Bridge lengths

Wwallace52590

Treehouser
Joined
Nov 21, 2025
Messages
19
Location
Salisbury, NC
So I’m pretty new to climbing don’t have a year of experience yet, I’ve only climbed DRT/Mrs so far, next big job I do I plan on buying a rope wrench tho. Also don’t have much experience working on a spar.

So I run a short bridge because I like having room over my system to take long pulls if that make sense, also seems like a short bridge would be important for accessing SRS/SRT as well as for spar work, I see a couple of harnesses eve have dedicated SRT bridges. Are there any options like that for other harnesses? I run a monkey beaver OG harness, and would like an even tighter bridge specifically for accending sometimes but it I make my rope bridge any shorter I’ll have a hard time getting into it. Right now I have 2 bridges but they are the same length. What are advantages to a longer bridge? I feel like most guys I see online have very long bridges which on a spar doesn’t seem like would be doing anything until your tie in is basically above their head.
 
You might like the O-rig system ( maybe O-Ring) It moves your climbing system away a bit, while being in reach.

I've never used it. I'm almost all Srt.


The first Rope Wrench was a box- end wrench fir a minute, then a piece of wood. My first Wrench was a hickory hammer handle with a 45⁰ hole in one end for the rope, with a tether on the other end. 16-17 years ago.

There are many DIY Wrench designs, some midline attachable, fwiw.
 
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  • #5
a longer bridge will be more comfortable, maybe try oe longer and one shorter bridge?
yea thats what i think im going to do, i might get the adjustable bridge setup from monkey beaver so i can make it super short for ascending without having to fight to fit into it when putting my harness on. Although it kind of freaks me out so ill probably keep a fixed one and put a ring through both of them for peace of mind.
 
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  • #6
I'm with @friedrich...a very short bridge will squeeze you like a toothpaste tube.

Long pulls are overrated...especially by short peeps like me :).
i can deal with the shorter pulls im more so concerned about having my system tight when working on a spar, or is that more of just a backup that doesnt really stay taught its just there in the event you gaff out or something.
 
I'll tell you, my friend...in more than 40 years of professional tree work, I so seldom set an overhead climbline for a spur climb as to make it something less than 5 percent of the time. You work in a very different forest type than I, so there should be caveats :).

Gaffing out is a non-issue, with proper technique. It happens regularly, nothing to get inside your head. Unless you are climbing a small diameter slippery as hell and hard species like madrone or sycamore...which is a good time to put in that overhead line.

You will only be taking out slack from time to time, not hanging on the rope.
 
A 540⁰ wrap on slick stems can help.

Spars are much more about hip-Ds or Bridge rings as flip line/ lanyard connections than hanging from a bridge mostly.

The normal bridge is very needed when hanging from another, overhead trunk while working down a spar.
 
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  • #9
A 540⁰ wrap on slick stems can help.

Spars are much more about hip-Ds or Bridge rings as flip line/ lanyard connections than hanging from a bridge mostly.

The normal bridge is very needed when hanging from another, overhead trunk while working down a spar.
i know the sequoia and tree rex saddles have "srt bridges" is there anything like that availible that would work on my MB?
 
Those look like products that benefit the seller more than the buyer/user...

What you have on the MB is fine. It's a good saddle with a solid rep. If it were me, I'd forget about fine tuning the bridge until you have some significant experience upon which to base such. Refined technique will get you there far easier than bits and bobs.
 
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  • #12
@Wwallace52590

Care to share your name?

I'm Sean.

What are you hoping to achieve?


What kind of trees do you climb?
Im wilson wallace, i live in NC, just learned we have more hardwood species than any other State in the county, most of our trees are super wide canopy. Im not very good at identifying trees yet im trying to get better at that, mostly oaks, maples, hickory/pecan, and the occasional pine or cedar. Just curious about srs stuff since all i know is MRS, i worked for a tree service in my 20's as a ground man and learned basic mrs with blakes hitch climbing, i wasted the next 5 years of my life then had my first kid at 30 and now im 35 with 2 kids working 3 nights a week at a factory and trying to start my own tree service bussiness. I also cut lawns but that isnt my passion its just easy money. I started climbing again abouit 9 months ago and fell in love with it, if my family life would allow it i would go work for a local tree sertvice, but it does not so im stuck "teaching" myself thru resources like this site, another fourm site, youtube, and books. I have read tree climbers companion and to fell a tree (dissapointed in the second one) and recently got The basic fundamentals of tree work which is an amazing one, waaaaaay more helpful than the others. Going to add tree work to my lawncare insurance come march and start putting myself out there more. Most of the jobs ive been doing this year have been for family, and luckily my in laws have a big piece of land i can practice on as well as about 7 rental houses. So any free time i have im doing some kind of "tree work" regardless of if its a paying job or just for "practice"
 
Glad to meet you, Wilson.

A ton of knowledge and willingness to help around these parts.



The New Posts button is my go-to.
 
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  • #15
Rope walkers are a great tool and throw line skills save Sooo much work.
the other day was the first time i felt in the zone with my throwline lol, hit all my shots in a couple tries, didnt get any weights stuck or anything. im sure i was a fluke.

what do you mean by rope walkers?
 
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