The question a dilettante ...
- Thread starter Maximalist
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
Why a 300' line?
That's my long shot line. I figure 120' is about the maximum I'll run into around here. That'll get me up and back down with a little to spare for getting spread in the canopy. It's also half of a 600' spool I bought. The other half is in a cube I keep for backup purposes if I manage to get a bunch of lines stuck. My regular line is about 150'(currently a spool of Zing-It, whatever length that is).
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I have a 400. In a cube.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
That's a lot of rope to deal with.
Connecting 2 ropes can be a good option, for certain situations. A 3:1 with a pulley works a treat for SRS if you want MA involved.
I think I use Petzl biner with much bigger built- in sheave than a DMM Revolver.
Ymmv
Connecting 2 ropes can be a good option, for certain situations. A 3:1 with a pulley works a treat for SRS if you want MA involved.
I think I use Petzl biner with much bigger built- in sheave than a DMM Revolver.
Ymmv
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I had a 400 1/2 line in a tub. Wont fit in a bucket.
When I need 400'. I need one with no fuggen knots in it.
I remember a certain tree that 300 feet was too short to use it as a gin pole. And if you wanted to walk the piece out, you could have easily used another 50 feet.
When I need 400'. I need one with no fuggen knots in it.
I remember a certain tree that 300 feet was too short to use it as a gin pole. And if you wanted to walk the piece out, you could have easily used another 50 feet.
Burnham
Woods walker
When you need a really long rope, you really need it 
.
200 feet plus was not an uncommon tree height for me to deal with working for the Forest Service. Sometimes, not often but enough to make you appreciate it, 400 feet of climb line was too short. I kept one 600 foot 10mm Sterling HTP for those.
For a throw line (BigShot launch), for sure you needed at least 300 feet. That much throwline is a bit of a bother to deal with.
.200 feet plus was not an uncommon tree height for me to deal with working for the Forest Service. Sometimes, not often but enough to make you appreciate it, 400 feet of climb line was too short. I kept one 600 foot 10mm Sterling HTP for those.
For a throw line (BigShot launch), for sure you needed at least 300 feet. That much throwline is a bit of a bother to deal with
.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I keep one long throw line in it's own cube. When you need to isolate a really high tie in or shoot it out across a gulley or over woods for a long pull or trolley set up, its invaluable. All the rest are 200. 4 (usually) total.
I also keep a couple old spares handy to leave a pull line in a tree or through rigging overnight as needed.
I also keep a couple old spares handy to leave a pull line in a tree or through rigging overnight as needed.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
Some of my rec-climbs I'd preset a throw-line in the tree and then come back later (a week sometimes) and then pull a climb-line through and do the climb.
Some of the first pitches were 175 to 200 feet. Properly managing those long lines is not a skill for the amateur.
A couple of times hikers spotted my throw-lines and pulled them out of the trees. Bummer.
Setting a line and isolating a good limb can take hours, half a day sometimes. That's why I chose to split the two procedures.
Some of the first pitches were 175 to 200 feet. Properly managing those long lines is not a skill for the amateur.
A couple of times hikers spotted my throw-lines and pulled them out of the trees. Bummer.
Setting a line and isolating a good limb can take hours, half a day sometimes. That's why I chose to split the two procedures.
Burnham
Woods walker
You are correct, usually not possible. Try, try, try yet again is the process. And use binoculars to see what is where.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
You can only do so much from the ground. Shoot for the best limb you can and cross you fingers you get it.
When setting lines at those heights binoculars are a wise thing to have in your kit, because the way it appears from the ground, by eye alone, is not always the way it is once you get up there and look at it.
When setting lines at those heights binoculars are a wise thing to have in your kit, because the way it appears from the ground, by eye alone, is not always the way it is once you get up there and look at it.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
Like B says. Try and try again...
Maximalist
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
Do you think this is a working option?
flushcut
TreeHouser
If the price is right it may be a viable piece of kit.
Maximalist
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #42
Today I saw a saw with a non-standard bar. What do you think this bar is used for?
stikine
Treehouser
Cutting in very abrasive conditions that would destroy a sprocket nose quickly. Volcanic ash for example.
Nutball
TreeHouser
Are they expecting volcanoes anytime soon in Russia? Isn't it about time for one?
stikine
Treehouser
When they salvage logged after Mt. St. Helens the fallers used hard nosed bars to extend bar life. Along with Kolve chain.
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Nutball
TreeHouser
Sheesh, 80k for a saw... that's a lot of rubble
Kaveman
Treehouser
Yep hard nose bars for cutting in crap. Whether volcanic ash, dirty roadside trees, or the shag bark cedar of my home forest, they offer one less set of moving parts to wear out or bind up. There is a fine line to tread with chain tension though, too tight and the saw is fighting the friction, as well as the chain eating up the bar, too loose and the chain will eat the bottom of the bar nose, and of course, throwing the chain becomes nearly inevitable.
That saw and bar combo, with carbide chain would be fairly common as a breeching/rescue saw with many American fire departments. Stihl used to sell a version of the 460 set up as a rescue saw in their catalog, although I believe it has been replaced by the 500i.
As a secondary tangent, I think the 500i as a rescue saw is idiocy. As much as I love my fuel injected monster, it's a bad choice of saw for the task. A properly tuned and maintained carbureted saw is two, maybe three pulls and ready to rip. The 500 needs two minutes to commune with the machine spirit before it's ready to work. Two minutes idling while people burn to death. And let me tell you, forcing the 500 to work before it's finished it's prayers will not lead to fun times.
That saw and bar combo, with carbide chain would be fairly common as a breeching/rescue saw with many American fire departments. Stihl used to sell a version of the 460 set up as a rescue saw in their catalog, although I believe it has been replaced by the 500i.
As a secondary tangent, I think the 500i as a rescue saw is idiocy. As much as I love my fuel injected monster, it's a bad choice of saw for the task. A properly tuned and maintained carbureted saw is two, maybe three pulls and ready to rip. The 500 needs two minutes to commune with the machine spirit before it's ready to work. Two minutes idling while people burn to death. And let me tell you, forcing the 500 to work before it's finished it's prayers will not lead to fun times.
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