Any one use a Drill Doctor?

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Thanks for the fix Butch! Like every other woman, she thinks she is fat and ugly:dur:
 
Nick, are you using oil when drilling steel? Try using less pressure, and match the drill speed to the bit size properly...

No. Why would I do that? That would make perfect sense! :)

I guess it was just one of those things I didn't think about. I'll definitely do it next time I bring bit to steel!

love
nick
 
More pressure = more friction. Useless.

Just match your pressure to the bit size; it's not bad to use more pressure on a 1" bit through steel than a 1/8" bit in plastic.

On the rare occasion I snap a bit, I just buy another bit, not a whole set.
 
Also Nick, pick the right bit for the right material.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit

When drilling in metal, make sure what you have coming off of the bit out of the hole, the swarf, is preferably in a long spiral shape versus "chips."


If you are doing holes in thin gauge metal/thin plastics, step bits are a god-send, and as bad as I may sound here, Harbor Freight's cheap 3 piece step drill set is a great option(9.99 on sale).
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html
 
I think I have a pretty good grasp on what bit to use when. As far as swarf...I think I get a lot of chips because I sorta "pulse" the drill in when drilling in metal.

Steady pressure is better?
 
Generally. I'll pull the bit occasionally and put more oil in the hole. If you see smoke or the bit gets too hot to touch... it's overheated.
 
Once they lose the temper, they're soft and dull fast. And usually can't be sharpened for shit afterwards.
 
Too hot to touch with my finger is a mere fraction of the temp hss losses its hardness. I've got delicate hands though.
 
But... it IS above the temp where the oil works less. No reason it should get that hot.
 
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Thanks for all of the posts fellas. After reading this and doing some other research I have decided not to get a drill bit sharpener. I guess I will just buy new bits as I dull them but I am going to try and teach myself to sharpen the dull ones on a bench grinder.
 
I could give you another review. My son got me one for last Christmas, and it still sits in the box. I go slow, and use plenty of oil, so my bits really don't get dull all that much.

The had bits on sale for twenty some bucks for a whole index from tiny to 1/2". I bought a few sets, and the biggest problem is they are so hard they break before they dull. Tractor Supply cheap crap. They really do cut well though, and for that price you can just replace them.
 
I bet those cheap drill bit sets are made in China. All the cheapos here are. We do have some American tool imports, if you like Black and Decker. Maybe that is made in China too now?
 
It is getting harder and harder to find something made in the US. I got my son a Craftsman high tension hacksaw a few years back, and it broke just tensioning the blade. I have a Sears saw I have had for 30 years, and it is a good one.

I looked the hacksaws at Sears over when I was Christmas shopping, thinking about getting my son a replacement. They had 3 or 4 models. All pieces of crap, not worth taking home.
 
A lot of people forget that when using small bits you have to keep your speed up else you snap them .

On larger bits in deep holes don't play it .Either pull a chip or back off .The metal chips pulls the heat out of the part and off the tool .

Most important on a twist drill just like a chainsaw chain ,keep it sharp .You'll have a lot less problems with a sharp bit as opposed to a dull one .Most standard bits are 118 degrees included angle .They aren't that tough to hard sharped but just like a saw chain it comes with practice .
 
Another thing ,tid bit so speak.On larger holes you are a lot better off to step drill it .Say a 1" hole .Pilot it in with a 1/4" inch,then a 3/8" etc . On 460 Ford blocks it was a 4 step drill followed by a reamer to final size then the tap . A reamer makes a round hole but a drill in reality is not as round nor to size .
 
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