Bench grinder?

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flushcut

TreeHouser
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I just got a diamond wheel for stumper teeth and I was wondering if anybody has converted a dry grinding bench grinder into a wet grinder? Any tips or tricks would be helpful or a "dude you are crazy" would work just as well.
The wheel can be run dry or wet, but I think some lube is in order, your thoughts. Al I would be willing to bet a dollar you have tried doing this.
 
I can see running the wheel through a reservoir of water or an add on drip, but how are you going to keep it from spraying all over the place? The wet grinders that I have seen are very slow rpm. Slower, but still fast by comparison, Baldor makes an 1800 rpm grinder, helps prevent burning tool steel. Most bench grinders are 3600 rpm, I believe.
 
You can get bench grinders that run at half speed 1800 RPM.
I use one for sharpening my turning tools, it doesn't build heat up as fast which is good for grinding the thin edges.
 
Willard mentioned to me to buy or build a sandblast cabinet and put the grinder I there hence keeping the dust to an absolute minimum. I just got a new set of teeth so I will be following this thread for more tips.
 
I have one of these.....
Not bad for the money and not a total POS.
image_16929.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-hp-6-inch-tool-grinder-46727.html
 
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Thanks for the replies and the link!
I think I am going to remake the metal guard out of PVC but I still have to think it through a bit more, but for right now I have been just dunking the teeth in water and that has helped a good bit.
Can that HF grinder do chipper knives?
 
Like Bud just said I mentioned to him about the small sandblast cabinet I have sitting on my workbench. I bolted the small bench grinder inside the cabinet and dust is kept in control by using the built in rubber gloves.
I don't need water because I use a 7" green stone mounted on the grinder. I never used a diamond wheel but my experiences with the green stone wheel is very good.
 
Thanks for the replies and the link!
I think I am going to remake the metal guard out of PVC but I still have to think it through a bit more, but for right now I have been just dunking the teeth in water and that has helped a good bit.
Can that HF grinder do chipper knives?

It does mine but they are small compared to other chippers.. I would imagine you could figure out a jig to hold them and do them.

https://www.masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?12421-Sharpening-Chipper-blades-Because-you-asked-and-I-am-a-cheap-Bast-d&p=332781&viewfull=1#post332781
 
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Now let me give you all a little caution about grinding carbide .No matter if you use a green wheel or a bonded diamond wheel the grindings are real hard on your lungs .Much more so than regular hard steel .

All the diamond dress wheels at work have especially high volume exhaust fans plus the cutter grind people wear special masks .They have some cabinet enclosed dressers with coolant much akin to a sand blaster also .These are semi automatic though and way too expensive to use to grind stump grinder teeth for the average person .
 
I wish I knew more about chipper teeth. Do they have to be precise ground sharpened? I was just wondering if you could chuck up a wheel in a hand held grinder, the kind used for sharpening the weed whacker carbide tipped blades? Could you touch up the blades by hand that way?
 
No Jay, they are precision ground. I have heard of guys using a belt sander, but getting the angle right may be a lesson in futility.
 
I'm not sure if they make a belt sander band hard enough to cut carbide .If they did it would be one costly piece of equipment .

Just for what it's worth,maybe two cents you can use a piece of carbide to shape a standard bench grinder wheel because it's that hard .Try it some time it won't even make a mark on good carbide .

Now as to stump grinder teeth I'm not certain of weather they are true carbide or mangense bearing steel .Either would certainly be hard though .You stand a chance of reshaping manganese with a side grinder as oppossed to true carbide .
 
Now on actual chipper knives they use a surface grinder with a magnetic table .It generally costs maybe 1/3 of what a new set of knives would run depending on who does it .

If you run a rock ,chunk of chain ,nail through them and knock out a big chunk you'd just as well toss and get new .That knife steel is so freakin hard there isn't much you can do it .Perhaps save it for a blacksmith type artisen knife maker is about all .You can't weld it ,drill or nothing unless it's annealed .
 
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