346 smoking
- Thread starter Cobleskill
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Cobleskill
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #27
It is the 50cc without a cat.
HolmenTree
Banned
A friend of mine brought his 044 for me to look at. Just like your 346 couldn't figure out why it was smoking with good gas mix and carb set right. It turned out after tearing it completely apart the crankcase gasket developed a leak from the oil tank into the crankcase. Toughest one I ever worked on.
Willard.
Willard.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Tom, the saw is running fine as usual, but smoking? Isn't that kind of an anomaly? I don't think that you mentioned any of the other things that go along with running rich.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #30
No, it is just plain running rich. I probably should have worded it different. I took the carb plate with the needle off today. Putting it back together the spring fell down in the saw. I tried to locate it, then I tried to tip it out. Ended up pulling the carb, still couldn't find it. Found it on the floor where it must have bounced off the cardboard I was trying to land it on. At least I didn't step on it. I love trying to get the spring, needle, fulcrum assembly to all line up and compressed. I think my fingers aren't as nimble as they used to be.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Hemostats
sawinredneck
Treehouser
Did that help any?
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
You mean it is possible to find the spring on the floor...wow!
Cobleskill
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #34
Well, the puzzle continues. I popped the limiter cap back on, anticipating taking it to the doofus dealer, and decided to see how it was running. Not running rich. Took it out warmed it up, and decided it was lean now. Tried finding the sweet spot. Doesn't seem to have one. I read it has 3 jets it runs on high speed.
I found I could screw the H screw all the way in. I know the rev-limiting coil stops it from screaming, like the old saws would, but does this sound normal? I know I will have to buy a tach eventually. I am clueless as to what is going on with this carb and I think the dealer mechanic will be too. A crack comes to mind. I wouldn't think a leaking Welch plug would be an on and off thing. I could talk my buddy in to buying one and swap carbs. I actually did convince him he needs a pro saw and the 346 would be a good match for his cutting.
I found I could screw the H screw all the way in. I know the rev-limiting coil stops it from screaming, like the old saws would, but does this sound normal? I know I will have to buy a tach eventually. I am clueless as to what is going on with this carb and I think the dealer mechanic will be too. A crack comes to mind. I wouldn't think a leaking Welch plug would be an on and off thing. I could talk my buddy in to buying one and swap carbs. I actually did convince him he needs a pro saw and the 346 would be a good match for his cutting.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Is there anybody around who can pressure test the carb? A dealer who can't do that shouldn't be a dealer.
Cut4fun
Redneck Chainsaw Repair
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,635
Just thought of this.
This is something a friend south of me had on a new 346 NE 50cc. It had a air leak around the throttle shaft area on brand new carb. Spray something that will foam around the carb and connections to see if it bubbles up.
This is something a friend south of me had on a new 346 NE 50cc. It had a air leak around the throttle shaft area on brand new carb. Spray something that will foam around the carb and connections to see if it bubbles up.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Positive pressure = soap water.
Negative Pressure = start gas/carb cleaner etc.
Pressure test the carb is best with proper tools, but a bucket of water and a hose to blow thru is better than nothing.
White clods is usually air leak in crank case/cylinder base.
Negative Pressure = start gas/carb cleaner etc.
Pressure test the carb is best with proper tools, but a bucket of water and a hose to blow thru is better than nothing.
White clods is usually air leak in crank case/cylinder base.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #38
So to update I tached it and set it to 13,900. The coil says 14.1 which is the cut-out speed so I read. It ran good for a while and then went back to running rich. I haven't run it much since I tached it.
I ran it low on gas and it started to race, so I shut it down. After I refilled it started right up and ran how it should (not rich) for about 10 seconds.
When I tached it I was on the rich side. Probably close to 1/2 turn. I read they made the threads finer so the adjustment takes more turns. It seems like it has a leak where it is sucking more fuel as the leak gets worse. I had it apart and blew it out - no dirt.
Anybody have an idea or similar problem?
Anyone know the setting you start with on the H speed? How long the warranty is for commercial use?
I ran it low on gas and it started to race, so I shut it down. After I refilled it started right up and ran how it should (not rich) for about 10 seconds.
When I tached it I was on the rich side. Probably close to 1/2 turn. I read they made the threads finer so the adjustment takes more turns. It seems like it has a leak where it is sucking more fuel as the leak gets worse. I had it apart and blew it out - no dirt.
Anybody have an idea or similar problem?
Anyone know the setting you start with on the H speed? How long the warranty is for commercial use?
Magnus
TreeHouser
Warranty fail as soon as you wrench on it.
I don't see why there is such a incredibly hype of rpm and setting them after a certain rpm.
It doesn't work like that. Each saw has its own best performance at a rpm unique to itself.
You can have 20 saws, perhaps one of them is close to another, but no two are the same.
Who cares if it can run in 13 or 14 thousand rpm without load...
When you load it it will drop to work rpm. This is were you adjust it to perform its best.
Setting these, I think you got it wrong. It has little to do with threads and a lot to do with the seat and head of needle.
I bet you have a hair pin needle! These have a very narrow adjusting curve. Most important on these is Inlet needle hight.
You need to check Main inlet needle. When the main intake valve open, not just the levers hight when closed....
I don't see why there is such a incredibly hype of rpm and setting them after a certain rpm.
It doesn't work like that. Each saw has its own best performance at a rpm unique to itself.
You can have 20 saws, perhaps one of them is close to another, but no two are the same.
Who cares if it can run in 13 or 14 thousand rpm without load...
When you load it it will drop to work rpm. This is were you adjust it to perform its best.
Setting these, I think you got it wrong. It has little to do with threads and a lot to do with the seat and head of needle.
I bet you have a hair pin needle! These have a very narrow adjusting curve. Most important on these is Inlet needle hight.
You need to check Main inlet needle. When the main intake valve open, not just the levers hight when closed....
Cobleskill
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #40
So I need a measurement across the carb body where the inlet needle opens? Where would I find that spec?
Magnus
TreeHouser
Look at the manufacturers site under your specific carb.
Put a tiny pressure on the inlet (I use a hose and blow just a little. Put some gas or soap water in the carb area, then you can see when the needle lift).
Also set it on basic setting. Then start up and run it in wood. Set it after best performance.
Never hesitate going up in rpm, four stroke on WOT with bar and chain mounted and clear up under load.
A strong steady idle.
Now you get that wonderful tach out when you are done and post results.
You could be really surprised...
Most 346 I set is not above 11 500 in WOT. More, they loose too much power in the cut + risk of damages.
Put a tiny pressure on the inlet (I use a hose and blow just a little. Put some gas or soap water in the carb area, then you can see when the needle lift).
Also set it on basic setting. Then start up and run it in wood. Set it after best performance.
Never hesitate going up in rpm, four stroke on WOT with bar and chain mounted and clear up under load.
A strong steady idle.
Now you get that wonderful tach out when you are done and post results.
You could be really surprised...
Most 346 I set is not above 11 500 in WOT. More, they loose too much power in the cut + risk of damages.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
It's not as simple as that .Just about every saw and every carb will be slightly different .Most likely you could change carbs and the adjustment will vary at least a tiny bit .Likewise has been already spoken to those factory RPM ranges may or may not apply to each and every saw .
Those are usually in reference to max RPM's no load .A couple hundred under that won't make any difference .Conversely if the engine has been reworked they don't apply either because in essence the engines basic parameters have been changed .
Those are usually in reference to max RPM's no load .A couple hundred under that won't make any difference .Conversely if the engine has been reworked they don't apply either because in essence the engines basic parameters have been changed .
Magnus
TreeHouser
In wood they perform best around 8500-9500 something.
Magnus
TreeHouser
A few I have seen around 10 000, but it is rare.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Provided you use good fuel in correct mix with good oil and set right, it should not smoke much.
What type of smoke indicate a bit were to start looking.
Sticky, oily, black is one. White or blue grey are two more...
What type of smoke indicate a bit were to start looking.
Sticky, oily, black is one. White or blue grey are two more...
Magnus
TreeHouser
White vapor like non smelling is the one that cause largest hole in wallet as it is usually a air leak leading to lean run and overheating something.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #47
When it first started smoking it was pronounced oil smoke. I couldn't adjust it to not smoke. I was ready to give up and take it to my not so good dealer when it cleared up on its own. Not a problem with the fuel/mix, as my other saws were fine.
After I set it with my bud's tach it ran good. It is now back to smelling like gas fumes, not really smoking, but obviously rich.
So when you have a warranty problem, does the dealer get stuck with bill, or can they get reimbursed from the manufacturer?
After I set it with my bud's tach it ran good. It is now back to smelling like gas fumes, not really smoking, but obviously rich.
So when you have a warranty problem, does the dealer get stuck with bill, or can they get reimbursed from the manufacturer?
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Years ago when my 076 froze up, the local dealer didn't even deal with it other than sending it to some Stihl main service center. The service guy there told me over the phone that he found a screw that didn't belong, allowing a full repair under warrantee. He was quite possibly just being kind.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
I've never wrenched a 346 in my life and have only ran a few which are nice saws BTW .So only on speculation on my part ,does that thing have a segmented oil tank which is part of the main crank case ?
If so occasionally on that type design for whatever reason the thing could leak around the gasketing and suck bar oil into the crank case .Just a wild stab in the dark .
If so occasionally on that type design for whatever reason the thing could leak around the gasketing and suck bar oil into the crank case .Just a wild stab in the dark .
Magnus
TreeHouser
My bet is you burnt up stuff in it. It could do well with a good workout and then check it over. Color of piston top and plug will tell how it has been feeling.
It depends on the problem and arrangement between costumer, dealer and distributer.
