Bollard design

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One of the guys (either Willie or Bodean?) said they kept the PW in a cooler with ice in it on hot days to start out with it cool. So, somewhere the answer was "yes".
 
I love it for attaching ropes to winches and stuff.
I got that trick from Carl and we use it all the time. Especially on Dyneema, it makes the world of a difference.

For lowering, I'd rather drag the Hobb's out.
 
Yeah, high mod rope loses too much strength with a knot.

You could also stick the porty in a cooler with ice.
 
On big removals, I use two portys sometimes so one can cool off in a bucket of water while the other is being used. Then I just alternate between portys on each piece. It was amazing to see the water get hot enough to start steaming one day last winter. There is a lot of heat being generated there.
 
If we keep this up, someone is going to invent a liquid cooled porty. We'll have a little water pump sitting next to the tree and water will flow though the porty.
 
That's why I suggested the drum be larger .More surface area ,less bend and stress on the rope plus load on the coils .You heat the rope up just by the fact you have it wound so tight .--Then again ,I'm a rigger not a treeman ---:)
 
How about drilling tiny holes throughout the bollard so heat can dissipate faster?

And while we're on the topic, thicker metal would absorb more heat, right?
 
if you had a bottle of water and just squirted a bit on the drum to keep it damp, evaporative cooling would be simplest and best. I'm currently working thermal transfer at the moment, I have nearly 9 Megawatts of waste heat to deal with :/:
 
wow, that's a pain to wast so much energy.

For the bollard, a small fan inside the drum ?

Or you can make a spinning drum coupled with a big fan. The fan will do the cooling (accessory) and the braking, like in some jump towers for the parachute's entertainment.
Not so easy to hang on a tree, though.
 
Ah brain storm er maybe brain fart .Hows about an old mag wheel .Strong enough, cheap too .That thing will dissipate heat plus it doesn't weigh much either . Hmm fact is I have a couple dandies that came off of a '78 Lincoln Mk 5 .
 
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I think an air cooled bollard is realistic. Make the bollard out of some heavy aluminum extrusion with some kind of matrix inside, and a small electric fan pumping air at volume through the tube. Granted, how will the fan hold up in tree work?
 
Air is a poor conductor of heat. Pouring a pint of water on and letting it evaporate would be hundred times more effective. Don't believe me? Heat a Bollard up to temperature, then turn your leaf blower on it. You'd be amazed how much blowing it will take to cool.


Brevity and smelling errors courtesy of iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Aluminum by it's very nature will disipate more heat .Steel will basicically get hotter where the friction is .Aluminum because of an excess of valance electrons in the outer shell of the atom makes both a good heat conductor and a good conductor of electricity .In other words the localized heat of friction will be more absorbed into the metal than transfered to the surface of the rope .
 
Copper or brass is an excellent heat dissipator, blocks recommended for putting under what you might be welding to draw off the heat. I imagine that for a bollard, the material costs would be too high, and I think it is potentially hazardous to weld.
 
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