Chain grinder?

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Nutball, exactly why I was looking for the best grinder available (without spending $2500 or more). As mentioned, my friend had a cheap one from HF and threw it away. With 5-6 employees and no one really sharpens in the field, he needs a way to keep up and stop spending such a massive amount of money on new chains. They don't even touch up new chains, they all think 'new' is 'sharp' so they have no real experience running sharp saws. Unfortunately this is more common than not with small treecos around here.
 
I honestly would be skeptical of any grinder considering Jerry's story of the silvey, and the 1998-ish model Italian made Tecomec grinder I used. People are too lazy or unvirtuous these days to learn to do quality work, whether it's sharpening or removing a tree. They would probably screw up a robotic grinder as well.

Lately I think of buying a "new" chain as buying a very good cutting chain. Because you can have a 2/3 used up chain cut very well if properly sharpened, but that takes work and know how that most people would rather pay someone else to do or buy a new chain. Newness of the chain doesn't quite mean as much when all that matters is how sharp and good performing it is. Many people think that nothing cuts as good as a new chain, simply because very few people know how to make one perform like new. As for those who know how to sharpen well, a new chain is obviously worth the many times it can be resharpened at the low cost of some files and time.
 
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My experience with a grinder has also been that it takes pretty much the same skill to sharpen well as it does to file by hand well. I almost went back to hand filing after that experience, but the grinder is easier on my hands when doing several chains for a few hours, and I trust it to get the teeth the same length more accurately than me eyeballing it. There were many inconveniences with the grinder I used. One was having to re-dial-in the length it would leave the tooth after grinding when I switch from doing one side of the chain to the other. It wasn't as simple as flipping the chain around or the grind angle, the chain advance distance had to be readjusted. There's just so many variable involved as well as tolerances of the grinder to worry about. The one I used didn't seem flimsy, but flexed enough to have horrible precision. There was almost no way to accurately set depth gauges with it, because I thought it would stop at the set depth, but the frame would flex so much that I couldn't feel when it hit the stop. The chain clamp was sloppy. It would only pinch one little area, so the vibration and pressure of grinding would tilt the cutter back. The only good thing was it had a reverse switch, so you could get more even sharpening results.
What brand/model grinder?
 
Mike,
My grinder is sitting here unused as my focus in retirement has been the woodworking and I no longer have coworkers rocking chains.
If you have bench space, good lighting, and a bit of patience it’s a good skill to develop. If interested you may ‘long term’ borrow it. John could try his hand at it too.

Jerry’s advice on stones is critical for safety and getting a proper tooth profile.

I leave for California on the 13th if you’d like to grab it before I go (and return the rest of the books you borrowed - only if you are done with them!)
 
Mike,
My grinder is sitting here unused as my focus in retirement has been the woodworking and I no longer have coworkers rocking chains.
If you have bench space, good lighting, and a bit of patience it’s a good skill to develop. If interested you may ‘long term’ borrow it. John could try his hand at it too.

Jerry’s advice on stones is critical for safety and getting a proper tooth profile.

I leave for California on the 13th if you’d like to grab it before I go (and return the rest of the books you borrowed - only if you are done with them!)
Pat, very generous offer. Is it different than the one in the picture?

I am done with the books. Much appreciated reading. Thank you so much. Maybe I can get up there one evening before you leave.
 

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What do y'all think about sharpening on the spot? Would that please you, or piss you off? If I dull a saw, I plant my ass on the ground and sharpen it, but it isn't my occupation, and I don't have time constraints.
Sometimes, sharpening can be a reason to take a break, and drink some water, eat something, etc.

Other times, grab another saw or change chains.


Generally, it's about as fast for me to sharpen as change chains by the time I get out the spare chain box, change chain, put away dull chain in the box, and put the chain box away.

My files are really available. My spare chain box could be better organized.

All my rear-handles are half-skip or most commonly full-skip.
 
I file most mine (99.5%) Very seldom do they go to a shop and get sharpened. Unless one gets damaged bad and there is enough teef left to.
Square Chisel. My Silvey handles all of those. Those larger loops make money on the big stuff. These days we run more 24" or less. 18-20" is the go to for this clean up shat. I can drop a lot of trees with a 20. Hell. I'll brush out a lot of the tops even on the ground with a 2511. That sports a 12".
From 24" and down, I will file till you cant.
Quick to just sit down once in a while and touch them up as Sean pointed out. Makes money after that. Enough to off set the break IMO.
Our Aunt bought us one of those non Motor Dino Sharpeners hand crank not auto, from Baileys back in the day. Gear got busted its first use. Never sent it in for repair. I left that up to the guy that messed it up "insert eye roll here".
I think that was 1200.00 or a tad more at the time. What I really wanted for that kind of money was a set of Oregon so I could have like 3 set for small sharpening like low pro and like 3/8ths .050 full chisel round grind. One more for rakers. Could have had that for the same dollars.
That Dino grinder was more of a PITA to set up for our regular chains. NOW. If your are running harvesters or a mill, You betcha. Long loops all the same. Or close.
This one is the auto. Our operated the same mechanically with a crank. Dinasaw_Chainsaw-Sharpener_MarshallAgricultural-Engineering.png
 
Wow...5,600 euros. Wow.
That’s a lot of contact time though. Many sparks. Lots of material removed. Lots of heat. Maybe that’s all fine and dandy though. I’ve been trying to limit contact time to reduce heat buildup. Also, try to take minimal material so the chain lasts longer. I think on the last batch I went too light though as it didn’t really hit the top plate.
 
That’s a lot of contact time though. Many sparks. Lots of material removed. Lots of heat. Maybe that’s all fine and dandy though. I’ve been trying to limit contact time to reduce heat buildup. Also, try to take minimal material so the chain lasts longer. I think on the last batch I went too light though as it didn’t really hit the top plate.

The video was posted to just show it can be done. Basically if you try and cut rocks 🤪.

Usually it is just a touch or two on each tooth.
 
The video was posted to just show it can be done. Basically if you try and cut rocks 🤪.

Usually it is just a touch or two on each tooth.
I’ve cut rocks before!! They were in the middle of the tree!! Looked like quartzite (one of the hardest stones) Only happed once and hopefully never again!!
 
Square grinder takes too much brains, patience, maintenance. Get a simple mid priced round grinder with a CBN wheel, get someone who knows what they’re doing to set it up and give basic instructions.


Or husky roller file/raker guides for everyone
 
I may have mentioned this, I keep a 2 in 1 stihl sharpener in the truck, one for Picco and one for standard 3/8" .050, its excellent to touch up a chain, but I try to always swap out to a sharp chain and sharpen the dull ones on the grinder
I need a CBN wheel, im tired of honing the pink hard rock wheels between chains
 
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