Big Al, doing cut downs, that's being mighty frugal, good on ya. I had a bunch old chains set aside for awhile, had the same thing in mind for them but ultimately couldn't get around to making it happen. Probably better that way for me, I can get bogged down in penny wise/pound foolish thinking.
Anyone make their own chains?
- Thread starter Benjo75
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Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
Along with STIHL The Husqvarna X-cut chain is also very good ! The c83 outcuts the STIHL brand new off the reel ... after a few sharpenings close ... I have 100’ reel (actually about 85ft left) and tools to break and mend
Benjo75
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #28
I ordered a 100 ft reel today. I have my breaker and spinner mounted. I put the chain chart on an 8 ft board with the nails on one end. Should be ready to go in a few days. I just ordered the 3/8 chain. If that works out then I'll order some different sizes for rhe different saws.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
You have to remember I do not use a chainsaw to make a living .As a restorer/collector I've got all the time in the world to do stuff like this .I've got partial rolls of chain ,many brand new loops in boxes that could be 50 years old .plus lots of tie straps ,cutters etc .Fact I have one of the last rolls of .404 chisel skip in .058 Carlton sold via Baileys logging .The saw in my avatar has a 48" McCulloch hard nose bar .it's .058 slot .I have no idea how many loops I have hanging on nails in my garage and shed .at least 50
I've built up and repaired loops using several methods .Of course the spinner which most use .I've also peened them with a small ball peen hammer .Plus I have a set of concave punches I turned on my metal lathe from grade 8 bolts .You have to look real close to tell which rivets were factory and which that were spun or peened .
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Rivets on a chain...Not too tight, not to loose. Like a chain on a bar.
Easy to tighten more, than punch out and re-spin if too tight.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Stiff rivets loosen up pretty quick after a few blips of the throttle.
Benjo75
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #33
I have shortend chains on the jobsite logging years ago with a punch and ball peen hammer. Always worked but if the chain ever broke it would break at that link. Didn't look like a professional job but it worked and would get me out of a bind. Sometimes overtightened them and had to work the links back and forth a few times to loosen it up.
Were you reusing the tie strap? I heard that was a possibility. I mentioned filing the rivets before punching them out, and someone said you could just punch it, and he'd reuse the tie in an emergency. Never reused one, but I did try punching it without filing first. Worked on Oregon chain, but I broke my punch on Stihl chain. I always file first, and I have spare tiestraps.
I'm just a dummy with computer stuff, same as tree stuff. I just put in some time to figure some of it out. Anyone else could do the same if they were sufficiently motivated. I figure with enough time and money I can do anything that doesn't violate physics, and if I can do it, everyone else can too. I may not be the best at any particular activity, but no one's the best except the guy that is, and odds say it isn't me or you, so we just manage with what we've got :^)
Burnham
Woods walker
I've run some loops of Oregon, maybe one full spool over 40+ years of chainsaw use. So not too many, really...though it's true that 28 and 32 and 36 and 48 and 60 inch bars do eat up a lot of chain pretty fast 
.
I've never been a full time faller like Stig, but I've served too many weeks that have added up to many months on fireline hazard tree felling duty, and a whole passel of years felling not-on-fire hazard trees as a road maintenance tech. Plus plenty of years of my regular duty as one of the go to cutter/fallers on the Mt. Hood NF.
I have found Stihl chain to overall perform better for me in my work conditions. The Oregon chain did not fail...it just was not quite as good...say, if on a scale of 1-10, I'd put Oregon at an 8.5 and Stihl at a 9.5...assuming there has to be an even better saw chain out there
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On a cost per inch, that might well make it a wash, or even a plus for the Oregon, if dollars was the only measure. But in my work, where the road was often a long way away, and all you taxpayers were buying my chains as well as paying me to be most efficient with your tax dollars, the Stihl chain was the winner.
.I've never been a full time faller like Stig, but I've served too many weeks that have added up to many months on fireline hazard tree felling duty, and a whole passel of years felling not-on-fire hazard trees as a road maintenance tech. Plus plenty of years of my regular duty as one of the go to cutter/fallers on the Mt. Hood NF.
I have found Stihl chain to overall perform better for me in my work conditions. The Oregon chain did not fail...it just was not quite as good...say, if on a scale of 1-10, I'd put Oregon at an 8.5 and Stihl at a 9.5...assuming there has to be an even better saw chain out there
.On a cost per inch, that might well make it a wash, or even a plus for the Oregon, if dollars was the only measure. But in my work, where the road was often a long way away, and all you taxpayers were buying my chains as well as paying me to be most efficient with your tax dollars, the Stihl chain was the winner.
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Burnham
Woods walker
Not so sure about that one, Kyle. Maybe one rare man can do what another rare man has done, on rare occasion...but most of us would be wiser to stay within our own limitations .
.Wiser yes, and I'm exempting extreme examples of intellect, athleticism, body differences, and fine motor skills. Let's also ignore skill levels attainable only by decades of effort, and also there is the implied effort to achieve something that i didn't mention. But for most stuff, i do honestly feel that if you are willing to put in the effort, you can do almost anything. It's not always advisable to do so, but i believe it's at least possible.
Burnham
Woods walker
Fair enough, and I cannot say I disagree in the least, put that way. Kudos...that's a winner's attitude.
Magnus
TreeHouser
I get all chain on rolls as its just easier for me with all the odd stuff I get on bench here.
Some chain rivets can be reused, others not and as the new are in box when you get them I see no reason to not use new.
I keep the used ones though. For shelf queens its not needed with new chains so I cut old and then use these rivets.
Some chain rivets can be reused, others not and as the new are in box when you get them I see no reason to not use new.
I keep the used ones though. For shelf queens its not needed with new chains so I cut old and then use these rivets.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Its a good expression that tells something. I try not to restore the saws, just complete/correct them as best I can.
An original bar from the time it was sold and correct chain Looks better to me than new shiny thing thats not correct.
I save the rivets I take out in a big can. If I get in a pinch I can use those sometimes.
Some chains is hard to find rivets for so diving in to that can helps sometimes.
Here is some chain parts I saved. Tiestraps, preset tiestraps, cutters, drivelinks , small parts of chain.
An original bar from the time it was sold and correct chain Looks better to me than new shiny thing thats not correct.
I save the rivets I take out in a big can. If I get in a pinch I can use those sometimes.
Some chains is hard to find rivets for so diving in to that can helps sometimes.
Here is some chain parts I saved. Tiestraps, preset tiestraps, cutters, drivelinks , small parts of chain.
Attachments
Burnham
Woods walker
We have a similar expression here, for collectible cars that almost never get driven. "Garage queens". My Jag is not one .
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