Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

When I know that I have a bombproof TIP, I don't sweat the toothed ascenders provided my HH tender set-up is, well, set up. As well, If I tend my HH well by hand, no worries.
 
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  • #229
If I am on a long ascent I like using a sling and biner as a chest harness. Less than 20' I will tend manually but my experience with ascenders is minimal.
 
There arent really a lot of cases of people dying because their toothed ascender tore through the rope. I am sure there might be some, but its common practice in rock climbing to rope solo a fixed line with two mini traxions on separate tethers. Both are somewhat slack and catch a dynamic fall without issue. Arguably rock rope is more dynamic and kernmantle construction but still.

IMO it is a hazard worth noting but I certainly dont do anything to mitigate it other than avoid big falls as a general practice.
 
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  • #232
I have seen rock climbers using ascenders as well. I wonder if there have been any drop test done with toothed ascenders on different ropes semi dynamic, semi static, and static ropes for tree care?
 
I've just caught up on this thread. A lot of you guys seem to be using 6/7 wraps. I'm on 5 wraps with the standard vt hitch knot of Armor Pruss on a Poison HiVee.
Am I missing something?
 
I put 5 wraps on my HH too, like it was sent with the beeline already knotted. It works like that for me.
I tried 4 wraps but it doesn't hold enough. And with 6, it's too grabby and difficult to push up.
 
I found that quite a bit can change with how tight I get my wraps. Bonner appears to be quite nimble in the fingers when he ties his. With me it's a laborious task but I wrap it, then I render it around and get as much slack out of the BeeLine as I can. Then stuff it thru the DogBone, give it a good tug then tie my stopper knot.
If I hurry it and don't render the slack the hitch is usually more than 2" away from the unit. I would rather have to pull a little harder to take up slack than I would have it slide on the rope.
 
5 wraps for me...and I have to put a stitch or something through the end of the beeline and core...the cover keeps bunching up and making it hard to stuff through the dogbone. I have it wrapped with electrical tape to a taper at the moment, but a more permenant solution is needed!
I've got a bit of tape to mark where the knot should be when its tied so I get it the same every time.
 
Good idea with marking the beeline for the knot, but I'll try to mark it with a pencil. I use the HH on two different ropes. So the knot has two favorite places and the tape would be in the way.
 
I found that quite a bit can change with how tight I get my wraps. Bonner appears to be quite nimble in the fingers when he ties his. With me it's a laborious task but I wrap it, then I render it around and get as much slack out of the BeeLine as I can. Then stuff it thru the DogBone, give it a good tug then tie my stopper knot.
I do it a little differently : I pass the beeline throw the dogbone and make the stopping knot before taking out the slack from the wraps. I find it easier this way, as you don't have to hold tight your wraps during these steps (because I always lost my grip doing that and the slack comes back in the wraps). When the knot is loosely tied, take all the slack out of the wraps, push it throw the dogbone and work the knot to "eat" the slack. Then hang on the HH to finish setting the wraps and the stopping knot.
 
I'm "a bit" heavier so I'm on 7 wraps with HRC cord, it's been working real good for me.
I haven't had to mark my cord. I've gotten pretty good at getting the "tension/slack" just
right when I tie and set the stopper knot.
But, I'm always one for trying to improve, so I've been "experimenting" with the Cooper's Hitch.
There's a lot of things I like about it. One thing is it doesn't seem to "seize" on the rope(most of the time).
Still need to find the right "variation" that fits my climbing style. The HH hitch is still the best hitch for me. :D

Bermy,
I've had that "cover bunching thing" happen to me also. I removed the cord from the HH, milked out the excess,
cut the end of the cord with a "gradual" taper, and used some quality electrical tape to make about 2"-3" gradual
taper on the end of the cord. I know whenever I forget and try to push/stuff the cord through the cover wants to
"bunch up", so I constantly have to remind myself to put the end of the tapered end through just enough to get a
hold of it and pull it through. That way, even if you have "some" cover bunching up, when you pull the cord it'll
slide right through. hope that helps/makes sense. :)

I'm itchin' to climb. I just changed my Edge saddle over to the Liger bridge. It'll be a while though, still painful to
move around but far less pain than yesterday! I know I need to give my body the time to heal up before I start to
"abuse it" again. ;)
Work safe.
 
I do it a little differently : I pass the beeline throw the dogbone and make the stopping knot before taking out the slack from the wraps. I find it easier this way, as you don't have to hold tight your wraps during these steps (because I always lost my grip doing that and the slack comes back in the wraps). When the knot is loosely tied, take all the slack out of the wraps, push it throw the dogbone and work the knot to "eat" the slack. Then hang on the HH to finish setting the wraps and the stopping knot.

:thumbup::)
 
My Armor Pruss hitch cord gave up on me yesterday so I changed to 6mm Liros. I've used it before with 6 wraps and 1 braid and it works really well. I weigh about 80kg I think, and the Liros works really well. Smooth and positive
 
I took 2 cottonwoods down that were hanging over a fence, sauna and a u.g.utility transformer. Drt and spurs+flipline.
On the 2 nd tree I got the BeeLine a little too snug so it took a little more oomph to take up slack. But it slacked pretty smooth. And I was using ArborPlex. I do have more work at that place in the spring that will require some limb walking so I will need to run the beeline not quite so tight and will use the 7/16 static line.
 
Yes. It works great. But, I've only used 2 ropes in my HH 7/16 Samson Static Kern and ArborPlex.
For srt the ArborPlex has lots of bounce but for just coming down its fine. Or for the general run of what I do in a tree. My next rope may be Arbor Master. 16 strand.
 
I've been climbing on the Arbor Master since I started almost 6 years ago, love the stuff! :thumbupold:
It'll stand up to an amazing amount of abuse. I recently replaced my "original" line and have been using
it for most of climbing. It works well with the HH. I switched over to using HRC cord for the hitch, seems to
work a bit better than the Beeline. I also have Yale 16 strand xtc that that I use for "longer" climbs, it's 150'.
It's a bit bouncy, but also works great with the HH. (my Arbor Master is 120', great rope :D)
 
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  • #248
I have climbed on several ropes that I really Like. The one I currently really like is Yale Luna from Treestuff very smooth and light. Also have Vortex which I have 150' for Srt which is a true half inch 24 braid on braid and use 10mm Ocean with RW which works quite well together. I like 10mm Beeline on the Luna. I also have the Liger Mod on my Buckham Viking saddle I like Blue Streak for the bridge and may use it for my next lanyard I make. I am would like to learn to splice if I can make time for it.
 
I have climbed on several ropes that I really Like. The one I currently really like is Yale Luna from Treestuff very smooth and light. Also have Vortex which I have 150' for Srt which is a true half inch 24 braid on braid and use 10mm Ocean with RW which works quite well together. I like 10mm Beeline on the Luna. I also have the Liger Mod on my Buckham Viking saddle I like Blue Streak for the bridge and may use it for my next lanyard I make. I would like to learn to splice if I can make time for it.

Once you start splicing there's no turning back..... ;) :thumbup::D
I just spliced up an eye on each end of my new rope lanyard. 16 strand Neo Pro 11mm. I've used it a few times before I got a chance to splice the eyes and I really like it! :D
I'm "addicted" now and it's all Nick's fault..... :lol:


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Now I just finished a project for Mark. Not that I want anyone to not learn but you guys gotta stop teaching yourselves a WEEK after I splice something for ya! sheezus
 
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