The MS150 Has Arrived

[treebilly]

I'm no where near Cali so I toss them quick. Just one more thing to clean.

 

[Climbhigh]

So, I peeked at the piston through the exhaust...it all looked ok.

What might be causing the saw to lag on pickup, struggle a wee bit, and cut out when the throttle is let off?
Then it gets a bit cranky to start again.

I've tried popping the gas cap in case the breather was blocked, didn't seem to make difference. If I let it idle for a bit with just a little throttle the problem goes away.
It happened twice today while I was working.

The saw gets a maintenance cleanup every day, chainbrake cleaned, bar cleaned, clutch area cleaned, airfilter tapped out, sharpen if needed. Sparkplug is a little dark but not too bad...any ideas?

Sounds like you need to richen your low speed screw, assuming it has one ! soldering gun with a fine tip makes quick work of removing those plastic limiter caps.

 

[Climbhigh]

I picked up an ms150 yesterday and got to work modding it. In order to pull the carb to remove the limiters I had to remove the choke lever. This entailed removing the screw that holds the butterfly valve in place. Putting it back together i stripped the little screw (seemed very easy to do) I came up with a fix but remain worried that it will hold.

I need an IPL that includes the carb. Can anyone help?

I have stripped out those little butterfly screws before. you can " stake " them with modified vice grips or pliers. Some carbs butterfly screws come staked in from the factory, those are a real bitch to remove.

 

[treegongfu]

It caught me by surprise how easily it stripped.
I didn't see any one mention the need to remove the rod that the butterfly valve sits on to pull the carb when removing the limiters.

Maybe it isn't necessary to remove the choke rod but the choke control lever didnt seem to want to pull off the rod.
Hopefully someone who knows will speak up.
If it is a requirement be forewarned. Also once you remove the choke rod from the carb a ball bearing and a spring will fall out so watch out.

I self tapped a slightly larger screw and applied locktite to the threads and it works but I still want the part.

I used the saw today in a large white pine removal and it was amazing!

 

[Marc-Antoine]

I removed the limiter on my ms150 but I don't recall to have to pull out anything in the carb itself.
On mine, the screw is inside a housing on the carb body, covered by a small zamack part with a screw head print. A small aluminum pin in the housing acts as the actual limiter on this part and prevents to pull it out.
You have to drill the small pin (it's a little hollow under it, you will feel when to stop, just be gentile on the drill's lever), pull out the zamack part to clean the shaves, put it back in place and you can adjust as you want.

But maybe it isn't the same as mine, different market area and different parts. I know for instance that the mufflers are not the same, I can't drill a bigger exhaust hole as you do on yours.

 

[stig]

Are you sure about that?
Ours should be the same, and mine looked almost like it was pre destined to be drilled.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

On mine, the deflector over the real exhaust hole isn't screwed but electric-welded. I can't easily take it out (in hope to put it back cleanly after that) to drill the recessed area around the hole.
The saw was acting, no more power. I wanted to clean the muffler because I suspected some build-up inside, but there is no way to open it (the two halves are welded) and even I can't see the hole, hidden under the deflector. In fact the hole was plugged by carbon build up and its diameter was down sized from 6 mm to 3 mm. I saw that by opening a small window with a file on the low edge of the muffler, in front of the (supposed) hole. After that, I decided to enlarge a little my window and named it the main exhaust hole, instead of the stupid little hole from the factory.
Sorry, I can't show you some pics, my camera is dead.

 

[Bermy]

HUh! So if that deflector is welded, how do you get the spark arrestor out?
Mine the deflector and spark arrestor were held on by the same screw.

 

[treebilly]

My new 201tc is the same way. I tossed the spark arrester the other day and it ran better. Need a good rain day to tear into it and open her up. The deflector is welded as well.

 

[treegongfu]

Thanks for the help!

According to B Snelling you don't meed to remove the choke assembly from the carb and the choke switch will pry off so you can remove the carb.

I pulled on it as hard as I felt I shld and it didn't move.

Thanks again Climbhigh. I now know what you mean by "staking the screw.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

HUh! So if that deflector is welded, how do you get the spark arrestor out?
Mine the deflector and spark arrestor were held on by the same screw.

I didn't found any spark arrestor.

 

[stig]

Fi, European saws don't usually come with a spark arrester.

I have mentioned this before, the only way to start a forest fire in Denmark is to call in a Napalm strike.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Jts9suWIDlU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Mick!]

My huskys have 'em, or rather did, If you're talking about the little mesh screen on the exhaust hole.
If not......carry on.

 

[stig]

Sorry, Mick.
I was talking about chain saws.

Back in the early days when I ran huskys, I remember those screens. never seen them on Stihls.

 

[Bermy]

Well that would explain it Stig, no spark arrestor screen, no need to take off the deflector to get it out...
So, was yours welded?

Any thoughts on why mine is acting up like I described a few posts ago?

 

[Burnham]

Sorry, Mick.
I was talking about chain saws.

Back in the early days when I ran huskys, I remember those screens. never seen them on Stihls.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

So, I peeked at the piston through the exhaust...it all looked ok.

What might be causing the saw to lag on pickup, struggle a wee bit, and cut out when the throttle is let off?
Then it gets a bit cranky to start again.

I've tried popping the gas cap in case the breather was blocked, didn't seem to make difference. If I let it idle for a bit with just a little throttle the problem goes away.
It happened twice today while I was working.

The saw gets a maintenance cleanup every day, chainbrake cleaned, bar cleaned, clutch area cleaned, airfilter tapped out, sharpen if needed. Sparkplug is a little dark but not too bad...any ideas?

It looks like mine when she was suffocating by build-up in the exhaust. I can add few power in the cut and need to rev-up before touching the wood. I thought "she isn't old enough to begin an air lick or lack of gas by clogging the filters or wore the carb's membrane, so she probably can't breath well".

You are way more caring than me. I'm ashamed that mine seems to be related to the cylinder pic above !
Canola as a bar oil doesn't help for that.

 

[stig]

We keep the canola out of the tophandles, the pole saw and the MS 880.

We don't want the tophandles gummed up and the others sit for long periods without use.

 

[Bermy]

Thanks Marc...I'll figure it out sooner or later, but I will give the muffler a clean out and see if that works.

 

[BOTS]

Bermy you might want to put in a new plug, possibly fouled, its a cheap start to see whats going on with the power loss...

 

[Bermy]

Ha, thanks for reminding me of the simple fix!
Now...do I have a spare little plug in the toolbox?

 

[Climbhigh]

My new 150 will be here in a few days. Is there anyone that is happy with the stock performance or should I just do the muffler/ timing mod straight away ? are there any parts I should order to have on hand before doing the mod; gaskets, flywheel key ? thanks.

 

[r0ck1r0ck2]

apart from the spark arrester, i've been happy with it stock.

but i have no where near the saw time that Bermy has soo....

order extra chains and files.

 

[Bermy]

Spark arrestor, and drill out the muffler.
Seems to me to be all I needed, I was cutting through 10' Casuarina this week and that stuff is HARD.
I was not game to try any more technical modifications, beyond my skill set!
I ran my first one stock (other than the spark arrestor out) for one summer, then this year I drilled it, and BAM! It woke right up.

Sharpening the tiny chain is critical, yesterday I gave it a touch up in the morning, it did ok, but not wonderful then I touched up again after lunch paying a bit more attention and yes, it was much better. It's so small it's a bit tricky.

BTW I changed the spark plug and that seems to have fixed my loss of power problem, that and I have a sneaking suspicion I had bumped the choke lever a bit and it had been running on like 1/4 choke for a bit! The last time it started to lag I looked down and pretty sure the little lever was not totaly off before I swiped it with my hand.

 

[Climbhigh]

Ok thanks, I will run it a while stock just for comparison then mod the muffler. Good advice on the chain, I will be more careful sharpening than my usual.