saws with mind of their own

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The corn free I get only comes in one grade. It's either 90 or 91. I can't remember.
 
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  • #31
I always understood that one should use the mid grade for saw gas.
 
Ordered a 550 in January of last year. It showed up in August. Haven’t even started it yet. Probably be off warranty by the time I decide to use it. Was thinking about going all redneck on the muffler if there would be any gain without doing harm to the saw.
 
There's something to be said for a quiet saw. That's one of the things that keeps me pushing my 2511 mod to "maybe later". Try just using it. If you're happy with the performance, it's good enough.
 
I tried the premix in my ms150T. I ran out of gas on a job where I didn't have my van with me. So it was the landscaper's gas. Actually, two times, about 6 months apart. Same result : My saw ran like shit, low rpm, almost no torque, stalled all the time. Nice to trim a black locust and a maple with a uncooperative saw. It was really the gas, as the change came like a switch on-off with the premix or (after) with the usual gas again. The landscaper didn't have a problem for his own tools (chainsaw, pole saw, blower). Strange.
 
Hmm... Funny you mention the premix. That's what's mainly in my 2511 atm. I had a can I wanted to get rid of, so I used it on the maple takedown. Most of it went into my 661(no problems), but the rest went into the 2511, and the hip flask liquor bottle I keep a bit of fuel in. I'm still working on that fuel, though it's almost gone. I wonder if my hot start issues will disappear with the fuel?
 
Ordered a 550 in January of last year. It showed up in August. Haven’t even started it yet. Probably be off warranty by the time I decide to use it. Was thinking about going all redneck on the muffler if there would be any gain without doing harm to the saw.
I thought they have a 2 year warranty, but I don't know if you have to register it when you get it. I had got some warranty registration in the mail with a couple saws I ordered. I never filled it out.

I have either a 3/8 or I think it's a 1/2" hole straight out the front of my 550. If I could weld or braze I'd rather have a little pipe on one side or the other. I like flywheel side pipes to prevent much dirt from getting blown around, and heat and exhaust from accumulating during stump cuts. Even stock, it has great performance with a 18" bar, but it reaches it's limit with muffler mod running 24" 3/8. I mainly just use the 24" for convenient light weight reach in the firewood pile, I have a 660 running a 15" for speed. I plan to put a 18-20" on it when the 15" wears out.

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View attachment Muffler mod 550.mp4

There's something to be said for a quiet saw. That's one of the things that keeps me pushing my 2511 mod to "maybe later". Try just using it. If you're happy with the performance, it's good enough.
I wish I had a stock muffler to put on mine for regular around the house use. I did for a while, but I traveled with it to a place where I though I'd want it quiet, but I ended up needing the power far from anyone, so I ruined that muffler too.
 
it seems to me that my 661 will start to cut faster than my 462 at 24“ bar length, below that they just both cut very fast. 15“ bar on a 661 seems like wasting gas, but might be fun :)
 
I have a bigger rim, and a very aggressive chain on the 660, which is a chinese kit saw with crummy cylinder. That being said, the same 15" bar, chain, and rim on a stock 461 takes all the power it has, if not more.
 
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  • #41
re the OP, the problem with warm weather operation seems to have disappeared presumably with the onset of summer grade gasoline.

However one of my 576's is still acting up. It's a back up saw and I thought maybe it still had a partial tank of winter gas in it but I went thru over a tank and a half cutting firewood today and it's still problematic- it cuts perfect at high speed but it idles poorly or not at all. And if it dies cuz I neglect to rev it to high idle in between cuts, it's then hard to start despite being fully warmed up.

Could it be the very poor operation during the first warm day of season/running on winter grade gasoline caused the puter chip in it to recalibrate wrongly. Maybe it needs 'resetting?' Being a chip saw there are no external adjustment screws on the carb.

Ideas?

Thanks.
 
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  • #43
Yes I had that vaguely in mind and think I did that cutting firewood non stop for a tank and a half. I idled it in between some cuts as a new log was presented to me by the excavator. Am I supposed to keep it full throttle for 3 -5 min whether cutting or not? Seems like that would blow up the saw
 
Yes I had that vaguely in mind and think I did that cutting firewood non stop for a tank and a half. I idled it in between some cuts as a new log was presented to me by the excavator. Am I supposed to keep it full throttle for 3 -5 min whether cutting or not? Seems like that would blow up the saw
That wouldn't blow up the saw, but no. I think the 3-5 minutes of firewood cutting is to let the saw warm up sufficiently while also giving it enough time to adjust itself. It generally takes around 3min of use to get the engine up to temp.
 
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  • #46
I see Sea Foam has been around awhile, is it anything like Marvel Mystery Oil?

Could it do any harm to the other saws all of which run perfectly?
 
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  • #48
What does SeaFoam do, internal "cleaning?"
 
Yes. It can remove carbon as well as clean the carb. I figure it's worth a try, but I think there may be something else going on. Kinda hard to adjust the idle when there's no screws.
 
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  • #50
Well, I used the saw again today planning to cut up a bunch of logs into firewood, it was still acting up by not idling so I said yeah ok and against all good sense I revved to 75-100% throttle and left it there for a bit....after 30-45 seconds it let out a pop and died. Wouldn't restart. :rockhard: :cry: :big-bat:✝️
 
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