Chainsaw Tuning

lxskllr

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I was using my PoulanPro yesterday cause I didn't feel like stopping by my house first, and it still isn't running quite right. After a fresh start(either hot or cold) it's boggy pulling the trigger for a couple seconds still it spins up, and then it works fine, and will continue to be fine during that running session. Shut it off, and I get the same behavior again.

When I got the saw, it didn't like to stay running. It would idle more or less fine, then die. I ended up opening the low screw *a lot*; 1.5 turns I think. I'm guessing it's a little rich now, but I thought I'd ask before dicking with the carb again. I'm not really good tuning a saw. I can muddle through highspeed adjustment. I typically make it rich, then slowly back it off during use over a few sessions. My goal is longevity over peak performance. The low speed screw is more of a mystery to me.

That saw kinda sucks. I got it to keep at the office cause it was cheap($75 NIB from a pawnshop) to replace my ms362 that got stolen . Ya get what you pay for. It's certainly worth $75, but it leaves a lot to be desired. They managed to make a plastic saw feel even cheaper than average, mushy av, and poor tuning out of the box. I'm guessing the tuning can be fixed, but maybe not?
 
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  • #3
Yea, I've read that before. I guess I should give it another shot. The response to screw turning is laggy, and at least on the Poulan, erratic. My old Poulan gave me issues also. I've had an easier time with my echos. I think it helped that they started off closer. Just required a little tweaking to get right. I like my mtronic Stihls best. Just pull the cord, and they work :^D
 
I was using my PoulanPro yesterday cause I didn't feel like stopping by my house first, and it still isn't running quite right. After a fresh start(either hot or cold) it's boggy pulling the trigger for a couple seconds still it spins up, and then it works fine, and will continue to be fine during that running session. Shut it off, and I get the same behavior again.

When I got the saw, it didn't like to stay running. It would idle more or less fine, then die. I ended up opening the low screw *a lot*; 1.5 turns I think. I'm guessing it's a little rich now, but I thought I'd ask before dicking with the carb again. I'm not really good tuning a saw. I can muddle through highspeed adjustment. I typically make it rich, then slowly back it off during use over a few sessions. My goal is longevity over peak performance. The low speed screw is more of a mystery to me.

That saw kinda sucks. I got it to keep at the office cause it was cheap($75 NIB from a pawnshop) to replace my ms362 that got stolen . Ya get what you pay for. It's certainly worth $75, but it leaves a lot to be desired. They managed to make a plastic saw feel even cheaper than average, mushy av, and poor tuning out of the box. I'm guessing the tuning can be fixed, but maybe not?
Remember that the tuning MUST be done when the engine is at operating temperature - otherwise your results will be unsatisfactory ... ymmv
 
Sometimes ya get what ya pay for ! Case in point - A fella I brought on to help buck / split asked for a recommendation for a saw , told him a 261cm wood do nicely (he does the tops and works his way back - I use 70cc class saws with 24” b/c and work from the business end towards him) well he shows up with an echo 490 with a 20” bar ... 50cc saw better suited to a 16” ... anyhoo the chain kept giving him trouble and ended up bending by the pin , asked him if he hit anything and he said no ... just Buckin the wood ... maybe I’m spoiled with ported saws but man that thing was lethargic with a 20” bar ... like watching paint dry ! Handed him me ported 241c and he had a big grin on his face ! Nothin against echo (maybe he just got a lemon and the saw was new / not broken in) as some like them and have good luck with them ... He ended up taking it back and getting the STIHL 😆
 
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  • #6
I have zero complaints with my echos(cs400, 2511t). They start easily, and run great. <60cc I don't see me using anything but echo barring some kind of deal. >60cc, I'll be sticking with Stihl.

I'm still a little pissed about the coil that went up in my Husky brushcutter. 90% of the time I'm just doing this stuff for fun, and if my gear doesn't work, I'll simply go do something else. One of the few times I actually *needed* the gear to work, it didn't, and I had to drop another $800 on a Husky brushcutter to get some work done, cause no one locally carried the big Stihls. You could say a coil or other problem could happen to any brand, and that might be true, but it didn't. All my serious gear has worked flawlessly aside from the Husky, and that's as good a reason as any to avoid them. Of course, if the right deal shows up, I'll consider anything. Like my $75 PoulanPro(let's be honest here. It's really Husqvarna's discount line :^P ). Yea, it kinda sucks, but it was $75, and it cuts wood. I spent more than that for my last Stihl ES Light bar, and it doesn't do anything by itself.
 
There will be lag when tuning the low speed. Many saws will act like they want to die when you hit the trigger when they are cold, probably because they haven't built up tank pressure or something, so gas doesn't readily flow as well as it should.

If it doesn't act like it wants to die, but is just slow to spool up, the low speed is rich. It may also slowly slow down during idle, getting rougher until it dies if left long enough. If lean, it would speed up at idle over time, sound smoother and surgy, then die.

The low speed tends to be a sensitive needle, but is slow to respond. I tend to warm up the saw (with about 1-2minutes of cutting), then let it idle for a while, and tweak the L screw every 5-30 seconds until it has a long lasting reliable idle. Then I adjust it slightly as needed for good throttle response.
 
If it needs more fuel it should have it. If they run lean they get damages sooner or later.
What saw model is this?

Generally any saw sould start and perform no matter temp.
If there is no primer, shifting saw from side to side a few times, create a bit pressure and saves a few pulls.
Good to do when working on saws especially if its many. Can save 10 pulls on some saws if they are dry in carb and fuel line.
 
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  • #9
It's a PoulanPro PR4218. Dunno how familiar you are with these. It's a bottom of the barrel big box store saw, owned by Husqvarna. Normal retail is $150, and it's debatable how good a value it is at that price. For a one job saw, it's probably ok, but if someone wanted a saw to use for years, the echo cs400 at $300 would be the better deal I think.

It starts pretty good. I just need to get the running performance right. It's better than it was when new, but still isn't correct. Next time I start it up, I'm gonna lean the low needle a bit, and see how that goes. It suits my purposes for a theft resistant office saw, but it's easily the least favorite of my collection.
 
When I was in high school and landscaping during my summers Echo was king. Blowers, weed whips, hedgers all Echo and they never shat the bed even after all the abuse high school kids could do to them.
 
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  • #11
I've been super happy with my echo gear. My worst experience with echo was the srm410u brushcutter, but I beat the hell out of it while I had it. It was a little underpowered for my purposes, and I was basically holding it by the handlebars, and slamming it into brush banks. The handlebar mount lost some teeth, and I had to jbweld the bars on(worked great) to keep them from moving, and I blew a drive tube. It was really just the bushings, but they didn't have a replacement part for those. I later found that Stihl bushings most likely would have fit, but it got stolen before I wore another set out, and couldn't try it.

Comparing it to my Husky 545fr, there's things I like better on each of them. Overall, the Husky feels more modern and polished, but functionally they run neck and neck(taking into account the size difference of the motors).
 
Its sold in most brands in Husqvarna/Electrolux in several variations and cc's.
Jonsered and McCulloch versions I see here.
The former series without fresh air engines was better perhaps.

Its what I would call cosumer grade saw.
 
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