Naturarbo
Naturarbo
Hi, using a ring in the alpine butterfly knot for locking SRT anchor has the same side loading effect as with carabiners?
carabiner vs ring
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much more robust and pretty well made for it, you wont break a ring using it as an SRT anchor
using a butterfly as an anchor, in my experience the hardware in it (carabiner, ring, quickie) rarely touches the trunk, the rope diameter takes up a lot of the room IME
using a butterfly as an anchor, in my experience the hardware in it (carabiner, ring, quickie) rarely touches the trunk, the rope diameter takes up a lot of the room IME
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Pull tests with carabiners choked on limbs showed carabiner to be very robust. I don't know who did the pull- tests to be able find the video.
Levering over a rock edge is different than tree applications tend to be.
Rings are very tough. Climber loads are small.
Levering over a rock edge is different than tree applications tend to be.
Rings are very tough. Climber loads are small.
HOWNOT2? (YT)
he breaks anything and everything on his breaktest machine, probably the one you watched
ive never bent a carabiner and ive tried, worst I have done was swinging a 1500-2000 log (really big limbs) back into a trunk, and the gate on my steel biner got messed up (wont rotate, stuck unlocked)
Naturarbo
Naturarbo
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I believed that this stuff is way to strong...
A scottish climber that works with us sometimes was using a steel carabiner for that purpose and told me aloys were not reliable?
On major axis...Could you really bend a climbing biner with climbers weight?Even on rescue scenario with 2 people?
A scottish climber that works with us sometimes was using a steel carabiner for that purpose and told me aloys were not reliable?
On major axis...Could you really bend a climbing biner with climbers weight?Even on rescue scenario with 2 people?
good question
I doubt it honestly, and even if it bends will it snap? a steel one probably wont but alloy will
I wouldn't be comfortable falling into a sideloaded biner, especially if the rope was levering against the gate, for normal climbing, and since it's usually right in front of me to inspect the situation, I'm fine with sideloading biners for access.
No, I wouldn't call that sideloading. Maybe... Depends on exactly what you mean. Choking a stem by running your lanyard around it and clipping in to the standing part would be a classic example of side loading. The rope is connected to the biner at each each end, but the applied force is 90° to the vertical axis of the spine.
Another example would be a biner partially cantilevered over a limb. Maybe you're clipped into a sling, working around the tree, and the biner ends up on top of a limb, where it's tethered on the X axis, but half the biner is having force applied to the Y axis.
If you're just hanging in the tree, and the biner's forced up against the stem, that wouldn't be sideloading unless something crazy was going on in a failure situation.
Another example would be a biner partially cantilevered over a limb. Maybe you're clipped into a sling, working around the tree, and the biner ends up on top of a limb, where it's tethered on the X axis, but half the biner is having force applied to the Y axis.
If you're just hanging in the tree, and the biner's forced up against the stem, that wouldn't be sideloading unless something crazy was going on in a failure situation.
