Chainsaw Lanyard Mod !Pics!

  • Thread starter Thread starter bonner1040
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 61
  • Views Views 15K
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #27
Oh, I get it, it probly does smell funny to her. She is just 9 months old and hasnt spent any time around gasoline. We live in an apartment, I usually keep my stuff elsewhere.
 
It looks handy to me if you're constantly hanging the saw on the saddle. Conifers prevail here so more often than knot my saw just dangles below me. I do find my stock buck breakaway saw lanyard to be a pita if I do have to 'saddle' it. That looks like it'd be much easier to use. It may just inspire some changes. Thanks for putting the pics up!
 
I would say he has it there so he can switch saws easily if desired. I used to do something similar with a biner, switched to just girthing it, but I end up using my 200 more than my 192 now for most things, since it has the saw lanyard girthed to it. Probably gonna switch back to a screw link or something small just so I can switch out saws quickly and easily.
 
I see. That part looks kind of clunky to me, maybe a smaller fastener if a fastener is desired there. I keep breakawayy lanyards on my 200's all the time. I don't usually ever swap out saws like you describe.
 
I like the manufactured breakaway lanyards.

Justin, you prefer to let them dangle. What's advantageous about that? What is your connection for hanging it short on your harness?

I often toss my saw up in the air a hair, then catch it by the lanyard at the big ring, and clip on to the (#2??) brass boat snap standard on the Glide II. I can unhook it easily with one hand. I like it out of the way. Only missed the catch to hang, maybe once.
 
The advantage to letting it hang imo is that if you are limbing up a conifer that's limbier than hell you can do the onehanded 'catch' like you describe and than just let the lanyard run through your fingers, no hanging/clipping onto and off of the saddle at all. Also you can leave it running.
 
I often do as Squish describes in conifers, too. Any time manueverability amongst limbs is required, I attach it close.
 
I've seen people slide it down after the catch. I do tend to shut if off between 1-2 whorls, giving the groundman time to clean up between.

I tend to baby my equipment to make it last, so I'll hang it trying not to have it bang around. Maybe starting and stopping it more often is harder on it, though. Dunno.

Doesn't seem hard on my body, which is the much bigger concern that babying the saw.

I don't like having to send the saw down, and pull it back up, with a delay in game for the trip to the truck for a fuel/ oil refill, and can get a lot done in a tank with not letting it run..

I'll have to switch it up and try it.

For me, it seems the repetition pulling up would harder on my wrists.
 
Burnham and Justin, what is your saw attachment on your harnesses? An old saddle that I used had a flat, silver hook with gate that was a pain for me, often requiring two hands. I never use two to attach or detach.

Of course, I'm not suggesting you are doing something wrong or inefficiently, just wondering about your process and combo of gear.
 
I find it faster than frigging around with clipping and un-clipping. If I'm climbing I'm usually ready for a nice little break by the time I need a fuel up so I don't think a little bit of idling makes much difference. I don't find the saw gets banged around much on a straight up and down conifer. I think It's definetly faster. I don't like the saw hung up close it bangs off of yah and whatnot espescially straight up and down on a conifer spar, I don't really like the hot or sharp parts to ever be able to contact me and pulling it up is a non-issue for me. I would bet the re-starting constantly is way more wear and tear on you and the saw. A well tuned 200t is easy to start, one pull everytime, but every now and then that compression stroke will catch me at it's 'magic' moment/spot and it can give ya a tug. Obviously if the hole needs to be cleaned out or if I foresee any reason that there will be a little extra time between getting cutting again I'll shut it off but I still let it hang long.
 
SouthSoundTree said:
Burnham and Justin, what is your saw attachment on your harnesses? An old saddle that I used had a flat, silver hook with gate that was a pain for me, often requiring two hands. I never use two to attach or detach.

Of course, I'm not suggesting you are doing something wrong or inefficiently, just wondering about your process and combo of gear.
Click to expand...

I use a non-locking biner, I find the motion of clipping and un-clipping it to be ackward for me. I am incredibly unflexible, espescially in my shoulders and I have always found it kind of ackward to reach back to the side to clip it on/off. Like B posted if there's any chance of it getting snagged or in the way of something I park it up on my saddle.
 
SouthSoundTree said:
Burnham and Justin, what is your saw attachment on your harnesses?
Click to expand...

I use a Buck breakaway chainsaw lanyard girthed onto the saw and than clipped onto the harness with a locking biner. I have a non-locking biner on my saddle that I use if I'm clipping it up and I just clip it to one of the gear loops on the masterII that I use for straight up spike 'em up removals.
 
I wonder about the, perhaps French, style of hanging the saw on a big paddle 'biner in the rear. Anybody do this with, maybe small backhandled saws?

I can't really see not using a lanyard on a top handle. I'll cut with one or both hands, stop the chain on trunk, and then grab a limb, or hold and chuck. Sometimes, I'll need to pin a heavy limb to the trunk, hang the saw, then grab with both hands to position it well between ground obstacles in a tight LZ. The lanyard allows the risk of missed saw catch.
 
I'm with you there...in fact, I want to be able to hit the chain brake and drop the saw if I need...not often at all, but I want the option. Blowing a biggish top out of a conifer comes to mind.
 
Burnham said:
I'm currently using a Petzl Caritool on my Sequoia, for the 200T. It's on the standard bungee tearaway saw lanyard, with two rings, short and long. Short ring goes on the Caritool, long ring goes on an aluminum wiregate biner near and to the rear of it.

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Accessory-Non-locking-/Caritool

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Other-Lanyards/Chainsaw-Bungee-Lanyard-with-2-Rings
Click to expand...

I use a similar setup B. I use a large caritool and a small caritool. It is easy to hold the big ring on the lanyard and open the gate at the same time and just slide the ring out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

davidwyby
New chainsaw chain
Replies
6
Views
439
davidwyby
davidwyby
cory
pickaroon
Replies
7
Views
86
SeanKroll
SeanKroll
C
quick questions: communication systems and chainsaw pants
Replies
2
Views
662
Bermy
Bermy
C
Steel toe/chainsaw boots vs Regular boots
Replies
15
Views
888
BlackSmith
BlackSmith
cory
Chainsaw flywheel
2
Replies
42
Views
2K
flushcut
flushcut
Back
Top