chainsaw common sense

  • Thread starter Thread starter bstewert
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If I were to go out in my mothers garage I could retrieve to old Sears and Roebuck electric saw my granddaddy had which went to my departed pap .It cuts just fine,not like a 200T but good enough for light trimming etc around the house .Always starts ,I'll give it that .:)
 
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  • #27
Great comments. I like the story about the chain on backwards. What would happen? It just wouldn't cut, right?

I have a 192T, Husky 36, pole saw, and now this electric. I got it cuz I was borrowing a friend's so much. It cuts great and has no gas mess/fumes to deal with, but mainly, it does not have that recognizable chain saw roar that can disturb the neighbors.

Definitely want to have the right size cord, at 1600 watts. It came with a 16" bar, but they say you can use a 14", too. The quality on this saw is tops, and it cuts as good as my other ones.
 
I live near a shoe manufacturing company. Just closed down the factory, but they had a yard with a sawmill to turn logs into material for the shoe heels. I stopped in and checked it out. They used to use a large electric chainsaw that ran on 220V. We have 100V and 200V . I've seen a number of them since then at the auctions. I can't recall if they were single or three phase. Appear to be slow cutting with decent torque.
 
I guess these kids should have read the owners manual.

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Bruce,
Don't use the 'video' tag when embedding a video clip. Just copy the embed code from Youtube (or wherever) and paste it in your post. Nothing else, or else you create a mess.
 
When I was a Stihl rep in 1989 I spent some time with some potash miners in Saskatchewan who used Stihl electric chainsaws underground.
They used the saws to cut doorways between tunnels.
Wish I took some pictures at the time.

Willard.
 
In my surfing the net I once came on to a homemade chainsaw mill that used a 10 HP 3 phase electric motor .The owners comment was that it would out cut the original 24 HP gas engine he was using and a lot cheaper to operate .That was a big slab mill with about 8 foot of bar on it .

As a rule of thumb an electric motor will replace a gasser of about double or more the HP .Fact is at one time I replaced a 3HP Briggs on a drum cement mixer with a 1/2 HP single phase .Sounds odd ,trust me it worked .
 
I just heard a story today from the client where we were working today. A guy he knew was trimming some branches by his pond with his electric chainsaw. Supposedly, the guy would get really upset when branches blocked his view of the pond. So anyways, the guy ended up slipping and falling into the water with the saw. The electrical shock didn't kill him but it was enough to make his body freeze up to where he couldn't move, he drowned in 3 feet of water. Sad part is that he had a gas saw in his garage.
 
It would be a good idea to plug in saws and other outdoor tools into a GFCI receptacle. It would have helped that guy who fell in the pond.
 
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  • #37
It would be a good idea to plug in saws and other outdoor tools into a GFCI receptacle. It would have helped that guy who fell in the pond.

As a general rule I try to use a GFI circuit, but now I think I'll go buy one of those portable ones, to use if the circuit is unknown.

I'm looking for something slick to keep the cord ends from coming undone. Something easy to attach/unattach. Any ideas?

p.s. it appears "unattach' is not a real word.


plug1.jpg
 
We usually just make a knot in the line around the attachment.
 
cord-324587_2.jpg

Ive seen simpler made of plastic. Like a circle, rectangle or oval with a hole on each end.
http://www.improvementscatalog.com/home/improvements/792929414-extension-cord-safety-seal-2-pack.html
 
I do the same Bruce, I just tie the cords. Looked like the tail was a little short on that CS in the pic though. Seen guys make them out of wood before by just putting two slots spaced appropriately apart. Thread the cords through the slots, plug together and pull out the slack.....
 
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  • #45
Thanks for the ideas.

I usually tie cords together, but the tail on this CS is a bit short and wire stiff for it to hold if you swing it around. What often happens is the loop gets caught on something and comes apart.

I have a couple of those green things, not that exact one, but they are only good sitting still, or with an occasional tug. So far the best thing I've come up with is a piece of 10ga wire, but I was hoping someone had and idea that was itsy-bitsy and held tightly.
 
When I went through a session at Husky headquarters in Charlotte several years back, they warned about the chaps possibly not stopping an electric when they gave the demo of how they worked. Sure stopped a 350 quick. You notice the same instant full torque power characteristic when you drive a hybrid like the Prius. Really quick passing acceleration.
 
I believe the day will come with major improvements in battery technology, a cordless lightweight chainsaw outcutting a Husky 372XP.

Willard.
 
Even if it doesn't cut like a 372, a small, lightweight electric with a backpack battery would make for a killer pruning saw. They have'em in Europe already. The less noise you make on a high end property the better.
 
I just saw them dmonstrated at the forestry/arborist show we went to.

We were not impressed!
 
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