Moparmyway
TreeHouser
Trying to understand this all for me, is like someone trying to understand, from many people's helpful advice how to set up the 3:1 return on the HH with a base-tie with a back-up system. I get lost. I wish I had a local to sit down with, adjust and cut. I probably don't get all the performance out of my saws as possible, but seems to work okay now.
Can a tach even be used on modded saws? My 460 and 660 have been souped. 064 just sits after the last time I tried to adjust it. When you have souped 660, what's a old 064, for?
Hi Sean,
I used to think the same way as you, but then while wearing earplugs, it all became clear.
IMHO, you need to tune your saw for the load it is under.
Say I tune my hopped up 044 with a 32" B&C while cutting hickory, then install a 24" bar on her to cut a pine, she needs to be leaned out a little, or it will 4 stroke in the cut.
I start real rich and lean her out slowly while in the cut on dogs ........ thats where you will need the most power ......... untill she sounds like a hornet. When I come off the dogs, even while still cutting, she 4 strokes ......... still a little rich by some standards, but thats how I like my saws to run. Innards of the saw look like new. Maybe watch the video and listen to it slightly breaking up when I rotate the saw off the dogs (@ 17 second mark), then hear her clean up when I put her back on the dogs (@ 22 second mark)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDsCF21ZDiY
Tach use - modded or un-modded .................. to me it really doesnt matter. The tach will read what it reads based on my tune. I dont tune with a tach, but I use it as a reference so I know what RPM the saw runs at. The RPM is based on the tune, not the tune based on the RPM.