Brilliant! Laying a tree down gently
- Thread starter davidwyby
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Nutball
TreeHouser
Bendy river birch. I had a similar size Norwegian Spruce do that even with a back cut.
Interesting. I never thought of using no back cut but river birch is extremely strong like that. My usual method is lean it over using a narrow face (short: not open) and then repeat as needed making new felling cuts above the previous one until the trunk is parallel to the ground.
Funny how river birch is super strong when alive but get weak fairly quickly when dead.
Funny how river birch is super strong when alive but get weak fairly quickly when dead.
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
He's on TB.
Burnham
Woods walker
For many species, that wouldn't work. But it sure did work fine there.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Species specific technique right there. River birch being the optimal species, elm would be another good one, spruce maybe. But then again ye old bomb pad is real easy to make for non impact turf jobs. Or cut it low enough so the log comes in flat.
Then again the longer I’ve been in business the less I care about turf damage. I’ll do everything I can to minimize impact but there is always some impact short of matting the whole job site. But if they are paying I’ll build the Great Wall of China.
Then again the longer I’ve been in business the less I care about turf damage. I’ll do everything I can to minimize impact but there is always some impact short of matting the whole job site. But if they are paying I’ll build the Great Wall of China.
Nutball
TreeHouser
It also depends on how tall the log is vs the diameter, and how much it weighs. Double diameter quadruples the cross sectional area, so volume and weight will quadruple, and increased height adds leverage, so that only works with small or short trees. The only way I see getting a big tree to do that is cutting several face and back kerfs up much of the length. The idea is to use narrow face cuts so the amount the hing fibers flex is minimal, so they don't break, and any such cuts add together the amount each hinge bends until it's all the way over.
A big enough tree would uproot itself before it reaches the ground due to all the torque. I was considering if a far forward hinge and a heavy duty rope tied to the log and stump on the back side would help slow it, but the torque on the rope and stump would be stupid high.
A big enough tree would uproot itself before it reaches the ground due to all the torque. I was considering if a far forward hinge and a heavy duty rope tied to the log and stump on the back side would help slow it, but the torque on the rope and stump would be stupid high.
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theTreeSpyder
TreeHouser
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Hello again!
Very nice showing, ty.
i have been able to trick that out a small number of times all the way, but did use back cut; just to a very thick hinge. And did have to sneak into the batter's box a number of times to alleviate stall. Really want smooth flow, no stall to build internal forces/make mad (is bad voodoo).
i always called it a muscle over, like arm wrestling when trying to conjure.
Low weight, leveraged length and no speed in good elastic wood.
Even if get half way down before she commits is still better than full range fall throttle value.
Had a bunch of clients living on different gulf courses; very particular! Seemed easiest in Pine and Palm locally.
Got rope into Palm w/o climbing by throwline over crown to bring up Running Bowline to just under fronds or so if thick enough. By using the throwline as below, kept Bowline from closing too early. Trunk needed to be clean; not loaded with old 'boots' or 'saddles' from previous frond trimming years.
Saw some place that a hard rain could disrupt mycorrhizae; so to that model always tried to see how good i was at exercising softer landing. Except when wanted to 'punch threw' some soft obstructions to get to ground squarely. Do what can to force thicker hinge; deliver to ground padding of tree stuff, maybe the top that was rigged down etc. Also logs across to spread out impact, sometimes each spar end on brush to brake fall force; or even old tires stacked under the ends if no brush for that shock absorber utility . Also to this model, heavy equipment has great impact vs. ninja'ing in without. Then too, usual above ground construction techniques by builders means deconstruction devastation below ground.
One part of softer felling formula always came to be; was to practice felling as a sideLean; even when had turn face to do so.
Figuring only so much force total so if some of it was sideLean; then less of it left for direct hit forward. Using ol'fave Tapered Hinge as ballast across against the sideLean. This also allowed to exercise sideLean technique; some times the scenic view/Long Way Home(Supertramp) is best. Extend theory even in to bucking upwards on pinch would be most severe force, but can face some to side and Taper Hinge(fat side down) to relieve some on not the strongest axis of fold..
Very nice showing, ty.
i have been able to trick that out a small number of times all the way, but did use back cut; just to a very thick hinge. And did have to sneak into the batter's box a number of times to alleviate stall. Really want smooth flow, no stall to build internal forces/make mad (is bad voodoo).
i always called it a muscle over, like arm wrestling when trying to conjure.
Low weight, leveraged length and no speed in good elastic wood.
Even if get half way down before she commits is still better than full range fall throttle value.
Had a bunch of clients living on different gulf courses; very particular! Seemed easiest in Pine and Palm locally.
Got rope into Palm w/o climbing by throwline over crown to bring up Running Bowline to just under fronds or so if thick enough. By using the throwline as below, kept Bowline from closing too early. Trunk needed to be clean; not loaded with old 'boots' or 'saddles' from previous frond trimming years.
Saw some place that a hard rain could disrupt mycorrhizae; so to that model always tried to see how good i was at exercising softer landing. Except when wanted to 'punch threw' some soft obstructions to get to ground squarely. Do what can to force thicker hinge; deliver to ground padding of tree stuff, maybe the top that was rigged down etc. Also logs across to spread out impact, sometimes each spar end on brush to brake fall force; or even old tires stacked under the ends if no brush for that shock absorber utility . Also to this model, heavy equipment has great impact vs. ninja'ing in without. Then too, usual above ground construction techniques by builders means deconstruction devastation below ground.
One part of softer felling formula always came to be; was to practice felling as a sideLean; even when had turn face to do so.
Figuring only so much force total so if some of it was sideLean; then less of it left for direct hit forward. Using ol'fave Tapered Hinge as ballast across against the sideLean. This also allowed to exercise sideLean technique; some times the scenic view/Long Way Home(Supertramp) is best. Extend theory even in to bucking upwards on pinch would be most severe force, but can face some to side and Taper Hinge(fat side down) to relieve some on not the strongest axis of fold..
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