54" and full comp?

[Cut4fun]

I have actually set a guy up with 20" loops in full skip. Reason was he insisted on 20" 3/8 full chisel chain on a 49cc Partner 500 for cutting hardwoods used for firewood. I was figuring it had to be easier on the little motor with a full bite.

He loves the set up.

 

[cory]

Yeah, I should, give me and my 395 a treat.

 

[Al Smith]

Matter of fact, B, does anybody east of the Mississippi use full chisel?

Full chisel meaning round or square ? Round yes square seldom .

Almost no one but occasional users run semi chisel .

 

[cory]

Well, I bought another 100' of full comp. Just posting to tell of the great price I got at Madsens- $259 vs couple other quotes of $339!

 

[flushcut]

Nice!

 

[Burnham]

Well, I bought another 100' of full comp. Just posting to tell of the great price I got at Madsens- $259 vs couple other quotes of $339!

I'm so sorry for you...buy a case of files, too?

 

[cory]

Now, now, don't throw cold water on it, I can't miss what I've never had.

Btw, B, are you a Madsens guy as I gather they are big in the PNW?

 

[HolmenTree]

Don't worry cory about the full comp, you'll do alot more filing on the full skip with alot more touchups then over the better edge holding full comp chain. I have a roll of full skip 3/8 just for my Husky 395-32". When that roll is done I'll never buy that quick dulling chain again. What little I use the 395 versus my smaller saws with full comp, the full skip is not all that necessary.

 

[cory]

3 cheers for Willard!!!

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I'm so sorry for you...buy a case of files, too?

Hands ache just thinking about it !

 

[Burnham]

Don't worry cory about the full comp, you'll do alot more filing on the full skip with alot more touchups then over the better edge holding full comp chain. I have a roll of full skip 3/8 just for my Husky 395-32". When that roll is done I'll never buy that quick dulling chain again. What little I use the 395 versus my smaller saws with full comp, the full skip is not all that necessary.

Willard is worth listening to whenever he passes on the hard-won experience of long years felling and bucking. That noted, I ignore about 50% of what he says because it doesn't apply in my world . I'd advise others to be at least a smidge sceptical as well. He cuts on some nasty sandy ground, in winter temps that kill viruses .

Sorry, Willard. I really do admire your skill and wisdom. But full skip is not fast dulling in all conditions. Making blanket statements like that (which I am learning to avoid as I grow older) is thin ice to skate upon.

 

[HolmenTree]

Burnham I'm not out to ruffle any feathers here, but when you say you have "only used full skip sawchain exclusively" I can only take your advice or knowledge on full comp chain as meaningless.

Sure the full skip chisel may hold an edge in PNW softwood, but your only one of the few on this site that are cutting in those conditions.

 

[SkwerI]

Willard, what brand is that full skip you have?

 

[flushcut]

I run full skip on all my saw 24" and longer aside from the 54" and that is because I got a good deal on the chain. For me it doesn't matter if it's full comp or full skip when I hit something it is usually a good smack.

 

[Al Smith]

Yeah it doesn't make any difference if you find a little surprise buried in a chunk of wood how many teeth the chain has . Like I said in the other thread I hit stuff three times yesterday .Managed to trash two loops of skip and dulled the hell out a loop of full comp .

 

[Burnham]

Burnham I'm not out to ruffle any feathers here, but when you say you have "only used full skip sawchain exclusively" I can only take your advice or knowledge on full comp chain as meaningless.

Sure the full skip chisel may hold an edge in PNW softwood, but your only one of the few on this site that are cutting in those conditions.

Fair points, Willard. No ruffles here . I only meant to point out that there are other opinions not in perfect alignment with yours, not at all to mean you are incorrect, period. We both tend to address issues from our personal experience base...as is normal. It's wise for us to accept the likelyhood that sometimes what is true in our own little world is not true everywhere.

Although it's not exactly accurate (I know I'm the one who said it, not you) that I have no experience with full comp. I've run it enough over the years to know I prefer full skip. The smaller Stihl's I've purchased for FS use have come with it...036, 361, 260. I've run that chain until it's used up and then switch back to skip. Worth noting I'm also choosing a full chisel version then as well, so there is more than one variable going on. But you are certainly correct, I haven't used it much relative to the amount of skip I've run.

Many users of smaller saws here in nw Oregon use full comp...fwiw.

 

[gf beranek]

The full skip chain was developed primarily for long bars to keep the amount of chips down from clogging the chain in the cut. The old timers here even broke their chains and added extra straps and drivers to achieve the same effect.

When clearing right of way I preferred the full skip because we dulled so much chain, and it was just quicker and easier to sharpen. I dreaded the full comp for the shear and real pain it brought on to sharpen when badly worn.

For cutting burl and slabs the full comp square chain is smoother cutting and by it requires much less sanding to bring the surface to finish.

Round chain gouges out the cut, even when it's sharp, and by it's not really the best choice for cutting burl and slabs. But it is much easier to sharpen.

There's certainly give and take with it all. All depending on what we are cutting.

 

[stig]

Burnham, you'd be hard pressed to find a single loop of full skip in Europe ( unless you look in my shop).
In the medium sized hardwood trees and small ( for you) conifers we cut here, full or semi skip simply has no place.

So you are exactly right again, we all work in our own little bubble, and what is right for us is not necessarily right for someone working in a different place.

Just like the bar-length discussions, this one will go on forever, and never be resolved because there is no single answer.

But discussing stuff like that still makes us all wiser, so it is all good.

And, Jerry, as a longtime burl and slab cutter, let me tell you that semichisel makes the smoothest surface of any chain, I've ever used for that.
When you remove the top cutters from every other pair and file the side to 35 degrees, you have a wonderfull chain for making a smooth ripping cut.

 

[Al Smith]

Well there we go again Now I think round chisel rip cuts as smooth as a bandsaw myself .Fact I ripped some big rounds this morning and marveled how smooth they were even if it was firewood .

 

[gf beranek]

Thanks for telling me that, Stig. I've never have used ripping chain, but have sure ripped some mighty long cuts. Logs, 20 footers with a 42 inch bar. Hours on end. The vibration was murder by the end of the day.

Ripping trees was easy in comparison because gravity helped a lot.

 

[woodworkingboy]

I was under the impression that the best cutter angle for ripping chain is zero or five degrees, what I have always used. During the early days of Alaskan mill slabbing, that concept developed. Certainly a lot of wood has been slabbed that way.

 

[Al Smith]

I filed some rip chain once or twice .Once wih the Grandberg method and once like Oregon does it .

It might have been just a tad smoother but it was slow as a snail .Lke I said round chisel at least to me is nearly as smooth as a band saw and certainly smoother the a circle mill .Wow ,now you talk about rough, that's it .

 

[cory]

... I've never have used ripping chain, but have sure ripped some mighty long cuts. Logs, 20 footers with a 42 inch bar. Hours on end. The vibration was murder by the end of the day.

Damn, that's nasty, Jerr. 20' with a 42" bar!!! I can't even imagine that, wow!!

 

[flushcut]

Strong like bull!!

 

[stig]

I was under the impression that the best cutter angle for ripping chain is zero or five degrees, what I have always used. During the early days of Alaskan mill slabbing, that concept developed. Certainly a lot of wood has been slabbed that way.

Read my post again, Jay.

What I was saying ( or trying to, anyway) was that you remove the top plates of every other set of cutters, then file those cutters at 35 degrees.

The problem about filing ripping chain at 0-5 degrees is that it practically makes the side of the cutter have a 90 degree angle. That translates as blunt.By using the method I talk about, you get a pair of top cutters that are 0 or 5 degrees, plenty of room for chip removal, since only every other pair of cutters are making chips and sharp sides on those "topless" cutters.