sotc
Dormant hero!!
yeah but wildlife would forever be harmed in the widerness if you were to fire and engine there
yeah but wildlife would forever be harmed in the widerness if you were to fire and engine there
I use alot of boring cuts when I'm bucking logs.
Also helps in lining up my cuts to avoid mismatched ones.
I use it as a wedge as well.
I just cut through on the compression til it wants to tighten then leave
a few inches of wood til you bore in on the tension side and cut the rest of
the log. The wood you left can usually be tripped easily without fear of
pinching.
I could be wrong though.
I like to use a plastic wedge when I'm bucking. Is that bad?
Well,some times I wish I had a road map .i agree, ive wished a few times i had a wedge in a hairy spot
I like to use a plastic wedge when I'm bucking. Is that bad?
I keep wedges handy for felling but don't use'em much, I like ropes on residential jobs; plus the customer feels more comfortable when they see a rope in the tree.
My insurance specifies a pull rope so I put one in damn near every tree I fell even if it's a natural, just in case.
I honestly never use wedges for bucking up wood in a residential setting. Hell if I ever do get pinched there's a whole armoury of saws not far away. Plus the mini can help out now if need be. In the bush is another story getting pinched can fork up your day.
I have to say that neither method should be used to the exclusion of the other. I'm with Dave when he says you need to read the binds; that's your first step, and this gives you the information to base your plan of attack at each bucking point. If you just put saw to wood and go 'til the tree talks to you, you may have already limited your choices, not a wise thing.
On the other hand, you must pay attention to what the tree gives you as feedback as you undertake execution of your plan. Carl is absolutely right when he says the tree will let you know which way it wants to go...if that feedback coincides with your read and the approach you have taken, all is well...but if not, you must whoa back and re-evalute, make a new plan to accomodate the new information.
General ideas:
A certain amount of chain throwing can be avoided by keeping your chain tension just right. Don't twist the saw. Keep a sharp chain and let it work the wood, don't try to horse the saw. Be patient, take your time. Only commit as much bar as is necessary to release heavy tension. If you can tell that one side of your cut is going to stay put and the other is going to move, keep your cuts either perfectly lined up or shade the release cut to the side that will stay put. Keep your body away from the moving side, cut with your off hand if you need to to do this. It is usually better to start bucking at the small end of the tree, if possible.[/QUO
Good post Burnham but would add just be careful if you buck from the small end if you have fully windblown tree's that as you release weight that the root plate doesn't take the tree back up into the vertical. If your bar doesnt reach fully across the trunk do a vertical reduction cut (as long as there isn't side tension) and leave yourself the smallest amount of wood you can to cut as quickly as possible. Stepping your saw a couple of inches away from your compression cut towards the piece of timber that will move the least will give you a safety margin for pinching or throwing your saw.
Can be really interesting cutting windblown timber at times!