pretty big. I would have to file share it to you Deva.
The work shop Manuel is pretty big. I would have to file share it to you Deva.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I have it in English on a disk somewhere. And the s hop manual. Ill see if I can find where I put it. At least you can see the carb structure.
Derail,
Thanks Pete for the info on the 362s...unfortunately I don't get to have access to them yet beyond the training days. They will go back to the dealer for fixing.
Funny thing is, most SES units have older smaller saws, and most operators are novices, so the intricacies of the auto tune saws are more than they are used to. Me too for that matter, but at least I know when something ain't right!
Back to your regularly scheduled 'Deva fixing his 044 thread'...
Thanks Pete for the info on the 362s...unfortunately I don't get to have access to them yet beyond the training days. They will go back to the dealer for fixing.
Funny thing is, most SES units have older smaller saws, and most operators are novices, so the intricacies of the auto tune saws are more than they are used to. Me too for that matter, but at least I know when something ain't right!
Back to your regularly scheduled 'Deva fixing his 044 thread'...
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Deva, also be sure to cinch down the bolts holding the cylinder to the crankcase, they can loosen up. Either they are allen head or more likely that type bolt that requires the Stihl specialty wrench. You probably need a long wrench to reach down in there to engage the bolts.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
T-27 torx as I recall jay
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Torx, right. Thanks.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
A long reach T-27 driver to fit 1/4" drive is not very expensive .--flea bay ---
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Lots of people can fix your saw, only you can run your business. Don't waste time fixing, if it's preventing you from doing marketing, business development, etc.
ruel
TreeHouser
Just put the new piston and cylinder on my 066, but realized i forgot to get bolts to attach the darn thing!
ruel
TreeHouser
Just put the new piston and cylinder on my 066, but realized i forgot to get bolts to attach the darn thing!
Stephen, if you find that shop manual i sure would appreciate a look at it. Got a little crazy stripping the thing apart, might need all the help I can get fitting the puzzle back together
Stephen, if you find that shop manual i sure would appreciate a look at it. Got a little crazy stripping the thing apart, might need all the help I can get fitting the puzzle back together
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
On the 066? IPL Or Shop manual??
I CA upload the ipl..... the manual won't fit.
I CA upload the ipl..... the manual won't fit.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Deva, LA isn't a tuning screw other than for the idling rpm adjustment. If it is merely a carb adjustment problem, the L screw is probably what needs to be dialed in. Don't lean out the H screw too much or you can ruin your saw, that's not really a concern with the L screw. The factory specs for the screw positions should get you pretty close if the saw is otherwise in good running order, but age, worn out parts, and time of year can affect the final best settings. The LA screw is usually the final adjustment to get a good idle without the chain moving. Worn out clutch springs, not uncommon on older saws, can have the chain moving at what would otherwise be the ideal idle.
ruel
TreeHouser
Was looking for the shop manual, didn't realize it was that big!
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Here is the IPL... I gave the manuel to Magnus over a file sharing server. I Think I have it some where you can retrieve it.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
See if you can get it from this link https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Mb7C8iIL1gUFF4QVhaWXVTQXc/view?usp=drivesdk
Magnus
TreeHouser
If Guurgel is not working for you you can try here: http://files.chainsawcollectors.se/downloads/brand/stihl/066_WM.pdf
Its 32MB so you might need a bit patience..
Its 32MB so you might need a bit patience..
Magnus
TreeHouser
What carb is in it? Is it Walbro WJ?
Always start from scratch when setting carbs. Set it to factory settings and fine tune from that.
Make sure carb is tight, no leak in main inlet valve (and set right) or gaskets/membrane. No crap in filter under pump membrane.
Set it One full turn out from LIGHTLY seated.
This it should start and run on.
After you got it running you sett L so there is no hesitation on acceleration. Strong idle.
H is top rpm but also affect L so don't tinker with it if not needed.
In Full throttle it should just slightly four stroke, then clear up as it gets in under load.
When I set saws I set them under load after performance. When they run as best that is good enough for me.
Always start from scratch when setting carbs. Set it to factory settings and fine tune from that.
Make sure carb is tight, no leak in main inlet valve (and set right) or gaskets/membrane. No crap in filter under pump membrane.
Set it One full turn out from LIGHTLY seated.
This it should start and run on.
After you got it running you sett L so there is no hesitation on acceleration. Strong idle.
H is top rpm but also affect L so don't tinker with it if not needed.
In Full throttle it should just slightly four stroke, then clear up as it gets in under load.
When I set saws I set them under load after performance. When they run as best that is good enough for me.
Magnus
TreeHouser
In any tinkering with saws first thing I do is put in a new corrected and tested spark plug.
Helps get some parameters out of head.
One system at the time, if its not OK, go thru all of it part by part.
Start in one end and go thru all of system.
If its fuel system you start in tank with pickup/filter, then fuel line, carb, intake, impulsline etc..
Coffey help you a bit.. Education ladder is set pretty steep at first.
Being a cranky, stubborn old bastard that never give a inch also help in this work.
I have saws with 40hrs+ in them until I got them good.
But there is not much that beat the satisfaction you get when its running right, better than new even.
Keep in there and don't let a little inanimate thing as a saw get under your skin.
Helps get some parameters out of head.
One system at the time, if its not OK, go thru all of it part by part.
Start in one end and go thru all of system.
If its fuel system you start in tank with pickup/filter, then fuel line, carb, intake, impulsline etc..
Coffey help you a bit.. Education ladder is set pretty steep at first.
Being a cranky, stubborn old bastard that never give a inch also help in this work.
I have saws with 40hrs+ in them until I got them good.
But there is not much that beat the satisfaction you get when its running right, better than new even.
Keep in there and don't let a little inanimate thing as a saw get under your skin.
