Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

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I thought I saw u using a rw in the last video u posted. Ur videos are what got me on the hh in the first place! So have u decided on a favorite or are u just changing it up for fun?
 
What I've found so far is the HH "package" is much more user friendly compared to the RW.
The RW tends and releases the hitch noticeably easier than the HH.
I honestly don't have a "favorite"..... yet. ;)
I'm learning, through this thread and others here, little things that make the HH perform better.
I'm also building and modifying tethers for my RW to get it to perform better.

As of right now the RW is my "primary" climbing system and I use the HH for a secondary system. It worked out great on that last video I posted.
The RW is "clunky" compared to the HH, but the RW is less "effort" ascending and descending.
No, no favorite..... yet. ;)
 
The HH, as a hybrid, kicks ass...
Maybe just my opinion.. But I can work a tree using both Ddrt and SRT as it suits me, ascent or descent.. To me... that is WAY more efficient than just one or the other.. Period..
That blue oak I posted in the work pictures thread I did just that .. Moving my "base" tie in point where ever I needed it. base of this leader or that limb. Ddrt where it worked and then cinch off the working end to go SRT where it suited me. Back and forth all over that tree. Kicks butt when you can do that as part of your plan of working the tree. JMO
 
Okay, just did a small dismantle with P.I and 5 wraps worked great. Only problem is I only have a small hank of it and it's my removals rope.
This ain't a issue just means I'm guna have too tweak the wraps and have a play with velocity to work the big trees. I'll definitely be trying 6 wraps as I think that wAs my problem.
Thanks guys.
J8)
 
CurSedVoyce said:
I weigh 160 and usually 6 wraps will do it on PI or BM...
Sometimes I will add the cross over with 5 wraps and it tends well or better depending on how broke in the rope and hitch cord are.
Click to expand...

I think that could also be one of my problems. The velocity was my spider jack rope from day one so has not fluffed up from using a hitch on it. Still like new. It'll take a bit of time to work them both in.
J8)
 
I just wish the hh wasnt so clunky when used ddrt, maybe adding a clip in point on the spine could solve that? Or maybe they could combine the two and make a 'wrench hiker'. My only issue with the rw is how big/long it is and my thinking is if it were placed under the hitch like on the hh it would make it more compact but still function the same way? image.jpg image.jpg
 
I don't notice any "clunky" about it with the Bat plate on my rope bridge. Never been an issue. I also don't compare the HH to the HC pulley set up. As far as smooth on Ddrt, the HC system is hands down the best I have ever floated on. The HH is a different animal entirely. Thus I do not compare the two. The versatility of the HH devise supersedes the down grade of the Ddrt smoothness the HC offers with the HH SRT function readily available.. JMO.
 
CurSedVoyce said:
My other opinion is... once you dial in the HH to your weight with hitch cord on climb rope combo, the difference is negligible...
Click to expand...

From what I've experienced so far I agree. :)
As odd as it sounds having climbed with the HH for over a year and a half I'm just now REALLY starting to get it "dialed in", getting more climb time helps for sure. :thumbup:;)
Over the past month or so I've picked up several "tips" that have been a big help to improve the HH's performance. :D
 
Thanks, guys. Great comments. I've put quite a bit of time in with the Rope Wrench, but I'm not at all someone who climbs on a regular, consistent basis. I acquired a Hitch Hiker awhile ago, but only have a few climbs in on it. The one thing that drove me to buy the Hitch Hiker was that Nick Bonner, I believe, mentioned that he thought that the Hitch Hiker had "consistent friction".

My experience with my hitch cord using the Rope Wrench on a long descent, maybe 60 or 70 feet or so, was that the further I dropped the tighter my hitch got and the more effort it took me to get it to break free. It took more effort, but the plus side was that it made me feel safer or more secure knowing that it would definitely hold me on the rope like that. It's possible that it was all the result of choice of rope and hitch cord combination, but I don't really believe that.

So far I've only gotten a few climbs in with my Hitch Hiker, on some shorter 20 to 30 foot climbs, approximately. So far the Hitch Hiker releases almost too easily for my taste; as you say it takes some time to dial it in. My point here though, is that for the relatively short descents I've had to take with the Hitch Hiker so far, the friction I experienced in the hitch cord did seem very consistent. I may have the chance to climb some slightly taller trees in the near future, maybe 60 or 70 feet high, so I look forward to the opportunity to see if the Hitch Hiker maintains its same amount of friction on my hitch cord for those longer descents.

I know Kevin Bingham has probably said this before, but in defense of his Rope Wrench I think it's possible to fairly quickly switch over to DdRT with the Rope Wrench just by popping out the SLIC pin and letting the Rope Wrench hang there off of a triple attachment pulley. Some guys (YoYo Man?) have created a setup that also allows for a quick detachment of the Rope Wrench tether from the triple attachment pulley.

I guess the people that like the Hitch Hiker argue that those are extra steps that do not need to be taken when using the Hitch Hiker. As I still have so little climbing time on the Hitch Hiker, I cannot yet form an opinion as to which one I like better. Maybe I've said all of this before earlier in this thread, I'm not sure. I'm just really, really glad to have come along into the climbing world at precisely the right time to have two such great tools available, invented in the very recent past. Just amazing.

CurSedVoyce, thanks for the comments about how you change over from SRT to DdRT and back again, as you wish to. A question I have for you is whether you use friction savers at the point where you switch to DdRT, and how much that affects the smoothness of the transition? I'm imagining climbing all the way up to an SRT choke point, lanyarding off while you do the changeover, and installing a ring and ring friction saver at that point before dropping back down to work DdRT. I'm a relatively new climber, so please go easy on me if this is a dumb question.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Tim
 
For me, 300 lbs ( all geared up) the HH w/ BeeLine. 6 or 7 wraps with 7/16 Samson Kern or 1/2" Arbor Plex. It works great. When descending srt I have to apply about twice the force to release the hitch as drt. But that isn't a big deal as drt I don't think I'm applying 10 lbs of force " pull" to get the hitch to release. The job I did on Sunday I base tied to do most of the work. Then had the customer ( he Wanted to help) untie after I took the top out of the last tree. Then I ran the slack thru and chocked the tree with a running bowline so that as I was blocking down I had a 2 nd line attached/ quick escape line that I could easily move down the tree as I descended.
That is one of the strongest selling points for me with the HH. It is a stand alone device like a GriGri, Rig or ID. But more secure in many ways. I've never used a RW. But then I don't plan to. However everyone needs to figure out what they like the best.
 
I've descended 60-70' with the HH, and never noticed any progressive tightening at all, but I'm 120 (yes, I've put on some weight lately...;) ) I think I have 5 wraps one braid, maybe 6 beeline and XTC. I've yet to try it on my Tachyon
When descending, I do like I'm rapelling, tend the hitch with one hand and hold the rope with my other hand down by my butt, juuust in case.

Jake, give yourself some time on your new HH, it takes time to 'marry' your rope, hitch cord, wraps and weight :)
 
Tim_B. said:
CurSedVoyce, thanks for the comments about how you change over from SRT to DdRT and back again, as you wish to. A question I have for you is whether you use friction savers at the point where you switch to DdRT, and how much that affects the smoothness of the transition? I'm imagining climbing all the way up to an SRT choke point, lanyarding off while you do the changeover, and installing a ring and ring friction saver at that point before dropping back down to work DdRT. I'm a relatively new climber, so please go easy on me if this is a dumb question.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Tim
Click to expand...
Not a dumb question.
You have it about right. I will access and work my way up the tree SRT to a TIP I have probably already shot in from the ground. Cinched off or base tie. I will keep going up until I am done with the crown I am tied into SRT even when I move past my original TIP in most cases. I have a thing for really high central TIPs :D
Then I will install a FS at my desired point and switch to Ddrt. I move about the canopy Ddrt until I need a redirect. I choose a point I will come back to during my climb. Cinch off the working end at that point. Redirect my HH through a crotch or FC. Keep moving or adding redirects as desired. Then I return to my point I cinched off. Return to Ddrt (especially if I need to ascend just a bit). Swing about and repeat and repeat.
The FS can be pulled and reset any time during the climb on spreading canopies. This method saves a ton of up and down and friction when worked with a good climb plan. And I do not need to add MA into the system with a revolver on limb walk returns. Fact is.. I just pull myself back up SRT most the time. I wear a pantin most the time anyway if I need some assist.
I also own a Wraptor. I can ascend SRT with that just tied into the ring. Then untie from the Wraptor and add a biner to get to work. No Ddrt at the Wraptor and doing this keeps my gear close to the tie in ring on the devise. The HH compliments it really well. Back on Ddrt and a HC, I would hang further from the Wraptor and you have to untie and retie your Ddrt system. Now I can just come off it SRT and get to work.
Basically what I want you to picture is a base tie in 50 - 60 feet up the tree below me in the crown when necessary.. Or back at the crotch on a limb walk. Make sense?
 
Try a Blake's hitch with 5 wraps using the line you climb with as a split tail. Just cut off a couple feet. I use it all the time, catches great and breaks easily. Use to use prusik cordage, but it bites to hard for me.
 
Glen these were posted by JB somewhere recently. The coopers hitch.
y6yrydyq.jpg
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